Forest Hingeback Tortoise Care

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

predfish

Candiru
MFK Member
Aug 16, 2009
218
2
48
fish heavan
First if you want to mix with your beardie FORGET ABOUT IT! They have completly diferent envoiremental needs, you will likely endup with one or both killed / very sick. Next there is something about forest hingebacks that you should know and its very important. Hinge back tortoises as a genus are ALL hard to aclimate, very picky about what food they will eat and often eat very litle, very shy, delicate and the ones you find for sale normally are ALL wild cauth without a exception, which means they normaly are full of parasites, dehidrated and starving. And that is something bad in a tortoise genus that is delicate to start with. Also you just happened to select the most delicate kinds, the forest ones, K. homeana, K. erosa, etc. These are animals that by no circunstances I would recomend to anyone without a huge tortoise experience including keeping easier species in the same genus.
I higly recomend that you sellect a much hardier, comonly CB tortoise such as a Testudo, like Testudo marginata.
If you want a good chance at sucesseding with Kiniyx first of you have to do a ALLOT of reserch on their wild habits, wild temperatures, wild foods, care sheets, people that have them for you to see what they feed them, how they keep them, etc. Im not going to tell you how to care for one, what has to be said its to long.
Considering the mortality WCs face I dont think its a good policy to purchase one of those, insted save your money to a true CB one or at least a long term captive one. That if you incist on hinge backs. But really even captived bred fully well kept ones require constant atention and full dedication to their needs. They trully are expert´s tortoises.
 
You stated in your own post that you know Hingebacks need high humidity and then ask if you can keep a Bearded Dragon that needs low to no humidity with it, you answered your own question.
 
coura;4825500; said:
First if you want to mix with your beardie FORGET ABOUT IT! They have completly diferent envoiremental needs, you will likely endup with one or both killed / very sick. Next there is something about forest hingebacks that you should know and its very important. Hinge back tortoises as a genus are ALL hard to aclimate, very picky about what food they will eat and often eat very litle, very shy, delicate and the ones you find for sale normally are ALL wild cauth without a exception, which means they normaly are full of parasites, dehidrated and starving. And that is something bad in a tortoise genus that is delicate to start with. Also you just happened to select the most delicate kinds, the forest ones, K. homeana, K. erosa, etc. These are animals that by no circunstances I would recomend to anyone without a huge tortoise experience including keeping easier species in the same genus.
I higly recomend that you sellect a much hardier, comonly CB tortoise such as a Testudo, like Testudo marginata.
If you want a good chance at sucesseding with Kiniyx first of you have to do a ALLOT of reserch on their wild habits, wild temperatures, wild foods, care sheets, people that have them for you to see what they feed them, how they keep them, etc. Im not going to tell you how to care for one, what has to be said its to long.
Considering the mortality WCs face I dont think its a good policy to purchase one of those, insted save your money to a true CB one or at least a long term captive one. That if you incist on hinge backs. But really even captived bred fully well kept ones require constant atention and full dedication to their needs. They trully are expert´s tortoises.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! you saved me from making a HUGE mistake. I will most likely be looking into getting and researching on a russian tortoise then. If there is any complications or any info that must be said about them please post.
 
If you want a Tortoise like a Hingeback in care but vastly more hardy, Try the Redfoots. I own two and I love the guys, very intelligent and personable and their care is straight forward. give them plenty of space, a humid hide, a place to soak, and a good misting of them and their tank twice a day and they are happy. Use a lower wattage basking light since they prefer low light and a 5.0 Reptisun for their UVB. As for diet, unlike other torts they can eat a vastly more diverse diet. Basic greens like Kale and Raddicho, Veggies like Squash, and they can eat more fruit than most Torts and need some protein based food at least once a week.
 
Here is a pic of both of my Redfoot Tortoises(Geochelone carbonaria), and Amazonian Jungle Tortoise. The Bigger Male is named Lakitu, the smaller Female called Koopa.

165760_1803007596376_1275430697_32041299_4910519_n.jpg



Unlike the vast majority of Tortoise which inhibit Arid semi desert areas, the Red foots inhabit humid jungle areas following the Amazon Riverine system in Belize, Brazil, French Guyana, etc and can be found on some Caribbean Islands. As such their care is a bit more active than some other Torts, in that they need to be regularly misted or have an mister system in their tank, so that humidity stays near 80% at all times. I mist mine and their tank with a spray bottle three times a day, the torts get sprayed till water is beading on their shells and their habitat just enough so that its moist, but not wet. Keeping them moist like this also helps to fight Shell issues such as Pyramiding and helps them to keep their coloration. Just ensure that their tank is moist and that it drys after about 30 minutes a bit, and not wet to fight molding and fungal infections.

