Help. First time building a sump.

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Jmart159

Piranha
MFK Member
Jul 13, 2009
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Tampa, Florida
Hey everyone. I could really use some help. I'm finally getting around to setting up my 210 and I wanted to build a sump for it out of an old 55g I have in storage. I'm not really sure where to start. I guess the first thing I ought to ask is, what pump would you recommend? I plan on having around 6 fish in there all around the 12" mark. So, I would like a decent turnover rate. Also, the tank sits pretty high up I would guess it has a head of 5.5 feet or more. Also, I think I would prefer a submersible pump. I'll save the plumbing questions for later. Thanks.
 
I've just started using the Laguna brand pumps in the last year or so (I use a couple 55 gal tanks as sumps), and find they are quiet, according to specs use minimal power, and the casing that surrounds the pump, keeps large debris out. (make sure you have enough head room between tank an sump to fit the pump, and to fit your arms in to do maintenance)
I use the 2000, and 2400 gph units. But what kind of fish you have, will determine what flow rate you choose.
I keep fish from rivers that are fast flowing, and highly oxygenated such as Tomocichla in 150 gal tanks with those pumps, which is why the higher pumpage rate.
If you keep backwater types that require less flow, and dissolved oxygen level, you may choose to use less pumpage.
 
Here's a link to my sump/tank build. Hope this helps with some questions. I used a CPR overflow because I was unsure of drilling tanks but at this point in my 'hobby' career, I would always drill a tank from here on out. Good luck and I look forward to some updates!

Here's my link - http://cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=246505

I used a 30gal rather than a 55gal but you'll get the idea.

- H
 
+1 for Laguna pumps.

The design is entirely up to you, I'm presuming you at least want it to perform biological and mechanical filtration? So you obviously need something to catch the physical waste coming in (socks, floss, foam, etc), then some sort of media for the bacteria colony to form on (noodles, bioballs, matrix, pot scrubbies, foam, K1, basically anything with a surface!). You'll need room in there somewhere for your pump and heaters too, and if you want you can consider things like plants for nitrate removal [pothos], drains for auto water changing, chemical filtration, etc etc. You need enough water to keep your pump submerged in the last compartment so it doesn't suck in air, and enough empty space so that it doesn't overflow when the pump switches off.

You could make it as simple as a couple of filter socks hanging at one end and a few bags of matrix/ceramic media sitting in the bottom, no baffles or anything. Or you could get carried away with the design and come up with all sorts of other options.
 
I have a 75g sump with no baffles. 3 socks with sock hangers and media bags with ceramic rings and matrix. Works perfectly, no complaints. I also run dual Laguna 2000's and love them.
 
Your drain size if going to be the limiting factor in regards to how many GPH you can run through your sump.

There are so many different flow charts for drain size I really have no idea at this point how much you can push through different sized plumbing. There are lots of variables that make it tough to give a precise answer in regards to what will work. One safe bet is to get a pump that may push the limits of what you anticipate your drain can handle and either valve the pump back or "T" the return off so that some falls back into your sump.

If your bulkhead drain is at least 1.5" I would go with a Laguna Max flo 2400; according to their flow chart, it will do 1,664GPH @ 6' head while drawing only 84 watts. That will give you about 8x per hour.

Here's the 2013 Product Catalog for Laguna if you want to check out their flow charts: http://www.lagunaponds.com/lagunaeng/careguides/LagunaPond-GTWG-2013-English.pdf

Good luck!
 
I've built several styles of sumps. The one outlined in the 300 build in my sig is pretty simple, practically silent and flood proof. Used an empty 75, no baffles and can support an enormous load.

The ones I use in my garage are a bit different as I use the same idea but with a 32 gallon brute and no pond boxes. Water enters filter socks, moves through submerged bio into the pump and back up to the tank. They are a little noisier but it doesn't matter in the garage.


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Wow! Thanks so much. I didn't expect so much good feedback this quickly. I appreciate all the help. Just a few extra bits of information I probably should have included the first time around... The tank has an overflow in each corner and has 1 3/4" holes already drilled in it.
 
Wow! Thanks so much. I didn't expect so much good feedback this quickly. I appreciate all the help. Just a few extra bits of information I probably should have included the first time around... The tank has an overflow in each corner and has 1 3/4" holes already drilled in it.

If the holes are 1.75", they should accommodate standard 1" bulkhead fittings. With two 1" drains, you should be ok running the Max Flo 2000 or the Max Flo 2400. I think the 2900 and the 4280 models will overpower your drains, so I would stick with the 2000 or the 2400.

As others have mentioned, there are lots of options for designing your sump; filtering out particulates (mechanical filtration) and having plenty of surface area for your beneficial bacteria (biological filtration) are all you really need. I like to keep it as simple as possible and just have my overflows drain into filter socks and I use submersible media (Pond Matrix) for my bio. With this design, you really don't even need baffles.

Filter socks require a bit more maintenance than foam in that socks will typically have to be cleaned about once a week; although it is a pain, removing the waste that the socks catch is good for the health of your fish. Using foam you can go a lot longer between cleaning, but the waste trapped in it is essentially rotting fecal matter and will contribute to higher nitrate levels until cleaned.

*If you decide to use filter socks, just be sure that when they clog, the overflowing water falls in the sump and not on your floor. At some point they will clog, so be sure you take this into consideration in your design.

Good luck!
 
If the holes are 1.75", they should accommodate standard 1" bulkhead fittings. With two 1" drains, you should be ok running the Max Flo 2000 or the Max Flo 2400. I think the 2900 and the 4280 models will overpower your drains, so I would stick with the 2000 or the 2400.

As others have mentioned, there are lots of options for designing your sump; filtering out particulates (mechanical filtration) and having plenty of surface area for your beneficial bacteria (biological filtration) are all you really need. I like to keep it as simple as possible and just have my overflows drain into filter socks and I use submersible media (Pond Matrix) for my bio. With this design, you really don't even need baffles.

Filter socks require a bit more maintenance than foam in that socks will typically have to be cleaned about once a week; although it is a pain, removing the waste that the socks catch is good for the health of your fish. Using foam you can go a lot longer between cleaning, but the waste trapped in it is essentially rotting fecal matter and will contribute to higher nitrate levels until cleaned.

*If you decide to use filter socks, just be sure that when they clog, the overflowing water falls in the sump and not on your floor. At some point they will clog, so be sure you take this into consideration in your design.

Good luck!

I agree and one thing you might consider when designing your sump is the location of the socks and how easy they are to change. With a blank tank without baffles, you have the option of moving socks wherever its easiest for you to change them.
I have a 2 minute feed timer built into my big tank to kill the pumps and I use this setting to change the socks.... and that's about all the maintenance that tank needs. Other than water changes....

Less than 2 minutes once a week.


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