Confused by ferts

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cjam93

Gambusia
MFK Member
Sep 20, 2015
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Hey guys so I am trying to figure out these planted tanks because so far my 75g planted tank has not really shown a lot of growth. I am thinking I need to star dosing ferts as I believe my lighting is good. I have 2 java ferns, 1 ocelot sword, 1 anubias nana, and a handful of small s. repens. For fish I have 1 green terror, 1 salvini, 1 firemouth, 1 senegalus bichir, 1 leopard bushfish, and 1 clown loach. My cichlids are small enough they do not hurt or mess with the plants. I run an Emperor 400 hob filter and add seachem matrix carbon monthly.

So my question is what ferts should I be dosing? I was at first going to get seachem Flourish but then was told that would not cover all the nutrients I needed to dose. Then I looked at dry ferts and saw one place recommend a gh booster for plants, but wouldnt that be bad for my fish that prefer soft water? Also will the carbon in my filter pull out the ferts or will it do anything to hurt the plants? Finally will the ferts do anything to hurt the fish or hinder their growth or coloration? thanks!
 
Ferts will help with overall growth and healthiness of the plants, they won't bother your fish at all. I go with dry ferts because it's cheaper then a solution... It's best to remove any carbon from the filters because it'll soak up the ferts, and in my opinion carbon should be used when setting up a new tank or when removing any medications from the water.

I haven't used carbon in a while, only to set up my tanks then after 6 weeks I remove it from the filters... I've never used GH booster because I'm a big fan of Amazon Biotope tanks, the plants and fish associated with the Amazon.
 
I'm relatively new to planted tank as well.

But I know ferts are divided into macro and micro nutrients.

Flourish contains micro nutrients. Macronutrients are basically NPK (nitrogen, phosphate and potassium)

I am currently dosing the Seachem line as well and I think the dosing regime is easy to manage.

I start off with half the dosage as recommended as my LFS owner advised that the dosage printed on the bottles are for a heavily planted tank.

It is always better to underdose and slowly increase than to overdose and cause a lot of other problems.

I'll let you know the results of dosing in my tank soon. I stay clear of dry ferts as those are concentrated and you can easily overdose.
 
Another thing, are u dosing CO2 in your tank? It is one of the 3 important things your plants need (Light, CO2, Nutrients).

If you don't have a co2 setup, you can dose Seachem Excel, which is liquid carbon.

And remove seachem carbon from your filter. They just absorb the nutrients you are dosing.
 
Actually there's 4 main categories with planted tanks...
1) Substrate
2) Lighting
3) Nutrients
4) Co2

Once you've got these down the plants will flourish with healthy growth, so lets discuss these 4 things...

1) Substrate - Why is substrate important; Because you want a substrate with a high CEC ratio (Cation Exchange Capacity), a CEC substrate will soak up nutrients in the water and then slowly releases them back into the water over time. High CEC substrates would be Flourite, Eco-Completes, All Natural Cat Litter, ect... And yes people do use kitty litter as a substrate such as, Special Kitty All Natural Kitty Litter is the brand I mix in with flourite. It's 100% safe, it's dye and chemical free and has a high CEC.

2) Lighting - This is a major factor in what kind of tank you want, low tech/low light, medium, or high tech/high light. Personally I always go with T5HO light fixtures because it lets me put more focus on the lighting wavelengths and here's why...
absortionchlorophyll.png

The image above shows the chlorophyll peaks in live plants, plants have 2 chlorophyll stages chlorophyll A and chlorophyll B which peak at different wavelengths. I go with T5HO quad fixtures because it lets me use a specific lighting schedule, but the bulbs I use are important because they hit the peaks of the chlorophyll wavelengths.

Here's a list of the bulbs I use and my lighting schedule.... (front to back) 6500k, 420nm actinic, 12,000k white actinic, WavePoint ultra growth wave bulb.

8am front bulbs turn on (6500k/420nm-actinic)
10am rear bulbs turn on (12,000k-actinic/wavepoint-ugw)
2pm front bulbs shut off
4 rear bulbs shut off

This schedule gives a 4 hour burst of light simulating high noon sun light... Here's the wavepoint ugw bulb wavelengths...
ultra_growth_wave.jpg

As you can see the wavelengths line up with the chlorophyll picture, which is why I use them but they are only produced in T5HO.

3) Nutrients - Nutrients are important for every living organism to sustain life, Nutrients or Ferts for short are supplied in the aquarium a few different ways. Such as dry or liquid solution, and fish waste; Plants need these nutrients for a healthy life...

