getting a 72" sump under a 96" tank

[DaveB]

I've decided to keep my 300 after all and use it in my new house.

Initially I was going to set it up backed up against the wall that's shared with the utility room (which will house all the drip system stuff), which would've let me slide the 125 sump in and out the end. But it will look and fit a lot better on the far wall, so that's where it'll be home.

Of course, in that position, the room is too narrow to slide a 6 foot tank in from the end. So the only access will be from in front.

Is there a way to design this so the entire front span is open, while also having it look as nice as my kitchen cabinets? I'm thinking no. Even if I have an 8 foot span that holds, I end up having no way to attach the cabinet doors.

Should I just sell the 125 sump and build my own dual 3' wide sumps underneath or is there a way to make this work?

 

[takinap]

Is there a reason you cannot add two or three vertical supports to the stand after you slide the tank in through the front?

 

[koop171]

Can you drop the sump in from the top of the stand then put the 300 over top of it? You might have to remove some cross bracing and then return it but that would be the best bet I think.

 

[DaveB]

Oh, I can build it in no problem. I should have been more specific: If there's an emergency, I want to be able to get it out.

 

[sponger_2]

id say your gonna have to do 2 36" tanks then.

 

[BadOleRoss]

If you are building the stand, build the bracing along the front of the stand with 3-2x10s snadwiched together. Put the sump in place and add a center brace. With every running fine the stand will be more then solid, if there is an emergency, remove the center brace and remove the sump. The stand should still be able to support the tank.

 

[dawnmarie]

I have used this method for tight spaces to span a large opening.
Its pretty bulletproof.

edit: I just noticed I left out the flat washer under the nut.

 

[takinap]

You could just leave it open, I have seen DOZENS of 265's that are double stacked and have no center brace.

 

[Toby_H]

edit: I just noticed I left out the flat washer under the nut.

...hand it here, I'll sit on it....

Sorry I had to...


As suggested by others, you could 'beef up' your cross members so that a center brace is not necessary.

But this still elaves you the problem of attaching your cabinet doors...

It would get complicated and be difficult (but not impossible) to keep looking nice... but you could have vertical door braces that were removeable, or hinged to swing up/down. Then attach the doors to these.


But if you want the stand to have a furniture quality finish, then I souldn't advise such an approach. Instead I would further consider makign the sump either top loading... or side loading...


If top loading, this would require removing the display tank, which I understand is going to be a very big step.

If side loading, this would require sliding the entire set up at an angle to the wall allowing room to remove it, which I understand is a very big step.

But realistically speaking, what is the liklihood this will ever be necessary? I'd hate to see you put a ton of extra time, work andn meterials into this and the end result not be nearly as attractive as you had hoped... just to give yourself a safety net that you never need or utilize...


Personally I'd rather the tank be wonderful for 99% of the time... and be a pain in the rear 1%... than be okay 100% of the time...

 

[Just Toby]

What sort of emergency are you expecting???

I would just use the tank, if a 3ft tank cracks or a 6ft tank cracks you end up with a very wet floor.