I keep my two in a 45 gal breeder tank that is 36 x 18 x 18, this gives them plenty of space to tromp around. I use Jungle Bed for substrate, its produced by Exo Terra and is a mixture of coconut fibers, soil, moss, etc and works well at maintaining heat and humidity. They have a large hide in the corner that they use to hid in and sleep, I keep it soaked underneath it and on the bottom of the glass under it I have an Exo Terra jungle substrate heater to maintain the temp under it at 80%.

On the other side of the tank is a 50 watt sunglo bulb that they use to bask in and to warm up, the average basking temp it puts out is 91% which is perfectly fine for them and its low wattage ensures the light isn't too bright. Redfoots live on the floor of the jungle where it isn't too bright, and like low light more so than direct bright lighting. They also need some form of UVB lighting to maintain their appetites and help them in processing calcium which they need for shell and bone growth and to avoid getting MBD( a reptile bone disorder. For this I use one Zilla slim light enclosure with a Exo Terra Reptisun 5.0 Florescent UVB light.

Underneath the basking light on the tank bed, I have placed a large stone with rocks placed around it so that they heat up, and provide a nice warm spot where the Tortoise can thermo-regulate their core temp on both their top and bottom. It is important that you maintain a area in the tank that is around 90 degrees and another that hovers between 75-80 degrees so that they can properly regulate their temps as needed.

168172_1805039407170_1275430697_32045121_7610240_n.jpg




Their diet is also a bit different than most Tortoises who live off of Silica based plants such as grasses and weeds, and cannot properly process most Fruit sugars or animal based proteins. Unlike those Tortoises which are true herbivores, Redfoots are omnivores and a wider in scope diet and can eat fruit and animal based proteins. I feed mine greens such as endive, Reddicho, Romaine lettuce, Kale, Dandelions, Mache, etc daily, and they get fruits and veggies such as Apples, Bananas, Squash, Bell Peppers, carrots, Papaya, etc every other day to round out their diet and too give them variety.

I dust this food every other day with Reptivite Supplement, so that they get all the vitamins, Calcium, and D3 that they need to maintain their health. Every Friday they get Protein in the form of low fat Cat food, Turtle pellets, Mazuri Tortoise food, Chicken, etc, while they need Protein in their diets too much of it can deform their shells so once a week is good enough as long as its high quality protein.

Also ensure they always have a large supply of fresh water, they did a area with water large enough for them to soak in, but only deep enough to go up halfway on their shells that can easily be climbed out off. Red Foots need to soak every few days, and they also like to defaecate in their water for whatever reason. So its important to maintain their water quality since the water they defaecate and soak in, is also their drinking supply. constantly change it as needed.

Red Foots tortoise IMO are one of the better species of tortoise to keep, their care is straight forward, they are highly intelligent and personable and will come up to the glass and beg and try to get your attention, and tame while enough that they will follow you around the yard. They are a medium sized Tortoise that grow to around 16 inches at the biggest and around 30 pounds, vastly smaller than torts like the Leopard and Star tortoises you see in pet stores, and much smaller than the common Sulcata's seen everywhere that easily can get up to 120 pounds.

164384_1801029266919_1275430697_32037280_733394_n.jpg
 
I couldnt have said it better :) But stars are not that big, actually large red foots are bigger then most adult stars. Stars are however still a very delicate tortoise. Red foots are a GREAT toise choice, are readbly available as cb and have relativelly easy to fullfill needs. Their hardest to provide one would be to house as full grown the larger forms, as they need a covered enclosure to provide heated conditions and are poor choices for open air enclosures and tortoise tables. Aside from that they are a easy tortoise.
 
Your right about Stars, I always assumed they were bigger than Redfoots cause the one I have seen was a huge beast, but he seems to be an exception. And thanks, nice to hear that from the master.
 
methos75;4828885; said:
Your right about Stars, I always assumed they were bigger than Redfoots cause the one I have seen was a huge beast, but he seems to be an exception. And thanks, nice to hear that from the master.
I am no master...
 
methos75;4826792; said:
Here is a pic of both of my Redfoot Tortoises(Geochelone carbonaria), and Amazonian Jungle Tortoise. The Bigger Male is named Lakitu, the smaller Female called Koopa.

