Facts or myths about cycling??

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jeep07

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Sep 16, 2010
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Im in the midst of cycling my 46g and I came across this website. Idk if its credible thats why Im asking about it. Here's the website: http://www.bluecrayfish.com/cycle.htm The part though that Im asking about is :
1. Run the aquarium at a high temperature, up in the low to mid eighties, Fahrenheit. Only do this if you have no pets in the aquarium which need lower temperatures. The higher temperature leads to faster cycling.
2. Keep the tank only about 50-65% full. This creates a waterfall effect as the water leaves the filter, and when the water from the filter hits the surface of the aquarium water, there is a great deal of water turbulence, exposing more water to more air more quickly, and leading to increased oxygenation, and thus, faster cycling.
3. Keep the aquarium light on 24 hours per day during cycling. Only do this if you have no pets in the aquarium which need less light, or which need darkness. The increased light leads to faster cycling.
4. Use as many air stones and air pumps as you have access to, which will fit in the aquarium. Keep them all running all the time. This leads to increased oxygenation, which leads to faster cycling. Only do this if you have no pets in the aquarium which need calm, or still water.

What do you guys think? Is he/she right? Thank you
 
Everything stated makes sense. You'll be running your electric bill up though!
 
Okay. I will leave the light on and raise the temperature to about 82. Can you explain why having more oxygen; such as this waterfall effect he was talking about (im not to concerned with the airstones becasue I dont have) has a positive effect with the ability to cycle a tank? I though bb colonized becasue of ammonia from waste in the first place?
 
The "waterfall"/airstone would increase the Oxygen content of the water. This assists the bacteria colony you are trying to establish in the filter.
Don't really see the point in having the lights on all the time though.
 
Except in relation to the light on, I see no wrong in the proposed method.
 
Very interesting lol. Alright, so it would be a good idea to take out 20-30% of my water to create more of a waterfall effect? And do you also agree with raising the temperature to 82-84?
 
Everything but the light is spot on. The water level may have varied results depending on the filter you use. An HOB will have a significantly reduced flow rate if the water level was that low I'd go with 20-30% for HOB. Will have little effect on the canister.
 
The BB that process Ammonia and Nitrite are aerobic bacteria
Anything that increses oxygenization is going to help them out
FWIW - A bio wheel is far more efficient, especially a cultured one
The lights they do nothing
 
I had no idea that these bb needed all these special requirments lol. Do you happen to know the name of these suckers? If not I can also google it. I want to learn more about the bb. And I will take out some of my water. I believe in one of the websites I read, im not sure if its credible, but it said during the cycling process, to not do a water change. With me taking some of the water out, is that going to affect the process only in a positive manner and/or my water parameters? Or am i over-thinking this lol? Thanks everyone
 
That waterfall effect is only going to happen with certain filters, like a HOB especially. If you're running say sponge filters (love them!), or undergravel filters (don't, lol, they suck ;) ) this isn't going to help.
A product I've found which really DOES cycle your tank is Seachem Stability. Not needed, but will great decrease the amount of time it takes to cycle, and it's not very expensive. I was really skeptical about it, but I've used it to cycle many tanks now, and am a firm believer. The absolutely fastest way to cycle a tank is by getting established media from a healthy cycled tank...
 
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