** Fact sheet SAPs** Please comment

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J-P

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 2, 2009
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Canada
South American Puffer (Colomesus Asellus)

Family: Tetraodontidae

Order: Tetraodontiformes

Class: Actinopterygii

Origin: South America: Primarily; Amazon river, Araguaia and Guaporé Rivers, Orinoco River and Essequibo River

Common Names: South American Puffer, Amazon Puffer Brazilian Puffer, Columbian Puffer.

Maximum Size: 2.5 – 3 inches (6-8 cm) tip to tail * (Fishbase reports 12.8 cm or 5 inches)

Temperament: Shy towards other fish larger than it, but is known as a fin nipper.

Environment: Freshwater to very slightly brackish.

pH: N/A ** consistant PH levels are more important than a specific range

Temperature: average 75F – 83F (24 – 28C)



Description: SAPs (South American Puffers) are one of the “least” puffer like of the species. They are highly energetic, some say neurotic.

Feeding: Of all the puffers kept in the home aquarium, SAPs’ teeth grow the quickest. A diet of 90% snails and 5% other foods (live shrimp & blood worms) is recommended. If a main diet of snails is not feasible, vitamin soaked blood worms will work as a supplement (max 30%). In order to keep the teeth in check a diet of 70%+ of ramshorn snails and or pond snails will work best. Avoid cone shapes snails as they may break their teeth on the harder shells. Larger snails should be crushed between 2 spoons to avoid shell splinters entering the skin of the handler. The high ratio of snail is to reduce the number of annual teeth trimmings necessary.


In the home aquarium: A South American Puffer should have at least 20 gallons of swimming room. A longer length is better than a longer depth. It is this writer’s opinion; that a unidirectional flow / current be provided in order to best simulate river qualities. A heavily planted tank will aid in overcoming their shyness. Open water and bright sudden lights may invoke their neurotic behaviour.
*It is the opinion of this writer (although not tested), that South American Puffers may prefer black water conditions and or dimmer lights. *

Diseases: As a scaleless fish it is important to remember that South American Puffers are susceptible to typical infections and diseases, but the medication procedures vary.

Difficulty:
Care: 8:10 (difficult)
Feeding: 6:10 (moderately difficult)
Water Quality: 5:10 (average)
Tank Mates: 7:10 (moderately difficult)


References:
www.**************.com
www.fishbase.com
“Drift of Colomesus asellus larvae in the Amazon River” Carlos Araujo-Lima, Daniela Savastao, Luciana Cardeliquio Jordano (1994)

J-P 2010



Please comment appropriately so that I may modify the content :)
 
Looks and sounds pretty good to me even though mine did'nt live very long. I think it was because it was not very healthy in the beginning.
 
It is extremely important to QT this species. They are very prone to ich &/or velvet when moved to a different environment.

If not fed a diet of 90% snails, dentistry may be necessary as often as 4-6 months.
 
Pufferpunk;4634076; said:
It is extremely important to QT this species. They are very prone to ich &/or velvet when moved to a different environment.

If not fed a diet of 90% snails, dentistry may be necessary as often as 4-6 months.

Thank you. I'll add that in.

I didn't really have the correct words in mind at the moment as it it a first draft. How do you describe properly from the nose to the base of the tail fin vs from the nose to the furthest end of the tail fin?

I think I have to contact IGF to get the correct and proper measurement rules.
 
ok.. so I got a diagram from IGFA..

and it is below.

1) There is length x which is, I believe, from the 2 shortest points on the fish. (the base length?)

2) There is length xx which is the 2 longest points on the fish. (overall length?)

Then there is G, the girth.

diagram.gif
 
Pufferpunk;4634076; said:
It is extremely important to QT this species. They are very prone to ich &/or velvet when moved to a different environment.

If not fed a diet of 90% snails, dentistry may be necessary as often as 4-6 months.

This is VERY true. Every single SAP I've purchased has gotten Ich within a couple weeks or so.
 
I would guess that I feed mine about 5 to 10% snails and out of three adults and two juvies, only 1 actually needed clipping this time which I do about every 6 months. Their diet consists primarily of freeze dried river shrimp, which one adult and one juvie generally forgo in favour of the herbivore tablets that I drop in for the cories. Additionally I feed cherry shrimp and baby crays from time to time also.

You may want to consider adding add a comment something along the lines: "Is a puffer species that does not readily adapt to captivity". Because the general consensus seems to be that their neurotic behavior doesn't ever stop.

Also you have them eating 90% snails and 5% other food in the article.
 
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