Favorite African Cichlids?

[Lantz]

I just bought a 135 gallon and my FX5, 350 mag, lights, heater, etc etc is on its way via UPS as I sit here Im sitting up a African Cichlid tank, Im not yet educated as to the names of all these fish yet but you all seem to be very schooled on this hobby so Id like some input as to what are you favorites, may pics for those that don't mind posting or linking to them please.

Oh how many fish should I put in a 72 x 18 x 25 Tall?

Thanks guys.

 

[SupeDM]

The number of fish to put in the tank must be determined by the types of African Cichlids that you are going to put into the tank and the amount of Rockwork territories that you provide. Since you said you are new to african cichlids I would imagine that you are going to start with The Lake malawi Cichlids. These can be divided into three main groups. Mbuna Which are the more agressive Rock dwelling cichlids and the most commonly available. These are best kept in a tank that would be considered very crowded. Species should be kept in groups of around 5. Some of the more common of these are the Zebras and the Yellow Labidochromis, as well as melanochromis Auratus and Johanni. The next major group would be the Utaka Which consists primarily of the Haplochromine cichlids. These are for the most part less agressive and should not be kept with the more agressive types of Mbuna. The Haplochromine Cichlids are usually found in areas of open water not far from rocky reefs and shores. They are some of the better colored fish in the lake. Some of these species get quite large and are best kept in groups of 4 or less. Try to get 1 male and the rest females of these species. Some of the more common Haplochrimine cichlids in the hobby are. Copadichromis Borleyi, Protomelas Steveni, Protomelas Fenestras( the Red Empress ), Nimbochromis Venestus. The third group I would consider for the aquarium and by far the most popular for their color and peacefull temperment are the Peacocks of the Genus Aulonocara. These fish are mainly cave dwelling sand sifting feeders. They will freely hybridize so it is best to keep only one species per aquarium. However Males of different species may be kept together without females in the aquarium. Without going on and on I would recommend that you get some books about these fish. I would start with a book called Sucess with Cichlids from Lakes malawi and Tanganika by Sabine Melke and also there is a very good book about the care and breeding of these fish written by Mary Sweeney. I believe it is called The proper care of Malawi Cichlids. I would start my tank out with 6 yellow Labidochromis from a reputable source so as to avoid hybrids. Because these fish although part of the more agressive Mbuna are quite mellow towards other species. While enjoying these fish I would do a little reading and research to decide what other species I would put with them. DO NOT FORGET TO QUARANTINE NEW FISH BEFORE ADDING THEM TO YOUR MAIN TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[1974Pantera]

The number of fish to put in the tank must be determined by the types of African Cichlids that you are going to put into the tank and the amount of Rockwork territories that you provide. Since you said you are new to african cichlids I would imagine that you are going to start with The Lake malawi Cichlids. These can be divided into three main groups. Mbuna Which are the more agressive Rock dwelling cichlids and the most commonly available. These are best kept in a tank that would be considered very crowded. Species should be kept in groups of around 5. Some of the more common of these are the Zebras and the Yellow Labidochromis, as well as melanochromis Auratus and Johanni. The next major group would be the Utaka Which consists primarily of the Haplochromine cichlids. These are for the most part less agressive and should not be kept with the more agressive types of Mbuna. The Haplochromine Cichlids are usually found in areas of open water not far from rocky reefs and shores. They are some of the better colored fish in the lake. Some of these species get quite large and are best kept in groups of 4 or less. Try to get 1 male and the rest females of these species. Some of the more common Haplochrimine cichlids in the hobby are. Copadichromis Borleyi, Protomelas Steveni, Protomelas Fenestras( the Red Empress ), Nimbochromis Venestus. The third group I would consider for the aquarium and by far the most popular for their color and peacefull temperment are the Peacocks of the Genus Aulonocara. These fish are mainly cave dwelling sand sifting feeders. They will freely hybridize so it is best to keep only one species per aquarium. However Males of different species may be kept together without females in the aquarium. Without going on and on I would recommend that you get some books about these fish. I would start with a book called Sucess with Cichlids from Lakes malawi and Tanganika by Sabine Melke and also there is a very good book about the care and breeding of these fish written by Mary Sweeney. I believe it is called The proper care of Malawi Cichlids. I would start my tank out with 6 yellow Labidochromis from a reputable source so as to avoid hybrids. Because these fish although part of the more agressive Mbuna are quite mellow towards other species. While enjoying these fish I would do a little reading and research to decide what other species I would put with them. DO NOT FORGET TO QUARANTINE NEW FISH BEFORE ADDING THEM TO YOUR MAIN TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Excellent post but I could a few things off the top of my head. If the original poster is a novice to the hobby, he should look up "cycling of a new tank" for that new 135g.

An education in the Ph/Kh of the water is important in keeping Africans.

