Getting a first tank help please?

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Tala:Wolf In Chains

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jun 26, 2009
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Idalou,Tx
I am going to get a 10 gallon tank kit as a first tank. I don't have any idea how to set it up. The tank comes with heater, filter, hood, lights, aquarium (of course), 4 inch net, food samples, and chemical samples.

Can any one give me any tips. How long I should wait to put fish in or any thing. I'm going to get gravel fake plants and a few decorations to and I'm only going to put around 4 to 6 guppies a pleco or two and 1 female betta in. Should I get test strips? Is 7.0 ph really neutral. What chemicals are best for starting up a new tank?

Any advice you have for me would be great. I have looked up alot of information on line about the fish in general, and the tank ph and amonia and reverse osmoses etc.

Thank you for your time.
 
dont put a pleco in there, itll get too big for a ten gallon.. itll probably start out too big for a ten gallon really, and yeah you should get some test strips, itll help you figure out whats wrong if your fish start acting screwy :) also itll help you make sure amonia and nitrites are always at ZERO, that is probably the most important thing when trying to keep your fish healthy and happy.the betta and the guppies should be fine though. there are all sorts of ways to start a tank cycling, it should take a bout a month to cycle fully and you should probably put fish food or ammonia in during the cycle to give the bacteria some food, you can also use bio spira to seed bacteria and shorten up the cycle or eliminate it completley. (the best way to cycle is use filter pads from an established tank or gravel but this dosent sound like an option for you)
seven is neutral yes, but different fish like different kinds of PH so its important to take that into consideration. bettas and guppies are pretty tough though so they probably wont care too much about your water chemistry so dont stress out if your tap water is hard or a little basic or a little acid. youre gonna want to use prime when you make your water to take out the chlorine and neutralize amonia and such, prime seems to be the most popular dechlorinator on this site.
try to use as few types of chemicals as you can get away with, and do weekly water changes with prime and your good to go :)

hope this helped!
 
Tala:Wolf In Chains;3389921; said:
I am going to get a 10 gallon tank kit as a first tank. I don't have any idea how to set it up. The tank comes with heater, filter, hood, lights, aquarium (of course), 4 inch net, food samples, and chemical samples.

Can any one give me any tips. How long I should wait to put fish in or any thing. I'm going to get gravel fake plants and a few decorations to and I'm only going to put around 4 to 6 guppies a pleco or two and 1 female betta in. Should I get test strips? Is 7.0 ph really neutral. What chemicals are best for starting up a new tank?

Any advice you have for me would be great. I have looked up alot of information on line about the fish in general, and the tank ph and amonia and reverse osmoses etc.

Thank you for your time.

Get a liquid test kit that does at least ammonia and nitrite. Most of them will do nitrAte and pH as well.

Don't get fake plants! Go real. Get easy, low-light plants, specifically anubias or java fern. Rubber-band these plants to driftwood or rocks, and they'll have attached themselves firmly within a month or two. Alternatively, they can be planted in substrate so that their rhizome (where the leaf stalks join the roots) is exposed to the light. Plants come with nitrifying bacteria on them and will speed up the cycling process, which I explain below:

Here's an explanation of the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium:
Fish and any rotting waste both release ammonia, an extremely toxic chemical. This chemical is metabolised by bacteria into nitrIte, which is another very toxic chemical. NitrIte is metabolised by a different kind of bacteria into nitrAte, which is relatively non-toxic but must be kept low (<40ppm typically) by water changes. The bacteria live on surfaces in the aquarium, not in the actual water.
The process of growing the necessary colonies of bacteria to keep ammonia and nitrite near 0ppm takes between two and six weeks.

My recommendation is to fishless cycle the aquarium. First, set the aquarium up with everything but fish, and turn the heater up to 85 if it's adjustable. Get some pure ammonia in water from ACE hardware if you have one in your area, most places only have ammonia with detergent in it, which you DON'T want. It took me 1.6 capfuls of ammonia to get to 5ppm in 75 gallons, so I recommend dividing that by 10 and going for a little over a tenth of a capful, then test. If over 5ppm, do a water change, if under 3ppm, add a little more ammonia. After that, wait a week and test for ammonia and nitrite. Ammonia should be lower or gone and nitrite should be present. If not, keep waiting, otherwise add some drops of ammonia to keep the ammonia->nitrite bacteria happy. Repeat until nitrite is zero, do an 80% water change and stock the tank completely with as many fish as is reasonable.
Keep ammonia away from children, avoid breathing the fumes and avoid dosing it with children in the room. Store it in a locked cabinet or take it home with you.

The reason for fishless cycling is because ammonia can burn fish, causing permenant injury if it doesn't kill them. It can be a lengthy process, but after it's complete you can be confident that your fish will be healthy and happy, provided the proper water temperature and regular water changes to keep nitrAte down.

