First time going saltwater, need help/advice

[skud24]

Hello. I've recently been keeping African cichlids in my 135g for a few years and after seeing all the saltwater fish at my lfs I always wanted to go salt. So, now I am. I'm going for just a cheap fish tank only. I just want to see if what I will be getting is ok for first setup.

My tank is already cycled for the african's that I am going to trade in for salt. Is there anything different to cycle for with salt or is this good?

They said all I would need for basic fish and no live rock or coral yet was just silicate free sand, a bucket of the Marine salt, marine buffer and a hydrometer.

I was reading that salt fish are more sensitive to nitrate levels. Anything to get to keep them low in saltwater? And how soon after I add the salt can I add the fish?

And any suggestions for fish timer fish, cheap one's please, heh. Thanks for your input and help.

 

[FLESHY]

Yes...you will need to recycle it once the SW is in the tank.

What is your current filtration system like?

You are going to need a hydrometer, a SW test kit, salt...I would steer clear of the buffers at all cost. Literally. Big waste of money. 99.9% of the time.

To answer your last question, I respond with a question. What is a fish timer fish?

 

[skud24]

I currently have a wet/dry filtration with an overflow box.

They said to get the Seachem Marine buffer. Is no pH buffer stuff needed?

I meant to say 'first timer fish.'

Oh does the current 'cycled' bacteria get killed from the salt and new bacteria has to cycle?

 

[FLESHY]

Yes...same processes...SW bacteria.

Fish really arent that hard...its just like FW...except you add salt when you do h2o changes.

Check your parameters...lots of people keep high end corals in h2o that has lower pH than recommended, and do fine. If corals can make it, fish will be fine. Salt mix is supposed to buffer. Dont go down the buffering road till you know for sure that you need to. An airstone in your sump can also help keep pH up, but watch out for the extra evap it causes.

If you can sump your overflow you can use macro algaes to absorb nitrates. That and big water changes.

I also recommend seachem purigen.

 

[skud24]

Damn that sucks about cycling again. So i'd have to clean all bio balls and put fresh prefilter and filter pads in the overflow system? Any fish I can keep in the tank for cycling?

My tap water pH is around 7.6-7.8 from what I can remember, so I'll save some money and see if I can go without the buffer, heh. I'll look at getting an airstone.

Making it in to a sump is creating another 'section' to house live rock, sand and macroalgae? Right now it flows from the overflow box thru filter pad to the bio balls then pumps back up to the tank.

And what's the Purigen used for? Sorry to ask so much, just didn't think it'd be more then I thought, heh. Thanks for your help.

 

[Otto_VonBacon]

Yes. Your filtration will have to be cleaned. As fleshy said the salt should buffer it enough for now, don't waste any money on buffers yet. Hydrometers work, but they're unreliable and inaccurate. I'd suggest a refractometer if you're willing to dish out the price of one.

 

[FLESHY]

Really depends with the hydrometers...I have been running mixed reef(s) for 8 years now with hydrometers, and never had an issue. You have to be consistent with temperature though, and you have to wash them out ect...

This being said, nothing wrong with just going the refractometer route to begin with.

With where your pH is, for a fish only tank, you dont need to do anything. Reefers keep their pH there, and once you mix in the salt I bet you it goes up to 8. So you are fine in that regard.

Cycling the tank again isnt that big of a deal. "Good things happen to those who wait."

What is your substrate right now? We may need to change that as well.

And yes...I would recommend just macros...LR and sand can give places for detritus to accumulate, and you should have more than enough LR and sand in your tank for biological filtration.

Purigen removes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, heavy metals and chloramines...all sorts of things. Basically everything. Plus its rechargeable.

 

[skud24]

Refractometer is out of my price range right now. I will definitely look in to those later, but I did pick up a hydrometer. I'll also clean the whole filtration today and add fresh water and salt. I picked up a big bucket of Instant Ocean salt mix.

I was told to keep the temperature at 76-77F. And I didn't get the buffer as you both pointed out I shouldn't need it.

My LFS said that a good cycling starter fish would be Damsels and they have them $10 for 4.

I have play sand as a substrate. I would have to convert the wet/dry to a sump as it doesn't have any place to overflow between the bio media and the return pump. I wouldn't have to make it a sump really unless going Live Rock or Coral, right? Where else could I put the macroalgae?

And if I get Purigen wouldn't that slow down the process of the cycle since it gets rid of everything?

 

[FLESHY]

Purigen is just a good media for a high waste setting like a FOWLR.

Your play sand is not recommended for SW setups.

I recommend caribsea's reef grade aragonite. I recommend aragonite in general as the SW substrate of choice. I have aragonite to sell...if you are willing to pay shipping.

That being said...Most people want LR in their Fish Only With Live Rock tanks. The dieoff from these rocks while they are "curing" will cause a nitrogen cycle. No need to buy/waste fish.

And lastly you can grow macro algae in your tank...I have grape caulerpa right now that I could also send to you.

 

[Billy_m24]

I have had a reef tank for several years now and I made my own sump it is very easy to do, make my own MH lighting out of parking light fixtures easy to do. but the best thing I ever found out about was a DYI algee truff scrubber, keeps the ph at 8.2 nitrate at 0, no water changes needed grows tons of cocpads cost about $30.00 to make just google it you wont be sorry. oh yea keeps your sand clean and no algee in the tank so no clean up crew really needed.