Concrete Aquarium Questions

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SpmnE9zero

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 19, 2010
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Pittsburgh
I am in the process of building a new home. I would like to incorporate a concrete tank into the foundation of the house so it will be a continuous pour for the foundation crew. I feel this will help secure a stable and "leak-free" aquarium in a very cost effective manner.

I understand that it will take some drilling later on for plumbing, I also understand it will require being sealed off and also realize it will probably require a ventilation system such as an exhaust fan of some sort to help ventilate the humidity it will produce to the exterior of the home.

Can anyone foresee any issues with taking this route? I am new to the "large aquarium" scene and would like any input even if negative on this matter as it will be a permanent structure in my home that will be dry walled around and finished for a 6'x4'x4' visual tank with a room built around it for access to the rear.

Thanks

Shane
 
I would incorporate the holes for plumbing and drains into the design before they pour. Anything bigger than 1" is a PITA to drill and the bits cost a small fortune.

Are you wanting to put a viewing panel into it or just have it as a pond? If you want a window, which you should have then will need to be incorporated in the mold when you pour it.

It is a great idea but just plan it properly before it becomes a permanent fixture, changes afterward are going to be nasty.
 
Fantastic idea about incorporating the viewing panel in to the mold! I didnt think of that.

I was thinking I would drill the concrete after and sink all thread rods, then choose a very thick sealant (I am a project manager for an excavation company so we have some sealants that would have held the Titanic together long enough to get her back to a port) to place on the face of the concrete, placing the Acrylic panel on and using large washers and nuts to fasten it to the all thread rods. This will spread the sealant out as you bolt it down and then seal the inside corner as well with an aquarium caulk to ensure proper sealing has taken place.

But I think trying to incorporate it initially into the mold may be more promising... hmmmm

any other thoughts on this matter?
 
I think incorporating the holes in the back for plumbing up front would be better as well, but this would probably be a work in progress as I do not know anything about the sumps and or filtration system necessary to handle a tank of this nature as of yet.

I have a guy nearby who has 25 years experience in building large tanks, I should ask him about these topics before I begin so I can get a handle on all the designated areas for holes and the dimensions of them. This will be a life saver later on I am sure.
 
I would also like opinions on what set up (fresh or salt) would be better for my lifestyle.

I will not be able to test ph levels daily on a fish tank, my wife's, and 9 month old daughter's schedules will not allow it. I am a busy man who puts in roughly 11 hour days at the office, so my concern is, which set up would best suit my life style? I dont want to get myself into something I can not keep up with.

Is there a filtration system that I can build that will require less keep up than others?

What are the benefits for each set up long term and what is the difference cost wise per month between the two set ups?

No matter what, the fish being contained in this tank will be of the catfish / shark / ray families, whether fresh or salt.

I appreciate all the help I can get.
 
Salt is by far a bigger time sink - it's actually one of the reasons I stopped for a while.

I suggest you re-explore the idea of having it poured all at once. Building a form and pouring later is easy to do later, and it does allow you to change it / break it out if you ever want to get rid of it. Pouring with plumbing in already is going to be easier than drilling later 100% of the time. You may think "I'll just drill later," but I think that feeling will be replaced with regret when it comes time to do it.

However, there are things you can do to minimize it. Instead of using a ph test, buy a ph monitor. They run less than $100 and provide accurate easy to read results any time.
 
Go fresh with a large sump system. Salt requires daily attention where as fresh can be left for a few days. Sounds awesome. How many gallons is this bad boy going to be?
 
Great information guys thank you so much!
I have thought about making it a second pour so it is not a permanent fixture to the foundation, but directly on top of the foundation, this will make for easier destruction later on if I ever decided to do so.

I am thinking an inside dimension of 6'x4'x4' tall (not sure how many gallons this is). Which brings me to another question; how thick should my concrete walls be? I am planning on having them install rebar for extra support so I am thinking probably 4" thick concrete walls, any thoughts? I am thinking 3/4" Acrylic viewing panel should suffice, thought son this as well please.
 
719gal full but about 650gal realisticly.
The thicker the better for the concrete. I'm not an expert on concrete so IDK. Someone else can take that question. And the acrylic thicness will probably depend on the size of the viewing pane. 3/4' - 1" will work for a 600ish tank made entirely of acrylic so i think it will work. But someone who knows better will probably dissagree. lol

This would make a killer large SA/CA tank.
 
I am leaning towards a fresh water set up for cost effectiveness.

I am really interested in the iridecent sharks (catfish), a variety of other catfish, and a variety of freshwater rays. Can anyone tell me what I can and can not put together?
 
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