Flow Rate Question. Please Enlighten me

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

botete

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Feb 12, 2010
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edison
Hello everyone,

I just have a quick question regarding filters with adjustable flow rate. A good example are Aquaclear hob filter, Eheim canister and Fluval canister etc. They all have an adjustable flow rate, that's a good thing but kind of confused me. Every filter is rated to a certain tank size. Example, Aquaclear 70 hang on back filter is good up to 70 gallon tank.

My confusion would be,

1)can you still rate the Aquaclear 70 to a 70 gallon tank after adjusting the flow rate to the lowest settings? Would it still be enough to use that filter in a 70 gallon tank after changing ot to lowest flow settings?

2) What does powerful filter mean? Does that mean just a high gph/flow rate filter or a filter with lots of bio media?

Everyone suggest that when keeping a goldfish, you should have a powerful filter but a powerful filter means high/strong flow rate and goldfish doesn't like that. Am I missing something?

Thank you very much!!!
 
1)can you still rate the Aquaclear 70 to a 70 gallon tank after adjusting the flow rate to the lowest settings? Would it still be enough to use that filter in a 70 gallon tank after changing ot to lowest flow settings?

I highly suggest you completely ignore any filter's "up to XX gal tank" rating. It is not based on logical reasoning and is instead manufacturing manipulation.

Considering flow rate (gph) media variety and media volume are three good ways to judge a filter. Each have their own benefits and advantages and are more/less important depending on the conditions of each tank.


2) What does powerful filter mean? Does that mean just a high gph/flow rate filter or a filter with lots of bio media?

"Powerful Filter" does not have an industry standard meaning. Difference people will use it to mean different things.

Goldfish are calm water fish that create a lot of waste. Thus low flow filters with a large bio media capacity would be logical. Although it also makes sense to set up the filter so it creates current on the bottom of the tank moving physical waste toward the intake. But don't forget surface agitation for oxygenating the water.

You aer correct that meeting the filtration & oxygenation needs of goldfish without creating 'too much' flow is a difficult balance to perfect...
 
thank you for replying.

follow up question.

1) I'm using seachem prime to dechlorinate the water. If I'm going to let my water age overnight, when would be the best time to put the seachem prime? Should i dose the bucket while filling it with tap water then leave it overnight? or should i dose the aged water bucket before filling it to the tank?

2) My direct tap water PH is 7.2. If i let the water age overnight, the ph goes up to 7.6(same with my tank). Does that mean I can't make water change directly from tap water?

A lot of people use python clean and fill vacuum for easier water change. Does that mean they have the exact ph of tap water to their tanks? What's the secret? I would love to use python clean and fill vacuum and i just want to make sure before i purchase it.
 
1) I'm using seachem prime to dechlorinate the water. If I'm going to let my water age overnight, when would be the best time to put the seachem prime? Should i dose the bucket while filling it with tap water then leave it overnight? or should i dose the aged water bucket before filling it to the tank?

Using a dechlorinator removes the need to 'age' water. Add Prime whenever you like.


2) My direct tap water PH is 7.2. If i let the water age overnight, the ph goes up to 7.6(same with my tank). Does that mean I can't make water change directly from tap water?

Then the PH of your water right out of the tap is 7.6, not 7.2

It's fairly common for water int he pipes to collect gas and those gases interact with the PH test giving a slightly false reading. Alling the water to sit in an inert container will allow these gases to dissipate. During this process the PH is not changing, it test was reading wrong prior to the gas dissipating.


A lot of people use python clean and fill vacuum for easier water change. Does that mean they have the exact ph of tap water to their tanks? What's the secret? I would love to use python clean and fill vacuum and i just want to make sure before i purchase it.

Feel free to use a Python and refill straight from the tap.

Also consider making a DIY version of the Python. I have a 25' clear vinyl hose with fittings to be attached to the sink. I rely on a siphon to drain the tank. There is no worry of suckign tank water in my mouth as it has 25' to travel before it gets to me. My lungs aren't big enough to make that mistake. My hose + fittings cost about 1/4 the price of a Python and I do not waste wter as I drain the tank.
 
nc_nutcase;4161884; said:
Then the PH of your water right out of the tap is 7.6, not 7.2

It's fairly common for water int he pipes to collect gas and those gases interact with the PH test giving a slightly false reading. Alling the water to sit in an inert container will allow these gases to dissipate. During this process the PH is not changing, it test was reading wrong prior to the gas dissipating.

It's not that I don't believe you but i've been reading some articles about the the tap water PH being low. I just want to make sure because ill be putting some fish that cost me around 400 dollars

"If you find that there is a major difference between the pH of your water right out of the tap and the pH of your water after 24-48 hours, the easiest way to do water changes and not stress your fish is to buy a bucket or two, fill them up with water, add an airstone to each, and let the water sit out for 24-48 hours. The pH will then be adjusted to its actual value and you can use the water for your water change."

Are you sure that it's just a false reading?
 
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