DIY 3D Backgrounds

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dzjr1188

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Apr 29, 2011
389
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allentown, pa
:help2:Ok, I am looking to get information for myself and anyone who plans on doing 3d backgrounds in the future. I have seen a lot of people have had trouble finding a cement or concrete mix that holds up. So I was hoping people who have had good luck with backgrounds could tell us what kind of epoxy or resin’s you have used and what kind of luck you have had. I would like to make Styrofoam background but haven’t found a answer to exactly what works or what doesn’t. So please post any good or bad experiences you have had with backgrounds or just epoxy, resin, cement or concrete in fish tanks.:feedback:
 
Have you heard of this stuff:

great-stuff-pond-and-stone-foam-283064.jpg


You can carve it into anything and is 100% fish safe without any sort of sealant. I think a lot of people don't use it because they just simply don't know about it. That's what I would use as a base.
 
I've done several using the styrofoam covered in quickcrete. The oldest is now 8 years old and I've not seen any deterioration of the concrete. I did several layers of a very thin/soupy mixture and allowed it to cure for several days to a week after the final coat. I would mist it down multiple times per day during this process. And then cycled the tank with salt water for another 2 weeks doing daily water changes.
 
I've done several using the styrofoam covered in quickcrete. The oldest is now 8 years old and I've not seen any deterioration of the concrete. I did several layers of a very thin/soupy mixture and allowed it to cure for several days to a week after the final coat. I would mist it down multiple times per day during this process. And then cycled the tank with salt water for another 2 weeks doing daily water changes.

When you say salt water, what kind of salt water exactly?
 
I used water softener salt. the whole idea is to help soften the water and lower the concrete's ability to buffer the pH. I would do 2 cups of salt per 10 gallons of water, do some 50% water changes, and then at the end of the process when the concrete is cured and no longer buffering the pH i do 3 100% water changes.
 
As mentioned cure time is a big factor, also Sika Top Seal 107 is a great product to use but much more expensive then quickcrete but doesn't have the bigger fibers.
 
Sorry i didn't mention that, i just use the base mix, nothing with the fiberglass fibers. I haven't done one in about a year, so i don't recall the specific name of the product used, but it was basically the fine concrete mix with no rocks or fiber.
 
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