Exploring new tank beginnings...

[DN328]

I have been looking into acrylic options (and have been in contact with Chris at Midwestern Custom Aquarium). I will keep the exact tank dimensions as I've had before since that is really as long and wide as I go given my the rooms it sits in between. Below is my (really amateur) sketch of the view looking down at the tank to illustrate what I wanted - also helps me to think through some ideas. The one key difference of this tank (than my previous) is rather than a internal overflow, I'm looking to have an external/ghost overflow.

I'll have 3 x 1.5" bulkheads and run a bean animal. I will also have bulkheads drill for a closed loop circulation as want to keep the tank looking as "clean" as possible for the peninsula. I believe the overflow will be about 20"L x 4"W x??H, and I'm not sure how tall it will be, yet. I imagine the total water volume with a sump will be roughly 300gallons. I'd like to be able to get 7x turnover and have the weir and overflow box that can handle ~2100gph (considering head pressure). What I didn't like about my old tank was the water level was too close to the top, and I'd like the level in this one to stay at that standard ~2" with the volume of turnover.

As this tank is sitting in my dining and living room, I've been thinking through how best to have a clean plumbing design from overflow to the sump. I think that's fairly straightforward for a bean animal, but running the return split with a T and back out the same back side will be challenging to keep the plumbing looking clean under the stand and behind the end back wall. Also, I will have the closed loop circulation to contend with. This is basically what I had before, but there, all the plumbing was in the internal box, whereas most of the filtration and return plumbing will be coming out the end of the tank. I think this makes easier access for working on the tank, but asthetics is a close second priority, after function.

For folks having experienced with external overflow boxes, is there anything I should consider? Do you think the overflow box I've sketch handle the ~2100GpH? JK47 , I've seen some of your sexy plumbing and would love your inputs. Actually anyone or everyone that wants to chime in - you know who you all are ; - ) Inputs welcomed...

 

[jaws7777]

I have been looking into acrylic options (and have been in contact with Chris at Midwestern Custom Aquarium). I will keep the exact tank dimensions as I've had before since that is really as long and wide as I go given my the rooms it sits in between. Below is my (really amateur) sketch of the view looking down at the tank to illustrate what I wanted - also helps me to think through some ideas. The one key difference of this tank (than my previous) is rather than a internal overflow, I'm looking to have an external/ghost overflow.

I'll have 3 x 1.5" bulkheads and run a bean animal. I will also have bulkheads drill for a closed loop circulation as want to keep the tank looking as "clean" as possible for the peninsula. I believe the overflow will be about 20"L x 4"W x??H, and I'm not sure how tall it will be, yet. I imagine the total water volume with a sump will be roughly 300gallons. I'd like to be able to get 7x turnover and have the weir and overflow box that can handle ~2100gph (considering head pressure). What I didn't like about my old tank was the water level was too close to the top, and I'd like the level in this one to stay at that standard ~2" with the volume of turnover.

As this tank is sitting in my dining and living room, I've been thinking through how best to have a clean plumbing design from overflow to the sump. I think that's fairly straightforward for a bean animal, but running the return split with a T and back out the same back side will be challenging to keep the plumbing looking clean under the stand and behind the end back wall. Also, I will have the closed loop circulation to contend with. This is basically what I had before, but there, all the plumbing was in the internal box, whereas most of the filtration and return plumbing will be coming out the end of the tank. I think this makes easier access for working on the tank, but asthetics is a close second priority, after function.

For folks having experienced with external overflow boxes, is there anything I should consider? Do you think the overflow box I've sketch handle the ~2100GpH? JK47 , I've seen some of your sexy plumbing and would love your inputs. Actually anyone or everyone that wants to chime in - you know who you all are ; - ) Inputs welcomed...



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This is great news. I knew you wouldnt stay away too long. You should document the build. Not many bean animal builds to reference but tons of herbies.

Dumb question but could you have chris build you a wrap for the plumbing that will be exposed ? He does black acrylic wraps for the stands im thinking it wouldnt be too hard to do the same to cover up the plumbing.

 

[DN328]

Thanks Jaws, I knew I could count on you for some good questions. I thought about extending my tank by six inches and in essence having another internal overflow design, but he was hesitant (understandably) about that LOL. He did mention he could create a cover, but thought it wouldn't look good. I actually think it would look fine assuming we had a good method to secure it in place over the plumbing (and external overflow?). I think the plumbing could look descent exposed, but just considering my options while I have options.

