Gaps between stand and tank

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Plecostomus
MFK Member
Nov 3, 2009
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Culpeper, VA
I remember a long time ago, people said that just the 4 corners need to touch, but I'm in a new house now and not wanting to risk it.

Is that still key or do I need a new stand or find something else to level this thing out with??

The long sides of the stand itself droops. It's a heavy metal stand, with square tubing along the long sides, so I can't just mash it to correct the bend.

Foams only visually close gaps, so I won't use those as a fake fix.

What do others do in this situation??
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Can marine epoxy be used? Make a frame around the stand, pour epoxy, dry, remove frame and it should be level, right?
 
Not sure what size the tank is but I wouldn’t feel comfortable…especially if it’s a large tank.

Had no idea that metal stands can start sagging like that. If it were me, I’d take the stand to a welder, have them squeeze in a vertical brace (metal stock tube) between the top and bottom tubes to flex the stand straight and then weld it.
 
Oh!
I have pressure treated 4×4" posts.
I can cut them to 4ft and use them on the stand for the straight edge! Right? They shouldn't sag in a 4ft span, but could add a little shim in the middle, between stand and wood, to keep it from sagging in the future.
 
Not sure what size the tank is but I wouldn’t feel comfortable…especially if it’s a large tank.

Had no idea that metal stands can start sagging like that. If it were me, I’d take the stand to a welder, have them squeeze in a vertical brace (metal stock tube) between the top and bottom tubes to flex the stand straight and then weld it.

Thanks!
There used to be a welder around on the other side of the mountain. Not sure if they're still in business, but I can check. If so, I'll see if they can do that.
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Well, the wood isn't fully flat, a bump in the middle that won't sand down.

Found angle iron at lowes. Could put that between and shim it to not sag over time??
 
The reason that steel is bent like that is because it is angle iron, which should not be used as horizontal or vertical beams, like it is here. It should only be used for brackets and diagonal bracing etc.
It should have been made out of square/rectangular tube or C section.
Both of which are designed to be able to handle a static horizontal and vertical load.
I would personally just shim it with wooden wedges if that makes you more comfortable but ultimately the middle of those steel bars will continue to bend down with not much effort.
 
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I remember a long time ago, people said that just the 4 corners need to touch, but I'm in a new house now and not wanting to risk it.

Is that still key or do I need a new stand or find something else to level this thing out with??

The long sides of the stand itself droops. It's a heavy metal stand, with square tubing along the long sides, so I can't just mash it to correct the bend.

Foams only visually close gaps, so I won't use those as a fake fix.

What do others do in this situation??
View attachment 1529424View attachment 1529425View attachment 1529426

I would drain the tank so the angle iron straightens back out, then add some kind of post in the middle of the stand (both sides) to support the angle iron. Tubular steel of that gauge may have worked as mentioned above but angle iron would need to be a bit thicker to support this tank with this design it seems.
 
take a level to the front and sides. If it is level (bubble within the lines) just leave it.

Almost every steel or iron stand is like this. My Aqueon 150g has been like this for 14 years and counting, all my stands are tube steel.

it is true, tanks only need corner support the bottom panel is designed to support the full weight of the tank. Since the rise of the internet and common misinformation that is spread people have the idea that any gap in between a tank and a stand is bad and it isn't always, especially if the gap is in the middle.
if the corners are fully supported and the tank is flat and level it should be fine.

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