DIY Glass Tank

[haxjester]

I'm considering building a custom glass aquarium. The reason I'm choosing glass over acrylic is the cost (right now acrylic prices are 2x the price of glass around here), and over plywood because I would like to have more of a view than just the front. I've got several questions for anyone who has built a glass tank before.

The glass dealer offered to finish the edges on the glass so that they aren't so sharp, but she said that it will slightly round the edges. Would that be a bad thing to have done since it would reduce the surface area of the joints?

I've read arguments as to which way is better to attach the sides of the tank. Many say that the sides should sit on top of the bottom pane, and many others say that the sides should sit outside of the bottom pane. Which would provide more strength?

Should I use GE Silicone I, or GE RTV108 (which I have read is stronger for building aquariums if you want smaller seams)? I'm not worried about having small seams, in fact I would rather have larger seams for more strength.

For bracing along the top, would it be possible to brace the front of the tank with a long piece (running side to side along the top), and several cross braces, but not run a long brace along the back, so as not to prevent using any kind of HoB appliance?

The possible tank dimensions that I am considering are 96lx36wx18h (approx. 270g), or 96lx36wx20-24h (approx 300-360g).

 

[portabuddy]

i would not round them as you can send whatever you want by hand if you like. use ge silicone II without the fugicide/bioseal...


I desinged a tank for anpother member that was absolutly insistant on useing 1/4" glass, everyone seggested against it, it was a badd idea but with the braving that i supplied it worked. the only problem was that i guess his stand wasnt sturdy enough and the bottom pane cracked... but the desing worked flawlessly. and i think you can adapt it with no problem... and for the love of god use 3/8-1/2 1/2 if you can afford it... if it was me i would use 3/8 tempered.... so it would be bullit proppf. everything i build is over done and buillet proof...

and yes bottom ant top braving... its the only thing that kept his tank from blowing out... god i spent 3-4 full days walking him through it....

 

[bukster]

good luck on that one bro...keep me updated...and have you found anywhere around here to get plexi or acrylic decently priced or sized?

 

[haxjester]

Thanks for the tips portabuddy. First off, that tabletop pond looks like its going to come out awesome, been keeping up on that, provides some inspiration for trying different things with acrylic, good luck with it.

If I go with glass, I will definitely use 3/8". I do not want 200-300 gallons of water dumped into my house.

When that tank was assembled, were the sides set on top of the bottom plate, or was the bottom plate set inside of the sides?

The GE Silicone II is strong enough for this kind of application?

On the picture:
1) What is the purpose of this bottom bracing, the 2" strip? Is it in the tank, or underneath?

2)This is the bracing I was asking if I can do without, just the long strip along the back, so that way I can use HoB filters/overflows/returns.


bukster: as for acrylic the price that Jeff from Allied Plastic offered is the best quote I've gotten yet- $200 for 96"x48"x3/8" and he'll cut for free. From the sounds of talking to him, I think he would supply you with cutoffs very cheap, if not free. For the price on glass, I'm still waiting to hear back from several different suppliers for a quote.

 

[portabuddy]

I like the idea of useing actylic, and with avrylic you cant really do the bracing like that. it works a bit differantly, more like building a sealed box and cutting holes in the top.

and keep in mind that this design is for a unsafe 1/4" tank with as much bracing to prevent blowouts as posable....


you can get rid of the bottom braces and they topones too but i really wouldnt, because they are convinient. you can easly rest a glass top on it or lights, whatever, it gives you a lip to work with.

 

[tunerX]

I heard that the RTV108 was also stronger, but I also heard it is the same composition as GE Silicone I, but the RTV108 is for commercial applications.

From working as a systems engineer we use RTV108 to seal our electronic components on some chips and cards that need to be removeable but still handle vibration and moisture. GE Silicone I was never even an option. RTV162 is also used but that is not recommended for high moisture areas.

The rounded edges on the glass are so you don't get cut when working with it, and also to help stop the edges from chipping when working with it. The difference between the two is not that big.

 

[Fish Eat Fish]

I heard that the RTV108 was also stronger, but I also heard it is the same composition as GE Silicone I, but the RTV108 is for commercial applications.

From working as a systems engineer we use RTV108 to seal our electronic components on some chips and cards that need to be removeable but still handle vibration and moisture. GE Silicone I was never even an option. RTV162 is also used but that is not recommended for high moisture areas.

The rounded edges on the glass are so you don't get cut when working with it, and also to help stop the edges from chipping when working with it. The difference between the two is not that big.

I agree. The idea of "rounded edges" is misleading. They are just simply not sharp and thus given a very small radius.