That said, you can cycle with fish. You have to monitor ammonia and nitrite levels carefully, and do regular water changes to keep them below about 0.25 ppm. You DON'T need or want to add additional ammonia when cycling with fish in the tank.

Also, don't forget water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine. I recommend conditioning the water in a bucket outside of the tank so that you don't kill the aforementioned bacteria.

Lastly, make sure the tank equipment is connected to a GFCI. This is a seriously important safety device that cuts off the power if there are any dangerous problems with the equipment or if the power strip gets splashed. This could save the school from a fire or the children from death. The things cost about $10 at lowes, but here's a page with a picture of a few examples: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=18026
 
Lambrakopoulos;3390241; said:
Okay just looking at the size these answers is scary.
I didn't even read the answer above mine, but setting up an aquarium takes some basic knowledge of the nitrogen cycle.

I just realized I didn't mention stocking, RO water or pH.

Stocking: Fancy guppies+betta=betta. Bettas can be aggressive fish, especially toward anything with long and/or colorful fins.
Here's a list I made for another thread on aquariacentral.com (a part of the MFK network)
Betta - very pretty fish, aggressive towards other brightly colored/long finned fish, but can be kept with nondescript bottom dwellers like cory cats or Otocinclus.
Dwarf puffers - must be kept in a species-only tank. Very cute fish.
Cory cats - fun little fish, need to be kept in at least groups of 3 or more, preferably groups of 6 or more. The Venezuelan Pygmy Cory (Corydoras habrosus) stays down at about 1", the rest grow to 1.5-2.5".
Otocinclus - loricariid (suckermouth catfish/algae eater.) Stays around 2". Eats algae. Best kept in groups.
African Dwarf Frog - this frog lives its entire life underwater. Don't keep with aggressive fish like the betta.
Honey gouramis - grow to 2.5" and look pretty nice. Don't keep this one with a betta.
Red cherry shrimp - grow to 1", females are bright red, males are mostly clear with red splotches. Eat algae and stuff.
Try this for some other options:
http://theaquariumwiki.com/Stocking_a_10_Gallon_Tank

#1 thing is don't ever, ever let a pet store employee talk you into buying something without first researching how big it gets, how much space it needs, and how aggressive it is.

Water
: Dechlorinated tap water will do. RO water is completely void of any minerals, and you'll either need to mix it with tap water or add something like seachem's equilibrium if you want to keep hard water fish (guppies, mollies, platys)

pH: Don't try to change it with any ph-up or ph-down chemical, or any buffers that set the ph to something. Keep it stable. Pretty much don't worry about it unless it's extremely high or extremely low (less than 6.2 or greather than 8)
 
return the sucker for a something in the 20-30 gallon range if yah can you will get a lot more SATISFACTION from the tank and its inhabitants. or keep the ten and get a api liquid test kit, some amonia, cycle the little dude, and get some feeder guppys to try it out your skills on and once you have things down spend some $$$ on the fish you like that will enjoy the ten.

don't forget the prime, a 5 gallon bucket, and a siphon of any fish safe sort. the water changing musts. change the water once cycled by 25% weekly and so on.

Please enjoy your new hobby and smooth sailing to yah.
 
Wow thank you all for the info. I have just a few moe questions for you guys. Can I put guppies in a tank with no heater and can I use rocks that I have gathered outside and rinsed well.
 
Tala:Wolf In Chains;3393373; said:
Wow thank you all for the info. I have just a few moe questions for you guys. Can I put guppies in a tank with no heater and can I use rocks that I have gathered outside and rinsed well.

Depends on what your room temperature is. As long as it's around 72, you won't have any problems. I keep a 10 gallon at room temperature, and I used to keep a 46 gallon at room temperature. (Then there's a five, but that's coldwater. Also, if you want to use rocks you've collected you need to boil them.

Anyway, when I cycle a tank, I set everything up and run it for a day. Then I add one or two small fish (that aren't important because they might die). A week later, I can add more. Never add a lot of fish at once or else your tank might get overwhelmed.
 
Is 68 or 69 Close enough????
 
I wouldn't keep guppies in a ten gallon tank, and I wouldn't keep a guppy in a tank without a heater. If you try them in a ten, you'll need at least two or three females for every male, becuase the male will harass the female to death unless there are several over which he can spread his attentions. Then there will be babies, and if even a couple survive each time, the tank will quickly get overcrowded. They need warmer temps, at least 76 or 78, and in a ten gallon, temperatures fluctuate very quickly. Thus, a heater will keep the temperature stabilized, as well as keeping it warm. Tropical fish kept without warm water are prone to ich and infection that comes from having a lowered immune system. If you want to keep fish without having a heater, white cloud mountain minnows would be a good bet, and there are longer-finned varieties that are really pretty.
 
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