I have a pair of discus that have laid eggs a few times. They first laid eggs 3 months ago in my 90 gallon display tank with other fish in it. Eggs were eaten. I put them in a 55 gallon tank by themselves. For 2 months they never laid eggs. 2 weeks ago I put them back in my display tank. Last night they laid eggs. Don’t get it? Would like to get some babies from this pair. Maybe put them in a 20 gallon tank I have?
Discus breeding
- Thread starter mr limpet
- Start date
I suggest not moving them and if possible remove the object with the eggs on it. I would also toss a sponge filter in the sump, filter, or aquarium to seed the sponge. Are the Discus alone in the aquarium?
I'd make a reinforced fine-mesh tank divider and sequester the pair in the end of the main tank.
This will make them feel more "covered" and they will surely appreciate the privacy.
When the fry are 10~12cm long, I'd move the parents to the other side of the divider.
This will make them feel more "covered" and they will surely appreciate the privacy.
When the fry are 10~12cm long, I'd move the parents to the other side of the divider.
I’d put them in a 20 tall and do heavy feedings of live black worms. That’ll kick it off. If you’re against live, you can just do frozen.
If they breed again in the main tank, leave a dim light on over the tank 24 hours so they can protect the eggs until they hatch. You can siphon our fry and try to artificially raise on egg yolk but it’s difficult. Better to move them to 20 tall and have them learn to parent raise
If they breed again in the main tank, leave a dim light on over the tank 24 hours so they can protect the eggs until they hatch. You can siphon our fry and try to artificially raise on egg yolk but it’s difficult. Better to move them to 20 tall and have them learn to parent raise
I've bred discus in a 20, but a 29 or 40 is better if possible. I think your bare-bottom 55 might work if you included some dither fish like a school of 4-6 small to medium tetras to make them comfortable.
I agree with the lighting and heavy feeding of live or frozen bloodworms. Small water changes to keep nitrogen levels down, use Kent Blackwater Expert in increasing amounts to simulate dry season conditions. (Meaning change 5 gallons, dose for 10 or 20) We have super hard tap water, so I used reverse osmosis water for breeding. Once eggs are laid, no need for more Blackwater additions.
After fish spawn, remove the dither fish, but it's not necessary until the baby discus start to free swim. After babies start to swim, gradually increase water changes with tap water and allow the pH to rise some, but not up towards 8 or you will have trouble with ammonia toxicity as you start to feed them baby brine or chopped meaty foods.
I agree with the lighting and heavy feeding of live or frozen bloodworms. Small water changes to keep nitrogen levels down, use Kent Blackwater Expert in increasing amounts to simulate dry season conditions. (Meaning change 5 gallons, dose for 10 or 20) We have super hard tap water, so I used reverse osmosis water for breeding. Once eggs are laid, no need for more Blackwater additions.
After fish spawn, remove the dither fish, but it's not necessary until the baby discus start to free swim. After babies start to swim, gradually increase water changes with tap water and allow the pH to rise some, but not up towards 8 or you will have trouble with ammonia toxicity as you start to feed them baby brine or chopped meaty foods.