HELP!!! SERIOUS Gh and Kh issues!!!

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Rommy

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 24, 2009
12
0
0
Australia
I have been having slight issues with my tank for a while now. I have steadily lost fish since i started the tank part way through this year. Firstly, my old fish from my old tank were ok, and slowly most of them have died (such as a large angel fish, a blind cave tetra, tiger barbs etc), with only a few of the bigger ones still survivng such as a bleeding heart tetra and a 15cm BGK. many of my newer fish have also died, including some blue rams, my whiptail catfish and my bristlenose. ATM, the fish that are surviving are the bleeding heart tetra, a congo tetra, a small angelfish, an elephant nose, a BGK, a handful of rogue danios, a large male bristle nose, and some little khuli loaches.

the tank was set up using mostly SERA products (which i have always used and never had a problem with). to begin with i also used some aquarium salts to increase the hardness of the water (which my tests told me was extremely soft). I tested the pH and it was fine albeit a little high. i put a plant in there and left it for a week, stuck some danios in there and left it for another week-week and a half before introducing some of my older fish.

I might add as a side note that the water was cloudy until after i added some fish (even with a fluval 305 running off it). i use natural black gravel (which i washed out until the water coming out was clear) and a river sand substrate.

The tank went well for a while. Then a few fish died, so we went to have the water properly tested at a store. We were told the nitrate and ammonia levels were at emergency levels so we did some major water changes, used Prime and added an ammonia warning tag. However after a while i started to become concerned for the water in the tank, as the pH tests was suggesting that (despite me adding SERA pH Down and adding both neutral and acidic water during water changes) the pH had crept up to a staggering 7.6-8.0!

i tested the Kh and Gh with a new test, and found that to my surprise, the Gh was sitting well well above >12 dKH (214.8ppm) and that the Kh was sitting at or below 1dKH (17.9). now i am anything but an expert, but i am pretty sure this isnt good. and possibly what is causing the steady die-off in my tank?

i had for a while been blindly trying to lower the hardness in the tank (having been told that softer water, while being more suseptable to pH spikes etc generally tends to be slightly acidic) as the fish i keep and wish to continue keeping mostly come from soft/acidic water regions. I have been doing this both by using drift wood in the tank and peat in the filter. Neither have affected the pH, but I suspect perhaps they are what have caused my Kh to become so low?

As for the Gh levels, in my limited experiance i have no way fo explaining them. there are no shells in my tank, i use river sand, free from shell grit, and to my knowledge, the black gravel is just plain river gravel.

With all of this in mind, i was wondering if anyone out there could not only try to help explain these diasterous levels, but also try to help me correct them... i dont know how many gallons my tank is (being an Australian) but i do know it is about 144 Litres.
My levels in my tank i wish to acheive are a Gh of 3-6 dKH (50-100), a Kh of the same and a pH of 6.6-7.0.

if anyone at all can help me/tell me if my problems (such as loosing so many fish) relate back to the hardness i would be forever appreciative,
thankyou all so much,
Rommy
 
i just went and tested the tap water that i use to refill my tank. i found that the Gh and Kh levels are identical to those in my tank. pH from memory is generally around 7.6-7.4 from tap. what does this suggest is in the water to cause such bizarre hardness levels?
 
Im not sure what TDS's are in your water, could be a number of things. I do know however if you want soft/acidic but stable water, RO/DI is the way to go, then just re-mineralize it.
 
thankyou, this is very helpful, though now i have to ask, how do i go about doing this to the water? and (this may be a sily question, but i just want to be sure) how do i re-minseralise it? and with what?
thankyou again
 
RO/DI water, is when you use a Revers Osmosis/ De Ionizer filter to filter your water, when you do this it will remove almost if not ALL TDS, and anything els in the water. I mean EVERYTHING...this water is not healthy for the fish, so.. you have to use a buffer (re mineralizer) like SeaChem or Kent "RO rite" or whatever they call it. The RO units can be relatively cheap or as expensive as you want, and the buffer is cheap, but its the only surefire way I know of to make sure you have perfict water to start with and complete control over you water paramiters 100% of the time. It also makes killer drinking water lol. Just google "RO filter" or "reverse osmosis unit" .... and "RO water buffer", there is a lot of research to do in the world of water chem. Just depends on if you want to drop the $ for it and if doing it is worth it too you.
 
ok, so just as a clarification:
by using RO/DI water, this will essentially pull both the Kh ang Gh back to 0 and remove most TDS, and re-mineralisation will increase them all to a safe level for soft water fish? Will doing this help me to pull my pH back and maintain it at 6.8-7.0 as well?
would using a product like this: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/NeutralRegulator.html
re-mineralise the water to the right level? is this the sort of thing i want to use?

correct me if i am wrong, but isnt re-mineralising the water after putting it through a RO/DI filter simply putting the same things back in the water?
thanks again for the info,
rommy
 
Rommy;3547486; said:
ok, so just as a clarification:
by using RO/DI water, this will essentially pull both the Kh ang Gh back to 0 and remove most TDS, and re-mineralisation will increase them all to a safe level for soft water fish? Will doing this help me to pull my pH back and maintain it at 6.8-7.0 as well?
would using a product like this: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/NeutralRegulator.html
re-mineralise the water to the right level? is this the sort of thing i want to use?

correct me if i am wrong, but isnt re-mineralising the water after putting it through a RO/DI filter simply putting the same things back in the water?
thanks again for the info,
rommy

I use Seachems Equilibrium and Alkaline buffer for my Amazon tank with RO/DI water, the peat moss and drift wood add Humic acid to balance the pH. The neutral regulator is a mix of Acid buffer and Alkaline buffer. It will work to keep you pH stable. However it will not increase your GH which for South American fish should eb low but not Zero. You can use the Neutral Regulator with but you still need to adjust the GH with either Equilibrium or KENT RO Right as noted above.

As far as adding the stuff the RO unit removed. That's party correct, when you add back Equilibroum or RO Right you are adding Clacium, Magnesium, and a few other ions. You are not adding back chlorine and chloramines or any of the other municipal water conditioners. Also if you add the mineral the change water will be constant. I've seen my tap fluxutate by up to 5 dKH and dGH over time. Reconstituted RO water will always be the same if you use the same amount of addiative.
 
ok, i understand now, it is basically adding it back into the aquarium at the level you want it at. thankyou both so much for all of your help. now the ohly thing left to do is go and price RO/DI units and se where i can get a much wider range of seachem products :P
thanks again :D
 
Hey Idk if your still keeping up with this thread, but RO/DI units will remove any harmful metals as well, Copper, Mercury or anything els that might be in your tap.
 
thats great to know... hey just as a point of clarification, would just a straight RO purifier do the job? or does it really need to DI as well? just in having a look around where i live, the cheapest RO/DI filter i could find was about au$1500, where as the RO unit was only au$250. being a poor uni student, i dont really have $1500 to spend right now, so i was just wondering how well a RO unit alone would work, and how different a job it would do as opposed the the RO/DI filter
 
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