Getting a mantis, want to make sure I'm good to go

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loconorc

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Sep 11, 2007
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Hey all, I'm planning on having a mantis as my college dorm pet. I'm not sure what kind I'll be able to come across, but I'm gonna have a chat with the LFS and figure something out. I'm hoping this will be a relatively cheap endeavor, since all I need to buy is food, sand, and live rock if everything I already have is okay (tank, filter, heater, salt, water conditioner, light)

I have a 8 or 10 gallon acrylic hexagon tank with a top, which is my limit for the dorm, unfortunately. Can I use a hang-on Whisper filter that I used to use for my old danios? Ive been told mantises only require the most basic of basic filtration, and some people don't even use any beyond a weekly water change. I also have a small heater I used for the danios, should I do something do it to avoid the mantis breaking it? Ive been told they sometimes attack lights, but if I recall correctly, it doesnt have one.
Since this is only for the mantis (maybe I'll throw in the occasional damsel to brighten it up until it gets eaten), Ive read I can just use conditioned tap water left to sit for 24 hours with a salinity of around 1.022. I'll feed it meaty foods like shrimp and whatnot, frozen of course, but exactly what depends on its size, which I'm hoping is between 4 and 8 inches.

Most of what I've read (recently anyway, I was crazy about these a few years ago and read mountains of stuff) is from this website, which seems to be very reliable.

http://www.blueboard.com/mantis/care/maintain.htm

Am I missing anything terribly important here, or am I misinformed on anything? I know that wasn't exactly comprehensive, but I do plan on doing quite a bit more research before I buy it around July-August. From what I've heard, these things are practically bulletproof, and that all of the complicated crap with water chemistry and chemical levels associated with reef tanks and such can practically be thrown out the window (that stuff bores me to tears), as long as the tank is quote "clean".
 
I'm no expert on the chemistry required for mantis shrimp, im quite sure you are good to go. Just plop some live rock in there. I'd recommend a G. Smithii for you, as they are rather personal and hardy(so ive been told). Only part you might not like about them is they only get around 3-4 inches average.
 
Bluezooaquatics has a decent selection on mantis shrimp atm. Unless you plan on checking a LFS.
 
Oh, and if you want a larger shrimp, a G. Ternatensis is a decent choice for a 10g, but they are not quite as sociable or as hardy as the Smithii.
 
Do you think a peacock would be okay if I got a hold of a smaller individual? This would only be from September to May, afterwards my girlfriend and I are both renting an off-campus apartment where I can keep my other pets (reptiles) that will currently have to stay at home. My dorm limit is 10 gallons, and I can upgrade it (I have a 20 in the garage) as soon as I move. This is my favorite species, and since they live quite a long time it wouldn't be ideal for me to start smaller and "work my way up" (theyre not exactly difficult), cause then I'd be stuck with two, which is just more money to run yet another tank.
 
Well id say a peacock would work for awhile, depending on the size. If its around 3-5 inches sure, anything larger then id go straight for the 20g. Only problem with a peacock in a 10g imo would be it might bust the side if it gets excited or is chasing after prey.Hope your tank is acrylic.
 
The two species i posted above have less power in proportion to the peacock, so far less likely to bust a 10g, which a peacock could do if it certainly wanted to.
 
A ten gallon is not recommended for an O. scyllarus (peacock). The smallest specimens that you can usually find are around two inches and those are difficult to track down. The minimum for an adult is 30 gallons (around 5 inches). Personally I would start out with a smaller species for the ten gallon. N. wennerae would be idea for your dorm conditions, they are cheap, interactive, and simple to care for. G. smithii as mentioned is also a good choice, however from my conversations with other smithii keepers, they are not as interactive as most people think they will be. You could turn that 10 gallon into a nice reef/mantis tank easily and have a stunning display in your room. You will need to acquire either a titanium heater or use a heater cage to keep the mantis away from it. Ideally you would have a sump to put it in. My N. wennerae will actually attack powerheads at times and reacts violently to colorful lights. Stomatopods aren't completely bulletproof, they do not tolerate volatile chemicals (floor cleaners, lysol, ect...) or copper at all. They are very tolerant of extreme temps though (three of mine survived a 85 degree spike when the power went out). They are also tolerant of the usual nitrate range of 10-20 ppm. "smashers" require a hardshelled prey item (snail, hermit) about once a month to ensure proper raptorial appendage fitness or else they will rip off their own arms. Frozen cube foods such as squid, mysid, brine, krill, silversides ect... are proper foods. Selcon is a nutritional supplement which also promotes health. For a small smasher such as G. smithii, N. wennerae, they will molt about once every two or three weeks. Becareful when purchasing a mantis, know the species! Commonly people purchase a G. chiragra without knowing that it is extremely reclusive. I'll give more details/links to follow.
 
loconorc;4088820; said:
Do you think a peacock would be okay if I got a hold of a smaller individual? This would only be from September to May, afterwards my girlfriend and I are both renting an off-campus apartment where I can keep my other pets (reptiles) that will currently have to stay at home. My dorm limit is 10 gallons, and I can upgrade it (I have a 20 in the garage) as soon as I move. This is my favorite species, and since they live quite a long time it wouldn't be ideal for me to start smaller and "work my way up" (theyre not exactly difficult), cause then I'd be stuck with two, which is just more money to run yet another tank.

Most keepers will tell you for a Peacock that a 24g nano would be the absolute min. I have one in a 24g and wish I had a 29g or more. Filtration isnt all that important at all. The live rock will handle most all of that. I do recommend some form of mechanical to add to the live rock, these guys can be fairly messy eaters. The most maintenance I ever do to mine is a 25% water change, scrub the glass to keep algea off, and rinse the sponge when I do the water change. Thats it.
 
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