Dropping pH and Hardness

[Peanut_Power]

I know there are several ways to drop pH/hardness, but I have a few questions for dropping your pH to below 7.0 and your hardness to soft. I know its hard to say for certain because of waters buffering capacity, but am still curious.

• If you use Almond Leaves, how many per gallon should you use?
• If you use peat, how much per gallon should you use?
• If you use peat/almond leaves/driftwood to drop your pH/hardness, but you don't like the tannins, will adding activated carbon negate the effects of it, or will it just remove the brown color?
• How often will you have to replace said treatments?

 

[ar0wan]

although said methods have been shown to decrease pH
I was under the understanding that the only way to lower hardness
is to remove your water and replace with RODI

 

[Cichlidgeek]

I know there are several ways to drop pH/hardness, but I have a few questions for dropping your pH to below 7.0 and your hardness to soft. I know its hard to say for certain because of waters buffering capacity, but am still curious.

• If you use Almond Leaves, how many per gallon should you use?
• If you use peat, how much per gallon should you use?
• If you use peat/almond leaves/driftwood to drop your pH/hardness, but you don't like the tannins, will adding activated carbon negate the effects of it, or will it just remove the brown color?
• How often will you have to replace said treatments?

Jer,
In my experience, generally one almond leaf per gallon is the recommended 'dose.'
I have used peat off and on for quite a while. I don't really ever measure it out, but rather just fill up a small mesh bag and place it in my canister filter. I like the black water look, so if it doesn't get dark enough then I may add another bag.
Speaking of black water, I have never used activated carbon to reduce tannins, rather I use potassium permanganate which is a very strong oxidizer and helps with water clarity. Always use caution with any oxidizing agent.
For water hardness, I would use RO or DI water that is non-reconstituted to drop hardness quickly. If you plan on replacing more than 60-70% of your current tank water at one time then make sure it's been reconstituted with at least a little mineral additives to prevent the pH from dropping out too quickly.
Just some of my experiences. Hope they help a bit.
Cheers,
--Brian

 

[Scatocephalus]

I know there are several ways to drop pH/hardness, but I have a few questions for dropping your pH to below 7.0 and your hardness to soft. I know its hard to say for certain because of waters buffering capacity, but am still curious.

• If you use Almond Leaves, how many per gallon should you use?

• 
  
  I've used almond and oak leaves and my experience is that they do a great job of adding tanins but don't do much, if anything, to soften the water. In fact, the only time they affect pH is when your water has poor buffering capacity (low alkalinity/low carbonate hardness). Otherwise a whole bag of leaves won't drop the pH.
  
  That being said, there is something that the leaves add which the fish definitely do like. It is amazing watching the mood and color changes that adding these leaves to the tank bring about.
  
  

  [*]If you use peat, how much per gallon should you use?

  
  Again, if you have hard water that is well buffede a whole bale of peat will not soften your water or drop the pH.
  
  

  [*]If you use peat/almond leaves/driftwood to drop your pH/hardness, but you don't like the tannins, will adding activated carbon negate the effects of it, or will it just remove the brown color?

  
  Supposedly the carbonates that buffer the pH and the minerals that contribute to hardness literally bind with the organic material removing them from the water. You should be able to use carbon to remove the tanins without negating the effects of the peat/leaves.
  
  

  [*]How often will you have to replace said treatments?

Whenever you do a water change.

I've got hard water. Very hard. The only option that I have is to run my water through an RO unit. I could use a bale of peat, and a garbage bag of leaves and it wouldn't budge my hardness or pH.

If you have pretty soft water to begin with, the addition of the peat or leaves is likely enough to get you where you want to be.

Check you general hardness (GH), your carbonate hardness (also referred to as alkalinity or KH) and your pH. We can get you some better answers once we know where you're starting from and where you want to go.

 

[Peanut_Power]

I need a test kit for sure. Thanks guys!!!

During the spring, summer, and autumn months I collect rain water in 50gal barrels and use it for water changes. I use 95% rainwater, 5% tap, just to make sure there was some buffer. Works out pretty good. I was using just the rain water and a little peat, and I managed to get my female lenticulata to really color up. Since I've stopped the rainwater treatment during the winter though, her colors and breeding attitude has dropped.

Thanks for all your input.

 

[Cichlidgeek]

Jer,
I think your use of the rainwater is excellent, but I am always cautious about that. Hey, if it works then don't fix it. Might I suggest raising your temp during the winter??? That, in combination with the 'poorer' water used, may trigger spawning when the 'good' water is re-introduced come Spring. It may sort of replicate the dry/wet season down in the tropics. Just a thought, otherwise whatever Scat said!!

--Brian