Eheim 2260 Questions

[macclellan]

Hi, I'm starting to buy parts for a large planted tank (225g) and since co2 outgassing mostly rules out a sump, I am a prospective owner of an Eheim 2260. The price of $250 isn't bad, and I've got the media figured out for $50 (Ehfimech for mechanical, Bio-bale for biological and some custom-cut foam I like from an LFS for the divider and to top the bio-bale), but the $100 quick disconnects ($25 and like $75) are a real deal-breaker. If I'm not mistaken, other Eheim classics include the quick disconnects; I know for certain that the wet/dry I used to have did (2026 I think). A canister, especially at this cost ought to have quick disconnects included. I've seen ball-valve DIYs, but those are still require screwing the PVC tube in & out, i.e. aren't exactly 'quick' disconnects.

Is there any way to get these on the cheap? How big of a pain is it not to have them? Any help appreciated.

For perspective, the last canister filter I bought was a Rena XP3 back when they were $99 at fostersmith, and that includes media and quick disconnects. I should have bought four!

 

[xdragonxb0i]

when i bought my 2262, it had a special where it the quick disconnect valves were included

 

[fishbum]

when i bought my 2262, it had a special where it the quick disconnect valves were included

My 2262,and all my other Eheims came with them too. Don't know why they would not be included in a 2260,considering it is a 2262 with a smaller pump.

 

[rudy1964]

2260 doesn't come with disconnects, 2262 does as special promotion, if you want to buy them they are expensive, for the intake alone almost a $100 here in Canada. I made my own and it cost me less then 20 bucks, this how i did it.
You need :
Two 1" male adapter insert threaded, some people call them barb fitting don't forget out side thread.
Two 1" nipple thread.
Two 1" valve thread, all these you can buy it at home depot.
One 1" union slip thread, big al's or any other aquarium store.
Teflon tape.
Assembly star with the union connect the 2 nipple at each end, fallow by the valves then the two barbs, and there you have it this for your intake.
For the output i don't boder, when i service i close both valves move your spray bar above the water open the drain pull the hose out of the pump and disconnect, don't forget to use teflon tape on every thread.

 

[macclellan]

Thanks Rudy, that sounds like a good way of doing it, especially foregoing the output side, as I'd only ever clean the filter while waterchanging anyways, which puts the waterline below the spraybar.

Got a pick of your assembly? I'd really appreciate it!