The external overflow will be 20"L x 6-7"W x 8"H. I'm not sure for the width yet as I need it wide enough to accommodate 1.5" bulkhead AND clear the end wood wrap on the stand. So I have room to add unions and gate valves without hitting against the wood wrap. I told him I wanted an overflow that could accommodate 2100GpH with the 1.5" full siphon (I think that's max for that size pipe at full siphon?). Not that I need 7x turnover, but if I wanted to AND keep the water level at the 2" from the top. So we may lower the weir down 2.5". I hope that makes sense?

I will try and share as I progress and with the bean animal in this set-up. Keep them coming if anyone else has any feedback that I should be thinking about. Sorry about the looong post folks.

 

[bbortko]

I have this exact tank, 72x30x25 with an external overflow on one end. I went with 2” drains but if I did it again I would go1.5”, I’m running a 2900 gallon pump and my gate valve is significantly closed. It’s my first tank with a sump and figured I can always use the valve to reduce flow but have the ability to increased flow if needed but 2” is way to much and made the plumbing a lot harder and more expensive. I only ran beananimal for a couple of months when a bulkhead started leaking and I never got around to rework the plumbing so its a herbie setup and works perfectly. My only real regret is that I have a toothed overflow which forces me to keep the overflow fuller than anticipated but hasn’t been an issue in the 5.5 years I’ve had this set up. The overflow is 5x25x15 rounded to nearest inch.

Forgot to add that my overflow has a divider in the middle, doesn’t go allthe way to the bottom or top but it made plumbing a tad tricky, not sure if it’s necessary but the builder did.

 

[bbortko]

New 225 wide

Picked up my new 72x30x25 225 wide last and installed the background last weekend. Ran the beananimal style overflows, filled the tank and tested for leaks this weekend. Everything checks out and plan to tear down my 125 and move in the new tank next weekend. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747...

www.monsterfishkeepers.com

Here is a build thread I did, communication is not my strong point but it has a few pictures.

 

[DN328]

I have this exact tank, 72x30x25 with an external overflow on one end. I went with 2” drains but if I did it again I would go1.5”, I’m running a 2900 gallon pump and my gate valve is significantly closed. It’s my first tank with a sump and figured I can always use the valve to reduce flow but have the ability to increased flow if needed but 2” is way to much and made the plumbing a lot harder and more expensive. I only ran beananimal for a couple of months when a bulkhead started leaking and I never got around to rework the plumbing so its a herbie setup and works perfectly. My only real regret is that I have a toothed overflow which forces me to keep the overflow fuller than anticipated but hasn’t been an issue in the 5.5 years I’ve had this set up. The overflow is 5x25x15 rounded to nearest inch.

Forgot to add that my overflow has a divider in the middle, doesn’t go allthe way to the bottom or top but it made plumbing a tad tricky, not sure if it’s necessary but the builder did.

Thanks for sharing, man. I'll take a look at your build - you'll be another reference for me. Can you elaborate on why your toothed weir was not ideal? I would think that is fairly standard for an internal or external overflow. So your external box was 5W x 25L x 15H? I should prob read your thread first rather asking questions already answered LOL.

 

[DN328]

bbortko - our wood wrap is similar in that I have a 1.5' lip around the perimeter of the stand. This adds roughly 1.75" from the edge of where the tank would sit to the outer edge of the wrap. Did you have any issues with clearing the edge of the wood wrap with the PVC coming down from the overflow box? The overflow box I'm thinking is 20L x 5W (depth) x 8H - but may go to 6" W to make sure the plumbing doesn't hit the lip. Just being extra careful so I'm not kicking myself later.

 

[bbortko]

I had to notch the trim for my drains, if I had used 1.5” pvc I probably would not have needed to do this. The reason I wish I had gone with a toothless weir is it seems like they are easier to make silent, I was still able to make it silent but have to keep the overflow pretty full to do so which will make a beananimal setup pretty difficult.

 

[jaws7777]

I have this exact tank, 72x30x25 with an external overflow on one end. I went with 2” drains but if I did it again I would go1.5”,

I did the same thing. I started with 2 inch siphons but ended up with 1.5 inch. DN328 chris jokingly said we are all the same (mfkers) he felt i would never go near maximizing 2 inch drains and he was right.

Id probably do 1.5 again because it works, but part of me feels like 1 inch would have been better. Not sure if this makes sense but my gate is hardly opened i doubt i could get my pinky through the opening. Say something makes it past the strainer and makes its way to the gate i wonder if it would easily clog where with 1 inch plumbing id imagine the gate would be opened a bit more and not clog. This never happened just something that been in the back of my mind for future set ups.


Btw i really like the black acrylic wraps they do i regret not going that route... my wife still mentions it lol.

 

[jaws7777]

I was thinking chris could do something like this in black acrylic




The new tank will be similar to the old one ? Plumbing on the one side panel right ?