Considering converting my 125G to Marine

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

Paullywolly

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 12, 2008
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Barrie, ON, Canada
I am considering converting my 125G planted tank to marine. I've been in the hobby for 20+ years and always loved SW, but avoided it, mainly for cost concerns. Well cost is still a concern (hello global economic collapse :irked:), but I'm thinking very seriously of taking the plunge!

I would go with a fish-only setup, or at least minimal anemone / live rock if it they be added without a major equipment upgrade. As my first tank, I want to learn the ins and outs of SW before getting into a reef system or anything like that.

I'd like to keep the entire spend to under $1000 including fish. I guess my question is: What's a good starting equipment list for a fish-only SW setup?

Also, I have read that you should prepare the new water well in advance prior to waterchanges (i.e. let it bubble away for a week). Is this absolutely necessary, or can you mix it up right when you do the waterchange?

Thanks! I'm sure I'll have more questions! :)


PS re equipment - My planted setup currently has the following:
- Eheim 2270 (not sure about model number; it's new, sized for my tank)
- DIY fluorescent light setup w/ timers
- Heaters, etc.

I know SW is an almost complete rebuild, but can I at least use the filter? I already know I have to get new lights.
 
well you may not need new lights. you said you wanted fish only, and fish dont need exspensive lights. A bit more on the lights would help though like the type of bulbs, ballast there run on, wattage, K color etc..

The filter is not the best for saltwater, but on a fish only it will do. I would get very used to cleaning it though, because this WILL be a regular routine in your house lol.

Id consider adding a skimmer, and going to a local Coralife dealer and getting there 125 model is more then fine for what your doing. There cheap and efficient, i always had good luck with them anyways.

Read up on your initial cycle and the methods used. The tank will need to drained, everything reshwater removed and used in another system or discarded. The gravel is a no no, and getting a small bag of live sand, with several larger bags of dry sand will fill your tank cheaply and quickly.

Live rock is not a must, but i will say you'll like having some. Its not normally recommened adding live rock little at a time after the tank is setup, so id figure out roughly how much you want, and get all of it, before you add fish.

My fingers are tired so ill let others fill in the blanks.
 
No anemone unless you get an outstanding set of lights. Everything you have is fine for fish only. Instead of a new fixture just change the type of bulb. Like Sweettang said a protein skimmer is invaluable. Your water changes should be mixed before but depending on the fish, the same day might be fine. Equal sallinity and temp a must. Filtered water is preferable to start with.
 
heh, i never prepare my water in advance, always right there. but i make sure its all saturated before i dump it.

the others pretty much covered it.

always make sure you have the right SG(Specific gravity is defined as the ratio of the density of a given solid or liquid substance to the density of water at a specific temperature and pressure, in this case, salt) i got lazy checking my SG, and had to drain and add 3 gallons of freshwater to get it back into safe range!

Solved my problems though, why the tank was pretty much dead. I feel horrible for letting my fish in that tank though.

Lesson learned: don't put asside water testing.

For the size of your tank i would highly recommend investing in a Refractometer, and an RO/DI unit. I would also get a sump if i were you, you're going to have to change that canister(assuming it is one) alot.
 
A not about sumps:

If your tank is not already drilled, assuming its not because of the canister, then you will have to either get it drilled by a pro, or buy a seperate over flow box. These are okay, but there is a lot of room for faliure. The best advise i have for someone in your spot is to get the biggest best skimmer you can get (hang on style) and let this do the most of your filtering. Use your canister as your mechanical filtration only. Some floss in it and change it every 3 days. Nitrates will eventually build up in the canister, which is why they are considered a nitrate bomb, and will leach into your water column, casuing major algae out breaks, cyano outbreaks and possibly even fish death. This is also not excluding disease out break, which is usually encouraged by stress and poor water quality.

RO water systems help produce almost pure water. This means its free of ammonia, chlorine, chloramine, pesticides, nitrates, lowers silicates and phosphates, copper, iron, etc....... The list is truley never ending. A 35GPD 4 Stage unit would suit your needs perfectly and cost an average of 200 dollars depending on brand. Most can be found cheaper. Things you should get on these units is a TDS meter. Total Dissolved Solids. This reading helps you gage the efficiency of your filter media, and also helps you decide when it should be changed.

A last side note to this endevour is to read as much as you can. Its hard for us on a forum to give the BEST sound advise, because in every situation, there is no such thing.. Having knowledge before you start is going to answer most of your questions. Of course there are things that we can aid you with, but knowing every detail of the system, the last fish purchased, What you changed before something went wrong, are the things we need to know sometimes, and this is the information that gets over looked sometimes.
 
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