stupid question. I have a grounding probe and I have an external gfci for me to plug it into as I don’t have a gfci outlet next to my fish tank. For the grounding probe to work, do I want the red light on our off? With the red light on, current is made available to the plug but does that mean grounding is taking place?
GFCI stupid question
- Thread starter nzafi
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ok, re-read your post, your connected to a power strip , most likely one rated for over load, like a lightning strike, keep in mind they have one time use meaning if it trips its done and will need a new one, this is dif than a GFCI, this trips when any current causes a short, like a busted heater.
on your strip with your light on just means the plugs are energized. and if the wall its plugged into has a grounded socket, then its all grounded. but is not GFCI unless it says so on the strip.
on your strip with your light on just means the plugs are energized. and if the wall its plugged into has a grounded socket, then its all grounded. but is not GFCI unless it says so on the strip.
Can you post a pic?
I run a ground probe in all of my tanks, with all electrical appliances being ran through a GFCI protected power bar. If a piece of equipment leaks stray current, there is no risk to my fish, or myself, as the GFCI will kill the power source & I will immediately know that I have a problem somewhere, and can rectify it.
See post #23 (and beyond) of the following past discussion for more info.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...458766-electricity-in-tank-how-to-test-for-it
I run a ground probe in all of my tanks, with all electrical appliances being ran through a GFCI protected power bar. If a piece of equipment leaks stray current, there is no risk to my fish, or myself, as the GFCI will kill the power source & I will immediately know that I have a problem somewhere, and can rectify it.
See post #23 (and beyond) of the following past discussion for more info.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...458766-electricity-in-tank-how-to-test-for-it
Do you have a picture of the GFCI power bar you use?
Right now I am using the one in the below link. I think it tripped on me which is why I am confused. When the red light is on, there is device plugged to it will work. If I push test (black button) then the red light goes off and the device plugged in will no longer work. I guess this means it tripped?
I found the red light off yesterday, and I am trying to figure out if that means something tripped it. If so, I need to start diagnosing the issue as I don't want stray voltage in my tank. It caused enough probably last time that resulted in my aimara getting heavily scarred.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tower-M...BEgKZPfD_BwE&dclid=CPTc5tTYgtoCFZcKgQodW7IFLQ
Hello; I may get this wrong but do not think a GFCI will help with stray voltage in the tank exactly. That has been in my experience related to the equipment used in and around a tank. Use to be much more of a problem back when tanks had metal frames and covers and light hoods made of stainless steel.
With all glass tanks and plastic hoods the problem is much less. The two main culprits for me have been light fixtures and heaters. I can also see how a filter system might develop a path for stray current. Most all the time it was moisture getting into the circuitry some how. My early light hoods were made of stainless steel or sheet steel with nothing between the water and the actual incandescent bulbs. Splashes and condensation had an easy path to the light sockets. I got stung many times until the simple fix of placing a sheet of glass under the light.
What likely will happen (I think) with a GFCI is that it will trip often if you have stray current.
That your current strip has a reset button likely means it has some form of circuit interruption and may be an actual GFCI. My guess is the red light indicates that it is tripped.
If it is not a true GFCI then it may not be as sensitive as they are. That would indicate to me that you have some serious shorting going on or voltage power line spikes. It may be a power strip with only a high voltage spike circuit, spikes such as lightning strikes in the area or some sort of other power surges. These power strips are to protect sensitive things like TV's and computers. You may have one of these. They do not give the same personal protection as a GFCI.
Another choice is to have the circuit breaker that feeds the aquariums replaced in the breaker box with a GFCI circuit breaker. That will protect any device fed by that particular breaker.
No need to overcomplicate things, the OP has a GFCI device (as per the link) and a grounding probe running in his tank. Anyone that doesn't understand how the two work together can read the link that I initially posted.
The GFCI protected power bar that I use was purchased at Canadian Tire, so probably won't help you much, nzafi. lol They all work in the same general manner, when the GFCI device senses a small change or fluctuation in current, it trips, and turns off. This link gives a decent explanation how to test them. http://www.popkinelectric.com/2017/07/12/everything-need-know-gfci-outlets/
And of course even GFCI devices can fail, even when brand new out of the box.
The GFCI protected power bar that I use was purchased at Canadian Tire, so probably won't help you much, nzafi. lol They all work in the same general manner, when the GFCI device senses a small change or fluctuation in current, it trips, and turns off. This link gives a decent explanation how to test them. http://www.popkinelectric.com/2017/07/12/everything-need-know-gfci-outlets/
And of course even GFCI devices can fail, even when brand new out of the box.