 

[Otherone]

I have about 40- 45 Africans in a tank the size of yours - everything from shellies to victorians - mbuna - haps - peacocks. They range in size from 2-3" to all but a foot.
Also have 4 Bichirs in there ranging from a 10" Senagulus to an all but 2 ft Ornate. A few fancy plecos and cats as well. Been a nice community for the past several years but it is work.............50% water changes religiously every week.

Africans like the higher PH range 8-8.5 the use of crushed coral as a base helps achieve this range. As for KH or Carbon hardness an airstone or surface powerhead should be sufficent in combination with the lime from crushed corals to release the c02 and achieve a high alkaline aquarium enviorment - the problems with kh arise more from not changing carbon in the filtration - I change mine bi-monthly. I'm no expert on KH so get a test kit and follow the directions if you feel KH is a concern.

Personally I have single specimine - all male- not groups of species, that's more preferential than mandatory. Actually the inclusion of females or multiple males of the same specie can increases the aggression level of your tank esp. when it's breeding time. In most cases I've found the males to be the most colorful anyways. Africans have varied diets some like vegatation some like high protien you'll have to research your fish to understand each of their needs - this is very important. So long as you have a search engine you can find everything you need to know about African cichlids on the web. There are literally 1,000's of Rift lake species- way to many to list and describe on this site.

One things for sure - you'll get outta this hobby what you put into it. A large African tank is a show stopper - you can't not stop and stare.

 

[1974Pantera]

"I have about 40- 45 Africans in a tank the size of yours - everything from shellies to victorians"

Which Victorians do you keep? Please post some pictures.

BTW, excellent post!

 

[1974Pantera]

Here is one of my favorites...poor photo unfortunately:

 

[1974Pantera]

Not really one of my favorites but he's the nut job in the tank....tried to get him doing his "hanging upside down" in the pot routine but no luck?

 

[señor_pescados_felices]

The first reply was very good, I am constantly surprised at how many seasoned aquarists don't know that the rock dwellers are mbuna and the free swimmers utaka.

That being said my most important recommendation I could possibly make is this, which I'm going to put in caps to really stress it:

MESSING AROUND WITH YOUR PH TRYING TO GET IT "JUST PERFECT" AND HAVING IT FLUCTUATE WILL BE MUCH, MUCH, MUCH MORE HARMFUL ON YOUR FISH THAN JUST LETTING THEM LIVE IN YOUR TAP WATER UNLESS YOU TAP WATER IS MUCH LESS THAN 7.0

In addition, my favorite African cichlid, actually my favorite fish ever SW OR FW is Dimidiochromis Compressiceps AKA Malawi Eye Biter followed closely by C.Caruelus AKA Malawi Trout. (and then the Tyranochromis...)

 

[1974Pantera]

MESSING AROUND WITH YOUR PH TRYING TO GET IT "JUST PERFECT" AND HAVING IT FLUCTUATE WILL BE MUCH, MUCH, MUCH MORE HARMFUL ON YOUR FISH THAN JUST LETTING THEM LIVE IN YOUR TAP WATER UNLESS YOU TAP WATER IS MUCH LESS THAN 7.0

I respectfully do not concur to a point.

Any righteous breeder or vendor is going to keep his stock within the proper Ph parameters. By not buffering your tank, you are going to subject any new arrivals to Ph shock....and possibly a needless death.

Depending on the Ph from the tap will dictate your WC's. The more acidic the local tap, would advocate a more frequent WC schedule with smaller percentages of water to be removed and added. With very low nitrate levels, even less WC's are needed, keeping the Ph constant.

 

[SupeDM]

I would agree fully with the last poster completely however most experienced breeders and distributors know exactly what it takes to alter if needed the water they have at their disposal to the desired PH and Hardness so they dont have the up and down swings that a person who was new to fishkeeping would. I would also agree that if your PH and Hardness are close to the desired range right from the tap that it would be better to leave it alone than have the swings that come with trying to change it. I had real issues trying to lower my PH and soften my water to breed Bushy nose plecos Lots of swings in the PH untill I started using RO water. I have never had to alter my water for the africans It comes out of the tap off the top of the charts for both KH and GH at a PH of 8.4.

Back to the posters topic. If I had a 125 just for a display of African cichlids. I would do 8 yellow labs 4 red Zebras 5 malanochrimis Johanni and a group of OB labeotropheous. Since alot of these will hybridize easily i would put in a Spiny eel or two to keep the fry population in check. Definately use either of the eels from Tanganika or the Rosette eel from malawi. Also I would put in a half dozen bushynose plecos. and a few clown loaches. This would be a great display of the colors of these fish as well as a good cleanup crew. Just be very carefull to quarantine clown loaches for a very long time as I for one am sick of batteling ICH with these fish.