Fish Room Automation

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Potts050

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Aug 15, 2006
1,003
3
38
Brantford Ontario Canada
I was wondering if anyone out there has grappled with trying to automate some of the processes at work in their fishrooms.
I started experimenting a couple of years ago with a Programmable Logic Controller to control lights, flush filters, run automatic feeders, pulse aerators and provide PID control for heaters.
It also counts the amount of time or number of cycles a particular filter runs and indicates when its time to clean or inspect it first with a flashing warning light then a solid red when its overdue. This is a real benefit for me since I dont know how many times I've asked myself when was the last time I changed the carbon in that particular filter.....I've cut my carbon consumption in half because I'm not changing carbon too often to be on the safe side :ROFL:

Anyway, has anyone else come up with a differant or unique solution for automating your fish room?
I can tell that there are a lot of solid technically minded people out there that have grappled with this. LETS SHARE SOME SKILLS.............................
 
I have a thread about my drip system, and I know a few other members have done this as well. I havent done a water change on a heavily stocked 265 for months and the nitrates are <15ppm
 
I’ve been thinking about having a main tank with fish, and a smaller tank below it containing only water.

You have two identical internal filters in each tank with hoses attached to the nozzles.

These filters are separately connected to separate digital electronic timers. If you know the flow rate of each filter, you can set the internal filter in the main tank to come on for 60seconds for example and send water down a drain.

Now, the identical internal filter in the smaller tank below comes on for 60 seconds as well perhaps 2 minutes after the first filter. This sends water back into the main tank via the hose.

In this way, all you have to do is refill the smaller tank at your convenience. This smaller tank can also have another filter internally to keep water circulated and aerated. In this way, the smaller tank does not need dechlorinator ever because no actual cycling goes on in it.
 
rallysman;508022; said:
I have a thread about my drip system, and I know a few other members have done this as well. I havent done a water change on a heavily stocked 265 for months and the nitrates are <15ppm
Click to expand...

I've heard of these filters doing an excellant job. What is the effect on your pH and total hardness with drip systems in the long term?
 
js302;508035; said:
I’ve been thinking about having a main tank with fish, and a smaller tank below it containing only water.

You have two identical internal filters in each tank with hoses attached to the nozzles.

These filters are separately connected to separate digital electronic timers. If you know the flow rate of each filter, you can set the internal filter in the main tank to come on for 60seconds for example and send water down a drain.

Now, the identical internal filter in the smaller tank below comes on for 60 seconds as well perhaps 2 minutes after the first filter. This sends water back into the main tank via the hose.

In this way, all you have to do is refill the smaller tank at your convenience. This smaller tank can also have another filter internally to keep water circulated and aerated. In this way, the smaller tank does not need dechlorinator ever because no actual cycling goes on in it.
Click to expand...

Excellant idea.....
If you were to drain the main tank through a normally closed electrically operated valve that opened on a timer whilst turning on the pump in the sump to to return water to the main tank, you could eliminate a pump for the cost of a valve. Also you could use a level sensor in the sump to shut off both the solenoid and the pump, if the sump level was either too high (avoid floods) or too low (avoid pump burn out) as a safety. By running a sponge filter in the sump you will maintain high water quality.

You could go one further by using the low level sensor to operate a solenoid controlled valve that would put make up water in your sump directly from your domestic water supply, turned off by the high water sensor. I think we're on to something here...........
 
so far I havent noticed any difference at all.
 
brianstropicals.com has some nice plumbing and uniform, very streamlined design under pictures. My stuff is mainly on lots of timers. I'm working a selective breeding set up that i've been meaning to post pictures of that will be completely automated, from lights to food.
 
I think it’s important to keep all water moving to keep it aerated and fresh. And you're right, you could eliminate a pump for the cost of a valve. Level sensors are important too. That’s why I suggested electronic digital timers so you could set one to 60 seconds and the other to 75seconds for example incase one filter pumps slightly faster than the other. You could not alter flow rates but alter flow quantities be determinind flow time periods and could also account for evaporation.

In this way you can do as many w/c’s as you wanted to automatically. For ray’s, discus, whatever!

Sponge filters will be a good addition too. I always see sponge filter recommendations here on MFK. Domestic water supply could definitely be used in small amounts. Lots on chlorine in my area though. The water level sensors are a great addition. Would building or buying these sensors be expensive??
 
I'm an electrical contractor by trade so for me I would say no. Good DC level sensors are avalable in the $CAN 25 to $Can100 range (12 to 50 $Euro)
I/2'' normally closed solenoid valves are a little more expensive. My ball park figure on a controls package for a project like that would be between $Can100 and $Can200 with the relays, fuse protection and enclosure.
 
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