Damaged Tank! (help!)
- Thread starter Warlock
- Start date
I have no idea why he would have done that. Fixing it isn't the easiest thing in the world, but it's doable. From reading up on this not too long ago for a 55 I have, trying to patch it isn't recommended as it'll typically just break again later. Each time it breaks, your tank's glass is stressed all at once and it's more likely to pop a seal each time. Note that everything below assumes your 90 is glass...I have NO experience with acrylic.
There are three ways you could go with this. No matter which one you choose, I recommend tearing it all the way down. It can be done without doing so, but it's much harder and you'll need some way to support the glass in a way that it's not flexed while you repair it anyway.
Method #1: order a new plastic rim for your tank and replace it. You'll need to remove the old one. Do this by getting one of the paint multi-tool scrapers from Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Simply slide it up under the rim from both the front and back of the glass all the way around cutting the old silicone away from the glass. Once you've done that, you'll need to pry the old rim the rest of the way off the tank. Usually it's easier to do this if you cut it in at least one place with a dremel. Next, clean away any residual silicone and prepare the surface of the glass with some acetone. Finally, silicone the new rim into place and let it cure for about 3 days before refilling the tank.
Method #2: euro-brace the tank and screw the old rim. Have a 4" piece of glass cut to go along both the back and front panes of the tank. Silicone it in just below the existing rim so that it runs the entire length of the tank giving it extra support and keeping it from bowing out as much.
Method #3: Create a new, glass center brace. If you do this, you'll probably want to remove the old rim per the instructions above, but it's not completely necessary I guess. Cut 1/4" glass into three sections. The first will be the main support. It should be about 4" wide and as long as the inside dimension of your tank. Two of them will be siliconed to the front and back panels to act as supporting edges and additional silicone adherent surface area for the main brace. They should be 4" long and maybe 1/2" wide. Silicone them in a way that you can lay the main support along the 4" edge of the one on the front panel to the one on the back panel without the main support going above the rim of your tank. Once they're in, simply silicone the main support in place and let it cure.
There are three ways you could go with this. No matter which one you choose, I recommend tearing it all the way down. It can be done without doing so, but it's much harder and you'll need some way to support the glass in a way that it's not flexed while you repair it anyway.
Method #1: order a new plastic rim for your tank and replace it. You'll need to remove the old one. Do this by getting one of the paint multi-tool scrapers from Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware. Simply slide it up under the rim from both the front and back of the glass all the way around cutting the old silicone away from the glass. Once you've done that, you'll need to pry the old rim the rest of the way off the tank. Usually it's easier to do this if you cut it in at least one place with a dremel. Next, clean away any residual silicone and prepare the surface of the glass with some acetone. Finally, silicone the new rim into place and let it cure for about 3 days before refilling the tank.
Method #2: euro-brace the tank and screw the old rim. Have a 4" piece of glass cut to go along both the back and front panes of the tank. Silicone it in just below the existing rim so that it runs the entire length of the tank giving it extra support and keeping it from bowing out as much.
Method #3: Create a new, glass center brace. If you do this, you'll probably want to remove the old rim per the instructions above, but it's not completely necessary I guess. Cut 1/4" glass into three sections. The first will be the main support. It should be about 4" wide and as long as the inside dimension of your tank. Two of them will be siliconed to the front and back panels to act as supporting edges and additional silicone adherent surface area for the main brace. They should be 4" long and maybe 1/2" wide. Silicone them in a way that you can lay the main support along the 4" edge of the one on the front panel to the one on the back panel without the main support going above the rim of your tank. Once they're in, simply silicone the main support in place and let it cure.
WOW lol thanks for that response! All that seems like alot of work though for an issue that isnt detrimental to the functionality of my tank. I was thinking a quick fix like something to brace it. Just taking ideas though, i really appreciate you taking the time to respond!
/edit P.S. had i known more about tanks before buying this i would have declined because it takes away from resale value. I also drove an hour to get it so was less inclined to turn down the deal. $200 for a 90 gallon glass tank and a pretty good quality homemade stand wood stained sounded good too me at the time.
/edit P.S. had i known more about tanks before buying this i would have declined because it takes away from resale value. I also drove an hour to get it so was less inclined to turn down the deal. $200 for a 90 gallon glass tank and a pretty good quality homemade stand wood stained sounded good too me at the time.
Robb gave you excellent advice on your repair options, I would definitely consider using one of those methods to make the repair.
I am guessing the previous owner may have cut the hole to use as a feeding port because he was too lazy to open the lids or had an automatic feeder installed.
What is the thickness of the glass panes for the tank?
It appears you already have this tank set up with water in it, correct?. Take measurements from the front of tank to rear of tank along the top in 3 different places and compare the measurements to see if you have any bowing of the tank. This will help determine if the plastic trim is decorative or functional.
I am guessing the previous owner may have cut the hole to use as a feeding port because he was too lazy to open the lids or had an automatic feeder installed.
What is the thickness of the glass panes for the tank?
It appears you already have this tank set up with water in it, correct?. Take measurements from the front of tank to rear of tank along the top in 3 different places and compare the measurements to see if you have any bowing of the tank. This will help determine if the plastic trim is decorative or functional.
Yeah I do already have this tank setup and running. I'm definatley going to take those measurements thanks didn't know that some tanks bow. I'm not at home right now but I think they are somewhere from a 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick panes closer to the 1/2 inch mark for sure
Some aquarium manufacturers' state that the plastic trim/frames are a necessary feature and do not recommend removing/altering the braces. I'm guessing that this relates to potential lawsuits but it may also be a factor in the thickness of the glass used and the dimensions of the aquarium.
My practice when purchasing used tanks with damaged trim or missing braces is to replace the trim. It saves the hassle of water damage to my home from breaking tanks, damaged equipment and lost fish.
My practice when purchasing used tanks with damaged trim or missing braces is to replace the trim. It saves the hassle of water damage to my home from breaking tanks, damaged equipment and lost fish.
Exactly. Some (especially older) tanks do fine without the plastic trim. Most of the newer ones need it though. Think of it this way: modern companies are cheap, right? So, if it wasn't absolutely necessary to make sure the tank was safe (and they couldn't be held liable in a lawsuit), do you really think they'd spend the extra money to mold a piece of plastic around the top of the tank when a rimless tank looks much nicer anyway? And if that's the case, why in the world would they go through all the extra expense of adding a crossbar to the middle of the tank? It would make a good selling point to have a completely open top without it (ease of access, cleaner profile, etc.). Trust me, the plastic rim is there for a reason. Save yourself a potentially huge disaster, and a lot of worry and just replace it.
I cracked the support on a 125 of mine. All I did was find a piece of scrap metal, aluminum I think, and bolted the broken brace back together with the piece of metal. Been holding fine for quite a while now.