Evaporation Question

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Eric99

Gambusia
MFK Member
Mar 27, 2008
317
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16
Pittsburgh, Pa
My plans are to build a big Stingray tank in a couple years or so. It will have an open top with no glass sides. The dimensions will be about 6' x 12' x 2'. The guy at my lfs tells me I can't keep it indoors because the evporation will cause mold on the drywalls, etc. Is this true? If so what can be done to offset the evaporation? Will a dehumidifier work?

Thanks!
 
I have seen other people do this successfully with a dehumidifier ....

But I need to know as well, as I'm planning on a 10x10 in the basement.

Can always put a cover over it ... But I'd like to bump this for the same reason...
 
I would try to "moisture proof" the room/basement as good as you can, and if you can afford the $700, get an air exchanger, if not get a good dehumidifier.
 
I do not think 1 large tank is going to cause that problem. I have 3 large tanks in my basement and did not have a mold problem and I do not have a dehumidifier.
 
I have a open lidded pond in my basement. I lose water to evap but its not humid in my basement. Plus its near my furnance and the fan is always on in summer.
 
the only thing open on my 300 gal, is the 90 gal sump next to the tank, without a dehumidifier on, the house can exceed 90% humidity. i would suggest closing off the system as much as possible. i will be closing off most of my sump soon, only leaving a little bit of opening for air circulation.

my system is a 6ft x 4ft x 22 inch tall ray tank, and like i've said, the top is closed off with lids.
 
Hello; Been thinking about your thread. Seems to me that it will largely depend on the type of heat system you have. I have been inside of fish shops that were very humid. The windows and walls were soaked with condensation. It was worse during cool weather. That sort of dampness can create conditions for dangerous mold in addidion to physical damage to the house.

First a house with central heat and air. If you run the AC all the time during warm weather, that system should take out most of the excess moisture as a part of the process of cooling the air. The cool part of the year was a problem for me last winter. I moved into a house with a heat pump. Not only was it a very different type of heat than I had before, I did notice a lot of condensation on the inside of the glass on my windows and doors. I kept the temp down somewhat as I had not completed (still working on that) upgrading the insulation. The evaporation from my tanks, cooking and such was an issue. That was my first winter with that type of heat. I do not like it. I am not sure how I will deal with it next winter. I should have the house better insulated and may be able to set the temp up some.

A house with hot heat, such as the oil furnace in my former home, will dry the air out in cold weather. The extra moisture from my tanks was welcome in that house. Even with the tanks the air was often too dry and I had a humidifier to add some more moisture.

I happen to not like AC in a house. I am outside much of the day and do not like comming into and out of a cool house. I am sitting in the house with the windows open. It is hot, but there is not a problem with condensation. I may run the central air tonight in order to sleep better. It has been in the mid 90's here in TN for over a week now. I also upgraded a third trunk of six inch ducting with new pieces, new tape on all the seams and new insulating wrap. Three down and at least seven to go.

A house with a wood or coal stove should dry the air nicely.

Keep us posted on how you deal with this. I plan to set up four more tanks before long and will be in even more need of a way to deal with excess moisture.
 
i have central air but do not have it on often.

i have a gas furnace, and i get the same issues as you do skjl47, with moisture condensing on the windows and the furnace does not dry up the house.

i run a dehumidifier at all times, which i wish i did not have to do, but thems the breaks until i can figure out an alternative.
 
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