165760_1803007596376_1275430697_32041299_4910519_n.jpg



Unlike the vast majority of Tortoise which inhibit Arid semi desert areas, the Red foots inhabit humid jungle areas following the Amazon Riverine system in Belize, Brazil, French Guyana, etc and can be found on some Caribbean Islands. As such their care is a bit more active than some other Torts, in that they need to be regularly misted or have an mister system in their tank, so that humidity stays near 80% at all times. I mist mine and their tank with a spray bottle three times a day, the torts get sprayed till water is beading on their shells and their habitat just enough so that its moist, but not wet. Keeping them moist like this also helps to fight Shell issues such as Pyramiding and helps them to keep their coloration. Just ensure that their tank is moist and that it drys after about 30 minutes a bit, and not wet to fight molding and fungal infections.

I keep my two in a 45 gal breeder tank that is 36 x 18 x 18, this gives them plenty of space to tromp around. I use Jungle Bed for substrate, its produced by Exo Terra and is a mixture of coconut fibers, soil, moss, etc and works well at maintaining heat and humidity. They have a large hide in the corner that they use to hid in and sleep, I keep it soaked underneath it and on the bottom of the glass under it I have an Exo Terra jungle substrate heater to maintain the temp under it at 80%.

On the other side of the tank is a 50 watt sunglo bulb that they use to bask in and to warm up, the average basking temp it puts out is 91% which is perfectly fine for them and its low wattage ensures the light isn't too bright. Redfoots live on the floor of the jungle where it isn't too bright, and like low light more so than direct bright lighting. They also need some form of UVB lighting to maintain their appetites and help them in processing calcium which they need for shell and bone growth and to avoid getting MBD( a reptile bone disorder. For this I use one Zilla slim light enclosure with a Exo Terra Reptisun 5.0 Florescent UVB light.

Underneath the basking light on the tank bed, I have placed a large stone with rocks placed around it so that they heat up, and provide a nice warm spot where the Tortoise can thermo-regulate their core temp on both their top and bottom. It is important that you maintain a area in the tank that is around 90 degrees and another that hovers between 75-80 degrees so that they can properly regulate their temps as needed.

168172_1805039407170_1275430697_32045121_7610240_n.jpg




Their diet is also a bit different than most Tortoises who live off of Silica based plants such as grasses and weeds, and cannot properly process most Fruit sugars or animal based proteins. Unlike those Tortoises which are true herbivores, Redfoots are omnivores and a wider in scope diet and can eat fruit and animal based proteins. I feed mine greens such as endive, Reddicho, Romaine lettuce, Kale, Dandelions, Mache, etc daily, and they get fruits and veggies such as Apples, Bananas, Squash, Bell Peppers, carrots, Papaya, etc every other day to round out their diet and too give them variety.

I dust this food every other day with Reptivite Supplement, so that they get all the vitamins, Calcium, and D3 that they need to maintain their health. Every Friday they get Protein in the form of low fat Cat food, Turtle pellets, Mazuri Tortoise food, Chicken, etc, while they need Protein in their diets too much of it can deform their shells so once a week is good enough as long as its high quality protein.

Also ensure they always have a large supply of fresh water, they did a area with water large enough for them to soak in, but only deep enough to go up halfway on their shells that can easily be climbed out off. Red Foots need to soak every few days, and they also like to defaecate in their water for whatever reason. So its important to maintain their water quality since the water they defaecate and soak in, is also their drinking supply. constantly change it as needed.

Red Foots tortoise IMO are one of the better species of tortoise to keep, their care is straight forward, they are highly intelligent and personable and will come up to the glass and beg and try to get your attention, and tame while enough that they will follow you around the yard. They are a medium sized Tortoise that grow to around 16 inches at the biggest and around 30 pounds, vastly smaller than torts like the Leopard and Star tortoises you see in pet stores, and much smaller than the common Sulcata's seen everywhere that easily can get up to 120 pounds.

164384_1801029266919_1275430697_32037280_733394_n.jpg


Very Thorough and answered alot of my questions. I love your tortoises they look so happy and healthy. Now i really want to get one! How old are your tortoises? Is it safe to feed them cat food? you said you fed them every Friday.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com