filteration vs water changes

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cpm6t

Gambusia
MFK Member
Nov 8, 2011
577
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Sri Lanka
I'm in the process of setting up a 220g.
Trying to see what I can do with my flow turnover rate through the sump (filter socks, filter media and back to tank).

If I do a 3X turnover/hour (from what I hear, this is not enough, I've read people say it should be 6-10 times) how much water change should I do to counter the negative effect.

If I do a drip system to add 220g of fresh water/week, will that be good enough? If not how much fresh water?

I think adding more freshwater is better than more filteration. So I should be able to reach some balance. Please advice.
 
The turnover/hour is more to ensure proper mechanical filtering, not bioload. If you have enough bio you have enough bio. Water changes are not a replacement for biological, imo, but regular vacuuming makes up for insufficient mechanical filtration. A few powerheads for circulation would be very beneficial in all likelihood.
 
cpm6t said:
I'm in the process of setting up a 220g.
Trying to see what I can do with my flow turnover rate through the sump (filter socks, filter media and back to tank).

If I do a 3X turnover/hour (from what I hear, this is not enough, I've read people say it should be 6-10 times) how much water change should I do to counter the negative effect.

If I do a drip system to add 220g of fresh water/week, will that be good enough? If not how much fresh water?

I think adding more freshwater is better than more filteration. So I should be able to reach some balance. Please advice.
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You need to read up on the Nitrogen Cycle. Once you understand, it will become very clear to you what you will need to do. Basically, the beneficial bacteria in your biological media convert harmful ammonia waste into very harmful nitrites. Other beneficial bacteria then convert the harmful nitrites into less harmful nitrates. Unless you have a mechanism to remove nitrates, i.e., usually either by water changes, or a heavily planted tank, your nitrates will continue to rise. High nitrates have been implicated in failure to thrive, stunting, early death in fish, HITH, etc. Get a Freshwater Master Test Kit and routinely test your water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. In a cycled tank there will be 0 ammonia and nitrites. Most fish do well when nitrates are kept below 20 ppm. All you need to do is change out enough water to keep your nitrates below 20 ppm. All the filtration in the world will not keep your nitrates from rising, unless you invest in a nitrate filter or have enough plants to consume the nitrates. Your nitrate level should be the indicator for determining if you are changing enough water with your drip system.

As for turnover rates, mechanical filtration removes particulates from the water. If your mechanical component is inadequate, you won't have crystal clear water. You are proposing to change out 100% of the water every week with a drip system. How heavily or lightly you stock your tank impacts everything. More fish equals more waste. Changing out water should not be a guessing game. Test your water, know what your parameters (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) are, then change out enough water so that you can post, "I maintain excellent water parameters."
 
You should have enough filtration, so you only need to do the minimal amount of water changing a week to get nitrates down. There's not an endless supply of freshwater, so why waste it? I know there are some people on here that are rediculous with their drip systems and drip 100 percent or more a week of their tank volume. It doesn't cost much to run sufficient filtration and is way less wasteful than changing an obnoxious amount of water a week.
 
I sort of agree with aaronb. As you begin cycling the tank I would start small with the drip system and then increase it as necessary to keep nitrates low. Are you planning on also doing water changes on top of the drip system? Why not just increase the rate of your drip system? It doesn't decrease the amount of water you end up using to just increase the drip system (unless I am missing something here).

Also, the debate about which is more economical/green, automatic drip system or filters, is endless. It depends on what you plan to stock and how much you plan to stock. It also depends on what filters you would end up using. There is not an endless supply of freshwater, but there is also not an endless supply of energy (without an ecological impact). Not trying to start an argument, but OP think it through and do what makes the most sense for you personally and your wallet.
 
Drip systems for continuous water changes are great... if the water you are introducing into your tank is of high purity. You might want to have your tap water tested for Nitrate levels so you know what you are starting with before you design your drip system.
 
You also need to figure in the associated costs with using each method. Most people running high end drip systems use them with a di/ro system to remove all impurities. You also should consider what to do with the drained water. Is it going into a yard, garden, down the drain? Is it going to add anything to your sewage bill? In comparison, you should look at the costs of running a sump with minimal/no drip, a large return pump, etc. At what point does one setup become a much better investment than the other?
 
aclockworkorange said:
Listen to pacu mom. More turnover does not mean less water changes. It's amazing to me how even some long time hobbyists do not fully grasp the nitrogen "cycle"...


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Click to expand...

Exactly. At the same time it should be mentioned that stock will also determine how much filtration - and what will work best. There's a difference between stocking that tank with African cichlids, or stocking with oscars, or discus. Some are messier than others of course, and even with water changes being done by drip, you wouldn't want to keep a lower filtration rate on that tank or to go very long without doing gravel vac. Your stock will affect what you need - and how much stock you have too.
 
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