Up for sale is my custom built Cree LED fixture that I used on my 190g discus tank. This is an awesome fixture and puts out a crazy amount of light. I just really have no need for it and have gone back to a standard T5 single bulb setup. This is overkill for my needs. I spent about $600 building this thing.
Asking $300 firm. Located in Sacramento. I'd like to keep this as a local sale, but can ship at the buyer's expense (this thing is heavy!!). I will go over the details below. Best to see it in person to understand how everything works and how it's all connected.
The light fixture is a big and heavy piece of aluminum heatsink, measuring 7x36". I also attached a splash shield made from ¼" acrylic. The shield really isn't needed, but it finishes off the fixture nicely.
The LEDs are Cree XP-Gs. The fixture uses 12 neutral white LEDs (4000k) and 12 warm white LEDs (3000k). They are arranged in two rows of 12, alternating each color in the two rows. LEDs were soldered up using 20ga solid core wire, wired in series and in 4 strings of 6 LEDs each.
The LEDs are driven by a "Typhoon" controller that is becoming more and more popular with the reefers, as it's much simpler to use than the Arduino boards. The controller has 4 built-in buttons to control the 4 LED channels and brightness intensity and on/off times for sunrise/sunset effect. It also offers on/off overrides. All this is done on the board itself and you don't need to hook it up to a laptop to make edits to the LEDs like you would with an Arduino controller, much nicer! The lights slowly fade on in the morning, and slowly fade out at night. Each LED string is fully adjustable for start time, photoperiod length, and brightness. This allows me to dim or brighten up the warm and neutral whites to get the color mixture I like. The Typhoon controller also includes a RTC (real-time clock) so it won't lose your previous settings if you lose power or disconnect it.
And last but not least, the power supply. Everything is powered by a 24v, 6.5a, 150w power supply.
Picture of the fixture before attaching the LEDs (light bars and mounts not included)
This photo shows the true-life color of the LEDs
Power supply
Inside the control box (controller and LCD panel)
Custom made Typhoon controller
Control box and power supply
LCD display and 4 buttons to make edits
Asking $300 firm. Located in Sacramento. I'd like to keep this as a local sale, but can ship at the buyer's expense (this thing is heavy!!). I will go over the details below. Best to see it in person to understand how everything works and how it's all connected.
The light fixture is a big and heavy piece of aluminum heatsink, measuring 7x36". I also attached a splash shield made from ¼" acrylic. The shield really isn't needed, but it finishes off the fixture nicely.
The LEDs are Cree XP-Gs. The fixture uses 12 neutral white LEDs (4000k) and 12 warm white LEDs (3000k). They are arranged in two rows of 12, alternating each color in the two rows. LEDs were soldered up using 20ga solid core wire, wired in series and in 4 strings of 6 LEDs each.
The LEDs are driven by a "Typhoon" controller that is becoming more and more popular with the reefers, as it's much simpler to use than the Arduino boards. The controller has 4 built-in buttons to control the 4 LED channels and brightness intensity and on/off times for sunrise/sunset effect. It also offers on/off overrides. All this is done on the board itself and you don't need to hook it up to a laptop to make edits to the LEDs like you would with an Arduino controller, much nicer! The lights slowly fade on in the morning, and slowly fade out at night. Each LED string is fully adjustable for start time, photoperiod length, and brightness. This allows me to dim or brighten up the warm and neutral whites to get the color mixture I like. The Typhoon controller also includes a RTC (real-time clock) so it won't lose your previous settings if you lose power or disconnect it.
And last but not least, the power supply. Everything is powered by a 24v, 6.5a, 150w power supply.
Picture of the fixture before attaching the LEDs (light bars and mounts not included)
This photo shows the true-life color of the LEDs
Power supply
Inside the control box (controller and LCD panel)
Custom made Typhoon controller
Control box and power supply
LCD display and 4 buttons to make edits
