Drip system question.

[Randys]

I'm in the process of designing a 240 with a coast to coast overflow. I'd like to use a drip system with the drain out of the sump.
Most of the DIY drip systems I've read about drop the fresh water in the top corner of the display tank. In my design that would be very close to the overflow. Wouldn't this reduce the affect of the fresh water? Even though the water dropping in the tank would be cold I don't think the volume would be enough for the fresh water to drop to the bottom of the tank and not flow out the overflow. I'm I thinking about this correctly?

 

[ragin_cajun]

No, top corner of the display is fine. I drip into my sump, the hose goes into the cage on one of my pumps. Either way is great.

Just don't put the drip line right next to the overflow drain in the sump--that'd prolly not work too well.

Ya just want the fresh dripped water to have some time to mix up with the tank water. don't overthink it too much.

 

[Randys]

No, top corner of the display is fine. I drip into my sump, the hose goes into the cage on one of my pumps. Either way is great.

Just don't put the drip line right next to the overflow drain in the sump--that'd prolly not work too well.

Ya just want the fresh dripped water to have some time to mix up with the tank water. don't overthink it too much.

Ah yes. Directly into the return pump would be much better. I didn't think the sump was an option because of the drain but I like the idea feeding into the pump.
You must be using a submersible pump eh?

 

[ragin_cajun]

Yep. I run a pair of Laguna Max Flow 2400's.

I did several things to my 540 to make it low maintenance, but the drip system is the one that's helped the most. I can't tell you how nice it is to not have to do a water change every week on that tank.

Changing out 300-400 gallons a week manually, all at one time, would be a big job. Having it drip automatically throughout the week is huge.

 

[Randys]

What else did you do to reduce the maintenance?

I've also got another question on the drip system.

My first sump was on my 90 gallon Mbuna tank that I built two years ago. At that time I learned to keep the water level in the sump low enough to leave room for the DT water that would drain down when the pump was shut off.
It seems to me that there's another concern on a drip system. Whenever the pump is turned off any water that comes from the DT is drained away. Do you need to locate the drain high enough so there's enough water in the sump to send back up to the DT when the pump is restarted? I'm guessing if the water level in the sump isn't high enough you run the risk of the pump sucking air?

 

[ragin_cajun]

What else did you do to reduce the maintenance?

I've also got another question on the drip system.

My first sump was on my 90 gallon Mbuna tank that I built two years ago. At that time I learned to keep the water level in the sump low enough to leave room for the DT water that would drain down when the pump was shut off.
It seems to me that there's another concern on a drip system. Whenever the pump is turned off any water that comes from the DT is drained away. Do you need to locate the drain high enough so there's enough water in the sump to send back up to the DT when the pump is restarted? I'm guessing if the water level in the sump isn't high enough you run the risk of the pump sucking air?

Yep, exactly. You have to be careful where you set the water level with overflow drain in the sump. It took me some trial and error. I used an upturned elbow with a short piece of PVC pipe, so its real easy to adjust the water level by shortening/lengthening the length of the pipe.

So the electricity goes out, the water from the overflows/drains/returns all falls in the sump. That water then all drains down to the level of the upturned PVC elbow/pipe. When the power comes back on, the water level drops as the pumps fill up the drains and returns again.

So that water level is low for hours until the drip raises it to normal equilibrium water level in the sump. Took me a couple tries to get that all set up. I put a piece of masking tape on the sump and marked all the different water levels, tried several different electrical outages.

 

[ragin_cajun]

To reduce maintenance.

The main thing I did was the drip. I also used a completely open sump with no baffles--it's very easy to clean if the need ever arises, and it's very easy to take things out and put them back in. no baffles or chambers.

I used filter socks instead of mats, or pads. And I used 4 filter socks. So I can go weeks without changing socks. When it comes time to change socks, they're super quick to change out for clean ones.

And I resisted the temptation to do anything that complicates the sump and maintenance. I don't have any reactors. I don't use Purigen anymore. It's just filter socks, pond matrix, and pumps.

So, that means there's nothing to do but change the socks, and vacuum the substrate.

 

[tomojsg]

having a closed loop system or wave makers to make sure there isnt any
dead spots 100% will save you the time of gravel/substrate vac'ing especially
if u have sand shifters thatll shift the sand throwing up any debrid or waste so
it can get caught the wave and get sucked out of the tank by the filters.

1. drip system
2. r/o system
3. closed loop system/wave makers
4. emergency drain drilled draining outside or drain in the sump with a float valve
5. automatic injectors

these things will help reduce weekly maintenance drastically.

 

[Randys]

To reduce maintenance.

The main thing I did was the drip. I also used a completely open sump with no baffles--it's very easy to clean if the need ever arises, and it's very easy to take things out and put them back in. no baffles or chambers.

I used filter socks instead of mats, or pads. And I used 4 filter socks. So I can go weeks without changing socks. When it comes time to change socks, they're super quick to change out for clean ones.

And I resisted the temptation to do anything that complicates the sump and maintenance. I don't have any reactors. I don't use Purigen anymore. It's just filter socks, pond matrix, and pumps.

So, that means there's nothing to do but change the socks, and vacuum the substrate.

Yup, that's the type of sump I'm planning too. I've already picked up a used 60 gallon sump on craigslist and rebuilt it with two large filter socks and a drip tray over bio balls. I sorta copied the design of the Aqueon Proflex wet/dry sump I bought for my 90 gallon. I couldn't be happier with the way my 90 gallon tank runs. My only concern now for the bigger sump (since I've decided on a drip system) is keeping the water level in the sump low enough so the bio balls aren't completely submerged.

The only maintenance I have on my 90 is changing the filter socks and water changes. I have never needed to vacuum the substrate. The water from the return pump flows around the outside edges of the tank and out the center overflow taking all the debris with it.
I just don't know if the SA fish I'm planning would be as happy with the water flow as my Mbunas are. I may be vacuuming the new tank. LOL

 

[Rmelz]

To reduce the chances of overflowing with the drip system you can just install NC solenoid valves on both the supply and the drain. I have my drip going into a pipe that empties next to the suction side of the return pump in my sump, that way the water mixes good.