EBJD Facts or Fiction?

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purplecandle

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
May 29, 2010
355
1
0
North Carolina
Today I went to the LFS to get some ghost shrimp and while there I spotted a few EBJDs for a good deal. A year ago I put this fish on my "want" list when I saw them at another LFS for $60. At that time I did a little research into them, so when I bought one today I knew the basics of what he needed..tank size, tank mates and so on. So, he was not an impulse buy.

Now I have him acclimating to quarantine for a while. So, I am doing some more research while waiting.

All I am finding are complaints about this fish, However, most of those complaints seem to come from inexperienced fish keepers and wannabe breeders...such as, "they won't eat and they stay skinny and die" --Which could easily be IPs. Or, "He died after I had him for a week"--Which could be from an uncycled tank..

I can't tell what is fact or fiction with this fish. Websites claim it is a hardy fish, forums state they are finicky and die easily.

I just want to know all I can to raise this fish right. I do not intend to breed him nor will I sell him when he is bigger. He is mine, mine, mine:nilly:. I want him as a centerpiece fish for a 55.

So what is fact and what is fiction?

I also have another question. At the store the employee suggested aquarium salt to bring out his colors, However, I thought is colors changed a little when he gets older. Right now I am happy with his coloring. I don't use aquarium salt except for illness and I would not like to start using it now....So is Aquarium salt = color another myth?

Thanks for your time! Any advice (good or bad) is welcomed!
 
Just keep the tank clean, feed your fish a good varied diet with veggies, a good staple pellet (I recommend NLS personally), frozen bloodworms and shrimps are also good and make sure the tank mates are non aggressive if it's small. This will reduce stress on the fish and give you a better chance at successfully raising this fish, as they're slow growers so most other cichlids will quickly outgrow them. Salt doesn't do anything for the colors, it's their diet that plays a big factor in their color. They will change several times from baby to maturity. I got mine at 4"s from my LFS and he's about 7"s now and looks completely different. Salt will help if they're injured or sick though.
 
I think it would be a good choice for a centerpiece for a 55. As far as hardiness goes, they can be a little touch and go when they're little, but get hardier as they grow. It seems they do good from about 3" up. Mine eats just about anything and gets along well with it's tank mates.
Edit: People keep saying EBJD's are slow growing, but mine grew almost 6" in less than a year. That seems pretty fast to me.
 
Gatorxxx420;4775235; said:
Just keep the tank clean, feed your fish a good varied diet with veggies, a good staple pellet (I recommend NLS personally), frozen bloodworms and shrimps are also good and make sure the tank mates are non aggressive if it's small. This will reduce stress on the fish and give you a better chance at successfully raising this fish, as they're slow growers so most other cichlids will quickly outgrow them. Salt doesn't do anything for the colors, it's their diet that plays a big factor in their color. They will change several times from baby to maturity. I got mine at 4"s from my LFS and he's about 7"s now and looks completely different. Salt will help if they're injured or sick though.

I will look into that pellet, I have frozen blood worms and shrimps. I am glad to know the aquarium salt is not needed!!!
 
I have had my EBJD for about 3 months now, here is what I have learned from doing my own research and based on observation.

-they are indeed slow growers

-good appetite, however will choose flakes over pellets and prefers looking for food on the bottom rather than the surface.

-likes fish fillet

-their color will get dark when under stress, but generally they will attain more blue as they grow up.

-at 2 inches the male shows no aggession, and is susceptible to other, smaller cichlids picking on it.
 
Thanks for the info!

m1ste2tea;4775292; said:
-good appetite, however will choose flakes over pellets and prefers looking for food on the bottom rather than the surface. -I just fed him some mysis shrimp and he did indeed go for feed at the bottom.




-at 2 inches the male shows no aggession, and is susceptible to other, smaller cichlids picking on it. - Does anyone have a link with pics so I can see if I have a male? I will look around the forum now
 
m1ste2tea;4775292; said:
I have had my EBJD for about 3 months now, here is what I have learned from doing my own research and based on observation.

-they are indeed slow growers

-good appetite, however will choose flakes over pellets and prefers looking for food on the bottom rather than the surface.

-likes fish fillet

-their color will get dark when under stress, but generally they will attain more blue as they grow up.

-at 2 inches the male shows no aggession, and is susceptible to other, smaller cichlids picking on it.

Mine eats anything offered, he's not picky if it's in the substrate or at the surface. It's all on what you train your fish to eat and how. Since he will eat anything offered, I prefer NLS Thera + A over other foods since it's very nutritious and helps defend against internal issues.

It's hard to sex them at a small size, but from what I understand the females are far less common than males. Regardless of sex with these fish, they're beautiful fish and will darken in blue as they mature. But that's not just dependent on their diet, but genetics as well.
 
If of good stock, and fed well with good water they will grow at a decent rate(3/4" per month, isn't that slow for an 8" fish). Once they hit 4" or so they'll be able to defend themselves just fine, may not look for a fight but definitely not afraid to throw down.
 
Most of it has been said above. They tend to be vulnerable when young, both to aggression, and to (usually) internal issues like parasites. While some say they get stronger when they reach 4", I suspect it's just that only hardy specimens live that long to begin with. When they're young, the best help you can provide them is to keep the tank very clean so they don't ingest feces (and maybe pick up a parasite). The warning sign is mouthing and then spitting out their food. This generally signals some internal issue. White, stringy feces often follows. Most people treat using Parasite Clear. Good luck!
 
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