Eheim Canisters.

[Fred Schmidt]

Was going to buy another Classic 2217 today, but I Can get the pro 4 350 for $20 more. For those whom have used both, Is the pro much better? Same reliably? Better flow?
I couldn’t care less about the pre filter or bypass system on it, but the black hardware would be a nice change.
Thanks.

 

[phreeflow]

Personally, I’ve always had better luck with the Classic series like the 2217. The Pro series have been problematic, leak, clog, etc. Never had issues with the classics. If you have a large tank, I recommend the Eheim 2262 over Fluval FX7. Ecco series is okay too but for reliability, classics are rock solid

 

[neutrino]

"Everyone of the Pro series has got more fiddly and less useful." --from this video review of a Pro 4, which he doesn't like at all. I've had two 2217s for 15 years, only thing I've done is replace the blue course sponges this year because they no longer fit tightly. The downside to the classics is no media trays makes cleaning them less convenient, but there are work arounds to this, like using mesh bags to separate and remove media more easily.

 

[Rocksor]

I prefer the classics over the pro. You need to lubricate the o-rings every time you open them up, especially if you have hard water. The main o-ring on the pro is hard to remove, I have to use a dulled out butter knife to coax it out. The pro is heavier than its alternative classic simply because of the trays inside, and the fact that it's larger. The priming pump is another source of possible leakage on the pro, which I don't like so I never use it. I know that once I start to use it, it will eventually leak at the priming pump. What I don't like about the classics are the rigidity of the intake and output spray bars, I just end up getting the pro versions of those.

 

[syntaxx]

I prefer the classics over the pro. You need to lubricate the o-rings every time you open them up, especially if you have hard water. The main o-ring on the pro is hard to remove, I have to use a dulled out butter knife to coax it out. The pro is heavier than its alternative classic simply because of the trays inside, and the fact that it's larger. The priming pump is another source of possible leakage on the pro, which I don't like so I never use it. I know that once I start to use it, it will eventually leak at the priming pump. What I don't like about the classics are the rigidity of the intake and output spray bars, I just end up getting the pro versions of those.

Hi Rocksor , How do you prime it without the pump? I am always having a problem using it because the intake is loosing on the inside. When I don't press it the water valve is shutting off.

 

[Rocksor]

Hi Rocksor , How do you prime it without the pump? I am always having a problem using it because the intake is loosing on the inside. When I don't press it the water valve is shutting off.

You're probably filling up the canister with water before connecting it to the hoses, and both hoses are more likely full. The canister should not have water inside, the output hose to the tank should not be filled with water. The only thing that should be filled with water is the input tube to the canister. Gravity will naturally push the water down into the canister and push 98% of the air out of the canister.

Assuming the canister has been working (not brand new).

1) Make sure that the cleaned out canister does not have water before connecting to hoses in the tank
2) Disconnect the output spray bar from the rigid output bar
2) open the valves on the hoses connected to the tank over a bucket, and close the valves when the output hose to the tank no longer has water draining into the bucket. I'm assuming the output hose is above the water line. The water on input hose to the canister should still keep flowing before you close it.
3) connect the canister
4) open the output valves to the tank
5) open the input valves to the canister and wait a few minutes until it is full, and you see water go out through the output hose of the canister. You have to be watching the canister and not the tank. Use a flashlight to see the canister fill up.
6) plug in the canister. You might hear sloshing inside the canister head, which is normal as it tries to push out the air bubbles. If you hear rattling, disconnect the plug, shake the canister to remove bubbles, and plug back in.
7) flow will be low so give it time to get full flow before connecting output spray bar.

I've been doing it that way since '98 on all my canisters.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I have multiple Eheim pro II in use. they had a minor issue early on they fixed and my oldest one is running for about 18 years and the first 10 I pushed pressuride CO2 through by placing the output of the CO2 canister into the filter intake.

Mt second one had been running for anou 18 months lesst and the thrid one for about a decade. I have two more on the shelf. I cannot comment on the Pro 3 or 4. But given the recent trend of bells and whistles on anything, I would bet the older Eheim models are better.

I always leave both hoses filled and I always fill the canister before hooking it back up after a cleaning. I hit the pump button once or twice and its good to go.

 

[Fred Schmidt]

Thanks guys, I think I’m just gonna buy another 2217. Although the dark plastic would be nice, I don’t see the benefit of this filter for me. I rarely open my canisters with the pre-filter on the intake anyways.

I prefer the classics over the pro. You need to lubricate the o-rings every time you open them up, especially if you have hard water. The main o-ring on the pro is hard to remove, I have to use a dulled out butter knife to coax it out. The pro is heavier than its alternative classic simply because of the trays inside, and the fact that it's larger. The priming pump is another source of possible leakage on the pro, which I don't like so I never use it. I know that once I start to use it, it will eventually leak at the priming pump. What I don't like about the classics are the rigidity of the intake and output spray bars, I just end up getting the pro versions of those.

Do you notice any efficiency difference between the classic and pro 4 when they get dirty? Does the pro maintain any better flow being it’s bigger size?

 

[Rocksor]

Thanks guys, I think I’m just gonna buy another 2217. Although the dark plastic would be nice, I don’t see the benefit of this filter for me. I rarely open my canisters with the pre-filter on the intake anyways.

Do you notice any efficiency difference between the classic and pro 4 when they get dirty? Does the pro maintain any better flow being it’s bigger size?

The GPH on the pro is higher, and it holds more media. But both the 2217 and the Pro 600 are rated for up to 160 gallons by Eheim. So the slower flow of the 2217 is able to process the ammonia/nitrites at the same rate as the pro 600 is my guess. Neither seem more dirty than the other one, and I have pre-filters on both.