There's 2 classes of nutrients 1) Macro which is your Nitrates, Phosphates, and K-Potassium; 2) Micros which is everything in between like iron, magnesium, boron, etc...

Yes, there are people who have healthy planted tanks without the use of ferts, but that's because the fish supply the nutrients via their waste but that's a whole different story I'm going to avoid lol.

4) Co2 - C02 or carbon dioxide is another thing that plants need, whether it's a DIY co2 system, automated co2 system, flourish excel, and by fish "breathing". An automated co2 system is when there's a regular/solenoid, and a co2 tank that supply the aquarium with co2. A DIY system is what we call the poor mans method (I'm a poor man) where utilizing bakers yeast, and sugar produces co2 which us caused by the yeast using the sugar.

Flourish Excel is a carbon supplement that people use in place of any kind of co2 system, however it should be said that some plants have trouble utilizing excel and melt/die. Sum of these plants are species of Vals, don't know why they have trouble with excel but not looking into it....
 
I think it's important to note that Excel (or any other form of liquid carbon) cannot be used in place of Co2 in high light/par set ups. Tom Barr notes that Excel is roughly 30-40% as effective as pressurized Co2. In high light set ups, Excel is not enough to fuel the carbon needs of aquatic plants. This is when/where Co2 is necessary to avoid algae issues and growth problems. Excel is a great carbon source in low tech set ups, and/or as an algaecide.
 
Actually there's 4 main categories with planted tanks...
1) Substrate
2) Lighting
3) Nutrients
4) Co2

Once you've got these down the plants will flourish with healthy growth, so lets discuss these 4 things...

1) Substrate - Why is substrate important; Because you want a substrate with a high CEC ratio (Cation Exchange Capacity), a CEC substrate will soak up nutrients in the water and then slowly releases them back into the water over time. High CEC substrates would be Flourite, Eco-Completes, All Natural Cat Litter, ect... And yes people do use kitty litter as a substrate such as, Special Kitty All Natural Kitty Litter is the brand I mix in with flourite. It's 100% safe, it's dye and chemical free and has a high CEC.

2) Lighting - This is a major factor in what kind of tank you want, low tech/low light, medium, or high tech/high light. Personally I always go with T5HO light fixtures because it lets me put more focus on the lighting wavelengths and here's why...
absortionchlorophyll.png

The image above shows the chlorophyll peaks in live plants, plants have 2 chlorophyll stages chlorophyll A and chlorophyll B which peak at different wavelengths. I go with T5HO quad fixtures because it lets me use a specific lighting schedule, but the bulbs I use are important because they hit the peaks of the chlorophyll wavelengths.

Here's a list of the bulbs I use and my lighting schedule.... (front to back) 6500k, 420nm actinic, 12,000k white actinic, WavePoint ultra growth wave bulb.

8am front bulbs turn on (6500k/420nm-actinic)
10am rear bulbs turn on (12,000k-actinic/wavepoint-ugw)
2pm front bulbs shut off
4 rear bulbs shut off

This schedule gives a 4 hour burst of light simulating high noon sun light... Here's the wavepoint ugw bulb wavelengths...
ultra_growth_wave.jpg

As you can see the wavelengths line up with the chlorophyll picture, which is why I use them but they are only produced in T5HO.

3) Nutrients - Nutrients are important for every living organism to sustain life, Nutrients or Ferts for short are supplied in the aquarium a few different ways. Such as dry or liquid solution, and fish waste; Plants need these nutrients for a healthy life...

There's 2 classes of nutrients 1) Macro which is your Nitrates, Phosphates, and K-Potassium; 2) Micros which is everything in between like iron, magnesium, boron, etc...

Yes, there are people who have healthy planted tanks without the use of ferts, but that's because the fish supply the nutrients via their waste but that's a whole different story I'm going to avoid lol.

4) Co2 - C02 or carbon dioxide is another thing that plants need, whether it's a DIY co2 system, automated co2 system, flourish excel, and by fish "breathing". An automated co2 system is when there's a regular/solenoid, and a co2 tank that supply the aquarium with co2. A DIY system is what we call the poor mans method (I'm a poor man) where utilizing bakers yeast, and sugar produces co2 which us caused by the yeast using the sugar.

Flourish Excel is a carbon supplement that people use in place of any kind of co2 system, however it should be said that some plants have trouble utilizing excel and melt/die. Sum of these plants are species of Vals, don't know why they have trouble with excel but not looking into it....

Nice info mate! I've read that adding a layer of peat before substrate (soil) aids in the release of nutrients. Any thoughts of that?
 
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