HELP ICK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
H

hedingtongreg

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Dec 3, 2005
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North East Indiana
Though this is not in one of my monster tanks I would still like advice.
I have a 75ga that my wifes mollies have taken over,( i olny have four loaches and a eel in my biggest tank that will change). Any how one of the mollies started swimming funy so i took a look. One swordtail is covered, and one molly dosent look good either. The rest of the fish look fine. I moved my big loaches into their own tank, along with the eel. I am treating the tank with cure ick. I have a book that suggests i increase the heat 2 degrees an hour till i get to 88 then leave it there for 10 days. (sounds like a bad idea)

Help what sould I do. Any better ideas, or dose that sound about right?
 
Symptoms
The main symptom of this disease is the small sugar-grain like spots which give the disease one of its common names. Fish may also rub against hard objects. In advanced stages, fish may be observed gasping and gill damage may be apparent.

Causes
The disease is caused by a protozoan parasite, Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, and is very contagious. The parasites spend a portion of their life cycle embedded beneath the skin of the fish, where they feed from the body tissue. The white cyst in which they are enclosed gives the characteristic white spots. Adults emerge from these cysts and fall to the floor of the aquarium, where they multiply inside a protective capsule. Some time later, the capsule bursts, releasing hundreds of free-swimming infectious parasites which attach themselves to new hosts. Whitespot is often introduced with new fish which have not been quarantined. Outbreaks of whitespot often occur after fish have been exposed to cooler than normal temperatures. Clown loaches are particularly prone to whitespot.

Possible cures
There are two main approaches to curing whitespot, and opinions vary on which is the more effective. There are several effective commercially available remedies, normally based on malachite green and formalin. Note that malachite green is hard on scaleless fish like catfish and loaches, and also other fish such as tetras. Some alternative medications are based on copper and formalin. The other method employed is to add salt to the tank (gradually), up to a level of 6-8 tsp per gallon. Note that fish vary in their tolerance of salt, and for more sensitive soft-water species, it may be better to use 3-4 tsp per gallon maximum. Higher salt levels may also affect plant growth.

In either case, increasing the temperature should kill the parasite off more quickly, because it will speed up the life cycle of the parasite, so that the free-swimming stage is reached as quickly as possible - this is the only stage affected by medications. However, increasing the temperature means there will be less oxygen dissolved in the water (some medications can lower it too), so ensure the tank is well aerated, and do not raise the temperature beyond around 28oC (82oF).

Due to the life cycle of the parasite, the whole tank must be treated, in order to kill the parasites which are not attached to fish. Therefore it is not appropriate to treat only the affected fish in a separate isolation tank.

Effective commercial remedies include Protozin by Waterlife and Maracide by Mardel Labs.

http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/hdwspot.htm

hope this helps
 
you want to raise the temp. i had ick a couple times. raise the temp tell they look good then drop back down. the reason why you raise the temp is bc it speeds up the cycle of the parasite. ya that sounds bad :confused: . but its good bc when you see the white spot i guess thats like a dorment state or something and the the meds you are puting in the tank will not kill it tell it trys to spred. so when you raise the heat it makes them grow faster and spread and then there open for the meds to kill. but i guess you dont haft to raise the temp but it might take a little longer :( . thats what i do and i have had it a couple times and thats what i do. im no expert like other mfk here but thats my input. good luck
 
I always like the salt route, I have used medsbut they didn't seem to work any better then the salt.

I use 1 cup of salt for every 30 gal of water and raise the temp to around 81deg. Works every time.


PS some plecos aren't as tollerent to salt so if you have them you might check before you use it.

It would be a good idea to find out about your fish before you get ich so you will be able to treat quickly.
 
I prefer the salt method (2 teaspoons per gallon @ 85-88 degrees for 10 days) to meds, I have never had it fail. The temp makes sure all the parasites reach the motile stage where they will be killed. Mollies will tolerate that very well. You may wish to add an airstone or powerhead to increase surface motion during treatment. Watch the eel and loaches as well as they have been exposed.
 
guppy said:
I prefer the salt method (2 teaspoons per gallon @ 85-88 degrees for 10 days) to meds, I have never had it fail. The temp makes sure all the parasites reach the motile stage where they will be killed. Mollies will tolerate that very well. You may wish to add an airstone or powerhead to increase surface motion during treatment. Watch the eel and loaches as well as they have been exposed.
Click to expand...
I agree wholeheartedly I am scared of most meds and do not prefer to use them but I really like Quick cure and salt clears up most outbreaks in a day or two no kidding! if you cannot find quick cure which you should if you have a pet store use any medication which contains malachite green good stuff...
 
what kind of salt do you guys use. what brands and where can i get it you guys are making me want to use it next time i get ick
 
Just reg aquarium salt.... NOT saltwater salt. :grinyes:

Guppy and I always disagree about the exact amount to use but we always agree that salt is the way........ some day he will admit I'm right. :ROFL:
 
well ill just haft to pick between u two then
 
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