not sure what it is but it apears to be ick. ive only had these little guys going on 5 days now and ive just noticed this. it looks alot worse in person. are my fish gonna die ? should i take them back? i have 14 days. 
do my fish have ick
- Thread starter jok3rman52091
- Start date
Looks like it. If u can take it back. If not bump the temp to high 80s even low 90s. It's prob in your substrate and filter aswell. But just return it to save you the trouble
I was just reading up on it and it deffanitly looks like it to me as well. i read to bump up the temp. is 81 gonna be good or should i go a bit higher. im gonna go talk to the pet store tomorrow and see what they wanna do. either refund me and ill try to treat it or they supply the treatment. im by no means a pro at this but this was a brand new tank no other fish in it till i put these guys in there. so i dont see how it could have been somthing i did. rinced everything with water before i put it in the tank and my tank was running for 5 days before i put fish in.
Welcome aboard
You will be facing another challenge because your aquarium is not cycled. Your EBA has ich and you are now doing a fish in cycle.
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/fish-in-cycle.743226/post-8377135
https://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/threads/fish-in-cycle.724789/
There’s also no point in taking it back now, as it was already in your tank water it could have shed some of the ick into your tank that could infect current or future fish. You beat bet is to follow previous advise for treatment
The Tank is so new, the stress of being in an uncycled tank and a new environment triggered the ick. Did you put any of the water from the store you purchased the fish from in your tank? Slowly raise the temperature to the mid 80's and treat the tank. Since Ich is a parasite, once it drops from the fish it will be in your substrate, so you will need to vacuum your substrate as your tank is being treated. I hope the fish survives , some strains of Ich are very aggressive and hard to combat. Do not add any more fish to your tank until the Ick is treated and the tank has cycled. Good Luck.
Each ick spot periodically releases hundreds of young ick, so even if you only had the fish in your tank an hour, the entire tank would need to be treated.
Treatment is always about minimizing collateral damage, and minimizing is all you can hope for, the longer you wait the worse it gets.
Some meds kill plants some don't, some meds kill certain fish, but if you don't treat, all will die, so its a question of diminishing returns.
It doesn't matter whether you use a commercial medication or just plain rock salt, whether you use heat or not just jump on it.
With salt I use 3lbs per hundred gallons.
Commercial meds have directions on the container.
Heat speeds the ick life cycle making it easier to kill, but does not kill it directly.
It usually takes at least a couple weeks of treatments to be effective, so don't think one or two dose will work.
Treatment is always about minimizing collateral damage, and minimizing is all you can hope for, the longer you wait the worse it gets.
Some meds kill plants some don't, some meds kill certain fish, but if you don't treat, all will die, so its a question of diminishing returns.
It doesn't matter whether you use a commercial medication or just plain rock salt, whether you use heat or not just jump on it.
With salt I use 3lbs per hundred gallons.
Commercial meds have directions on the container.
Heat speeds the ick life cycle making it easier to kill, but does not kill it directly.
It usually takes at least a couple weeks of treatments to be effective, so don't think one or two dose will work.
I never use medications for ich with cichlids. I’ve treated hundreds of new world cichlids with heat and salt and have never lost one. Raise the temp to 86 - 88F. Buy a big box or bag of Morton rock salt and add 2 teaspoons per GALLON. Leave this salt concentration in the tank for 7 days. At the end of that time you should see no more spots. Then do a large water change to remove a bulk of the salt. Leave the heat elevated for an additional 7 days.
Because this tank isn’t cycled you may have to do daily water changes to keep the ammonia/nitrite in check. If that’s the case, remember to replace the amount of salt you removed @ 2 teaspoons per gallon.
The heat speeds up the life cycle of the ich, and the salt kills the free-swimming stage of the parasite. The heat and salt work in tandem to eradicate the parasite at a faster pace than if the water were cooler.
Remember that warmer water holds less dissolved oxygen so if the tank is overstocked or the fish show signs of distress, you may need to increase aeration by adding an airstone or something to the tank. Also, if you have other tanks in your house, know that ich is highly infectious and just moving between tanks with wet hands or equipment can infect other tanks.
Because this tank isn’t cycled you may have to do daily water changes to keep the ammonia/nitrite in check. If that’s the case, remember to replace the amount of salt you removed @ 2 teaspoons per gallon.
The heat speeds up the life cycle of the ich, and the salt kills the free-swimming stage of the parasite. The heat and salt work in tandem to eradicate the parasite at a faster pace than if the water were cooler.
Remember that warmer water holds less dissolved oxygen so if the tank is overstocked or the fish show signs of distress, you may need to increase aeration by adding an airstone or something to the tank. Also, if you have other tanks in your house, know that ich is highly infectious and just moving between tanks with wet hands or equipment can infect other tanks.
I would just treat the tank. I'd first make a water change of about 75% and treat with Cupramine, 1 drop per gallon. It's pretty cheap relative to some other meds.
What happens with copper is it binds to minerals and organics in your tank, so your dose invariably goes down to begin with. Using the ich spots as an indicator works perfectly. If any ich spots are still seen in 24 hours, treat at one drop per four gallons and the same the next day. After several days the ich should all be gone and not come back. There have been times when I've had to add one drop per four gallons for four or five days with no adverse effects. Once the copper reaches the appropriate level the ich will disappear.
I have had better success with copper than with other medications and it won't turn your gravel, silicon, or decorations blue. It is not safe with some invertebrates, like shrimp though. It doesn't seem to harm my snails, but I've heard it cleans up some other parasites as an added bonus.
One last note, don't use copper simultaneously with iron plant fertilizer. I did that once and it killed all my bristlenose plecostomus. If I need to treat with copper, I make the water change first and then treat. Plant fertilizer will have to wait for the next water change.
What happens with copper is it binds to minerals and organics in your tank, so your dose invariably goes down to begin with. Using the ich spots as an indicator works perfectly. If any ich spots are still seen in 24 hours, treat at one drop per four gallons and the same the next day. After several days the ich should all be gone and not come back. There have been times when I've had to add one drop per four gallons for four or five days with no adverse effects. Once the copper reaches the appropriate level the ich will disappear.
I have had better success with copper than with other medications and it won't turn your gravel, silicon, or decorations blue. It is not safe with some invertebrates, like shrimp though. It doesn't seem to harm my snails, but I've heard it cleans up some other parasites as an added bonus.
One last note, don't use copper simultaneously with iron plant fertilizer. I did that once and it killed all my bristlenose plecostomus. If I need to treat with copper, I make the water change first and then treat. Plant fertilizer will have to wait for the next water change.