one of my RTGG's is sick. i noticed that he was moping around the bottom of the take today. then i saw that he had some white stringy stuff hanging out of him. i forget what it's called, but i know it's not normal. does anyone know what i should do? i'm thinking it has someting to do with his diet, but i've been feeding him a varity of foods, frozen bloodworms, mealworms, frozen shrimp, lettuce,and his main staple is hikari bio-gold chchlid pellets (which i feed at least once a day). the other fish in the tank are fine though (another RTGG, p.bass, and an inc. shark), so maybe its not his diet. can anyone help? he's my biggest, most favorite fish and i don't want to lose him.
help...sick RTGG!!!
- Thread starter KurseD
- Start date
Try the antibiotic dosed foods like the one made by Jungle. Also check your water parameters and make sure that none of your foods have gotten moldy.
ph is still neutral at 7.0, i do a 25% water change every other week. the dry food seems ok, it doesn't appear to be moldy, to do sure about the frozen stuff. i can't tell, i'm heading to check for some med. frist thing in the morning, do you have any idea what the white stringy stuff is called? "falttulent something" my oscar had it acouple years ago, a week later he got whole in the head and died. thanks for all your help.
Flatulent?! That is bad!
with all kidding aside, that stringy slime sounds like a fungus. antibiotic as recommended by guppy is a great idea. maybe change water often, 50% every 3 days, add salt to aid in prevention of stress, and infections. what is the water temp?
with all kidding aside, that stringy slime sounds like a fungus. antibiotic as recommended by guppy is a great idea. maybe change water often, 50% every 3 days, add salt to aid in prevention of stress, and infections. what is the water temp?
i googled it and it gave me "intestinal flagellates"...my temp is around 78-80. not ecxatly sure what caused it yet. none of my other fish have it. maybe it's something he ate, but the only thing he eats that the other fish in the tank don't eat is earthworms (becuase he always gets to them first)
live feeders? occasionally, but not recently. maybe around 2 weeks ago, and the p. bass usually gobbles them up before he can get to them. next time he has it i'll snap a pic, it fell off last night. hopefully he won't get it again.though, he's still mopeing around the tank and not his usual skittish self.
Oh yes, I have dealt with this type of decease on numerous accounts, but not with aros. Fish carry varous forms of internal parasites, which remain dorment until environmental conditions activates them. 'Stress' is the main contributor; cooler water temps, competing for terrority and food, high traffic areas around the tank, poor water chemistry.
Being an owner of several types of exotic aros.... I suggest that you use FURAN2, it works the best for me!
What size type is it housed in?
What tankmates are/is housed with it? [seperate the RTG from them]
* Your pH is fine.
* Increase water temp to 86 degrees
* Increase oxygen; air stone, difuser, etc
* If treating with others meds, do a 25% water change [aged water preferred] and add carbon for a min of 4hrs to remove the meds, then treat with FURAN2.
* NO MORE LIVE FOODS!!!, unless crickets, meal worms, superworms.
NOTE: 'Aged Water' - I use a 55gal storage container filled with tap water, add water conditioner [Prime], air stone, and heater... for a min 4hrs before adding Discus Buffer to adjust pH, then 1hr later, use it as 'Replacement water'.
Your pbass may have adjusted to the use of adding straight tap water, BUT your RTG will suffer from it, especially any amount of water replacement over 10% and if he is less then 12 inches in length.
Adding salt is not a bad idea at this point, but be sure not to over do it.... more stress on the RTG.
I hope this helps! Good Luck!
Being an owner of several types of exotic aros.... I suggest that you use FURAN2, it works the best for me!
What size type is it housed in?
What tankmates are/is housed with it? [seperate the RTG from them]
* Your pH is fine.
* Increase water temp to 86 degrees
* Increase oxygen; air stone, difuser, etc
* If treating with others meds, do a 25% water change [aged water preferred] and add carbon for a min of 4hrs to remove the meds, then treat with FURAN2.
* NO MORE LIVE FOODS!!!, unless crickets, meal worms, superworms.
NOTE: 'Aged Water' - I use a 55gal storage container filled with tap water, add water conditioner [Prime], air stone, and heater... for a min 4hrs before adding Discus Buffer to adjust pH, then 1hr later, use it as 'Replacement water'.
Your pbass may have adjusted to the use of adding straight tap water, BUT your RTG will suffer from it, especially any amount of water replacement over 10% and if he is less then 12 inches in length.
Adding salt is not a bad idea at this point, but be sure not to over do it.... more stress on the RTG.
I hope this helps! Good Luck!
Flatulent is defined in the english dictionary as "pompus or bloated", state of having excessive gas. The stringy stuff hanging on your gourami, is it coming from the anus? Hope he's just constipated, and it will "pass". Cover your nose when he passes the gas. J/K. 
Flagellates in people cause "beaver fever" and can be very disabling, In people it is caused by drinking contaminated water but in fish it is almost always from feeder fish. it can take months to develope after exposure. It does respond well to several types of medicated foods, use the antiparasitical rather than antibiotic ones, dino flagellates are quite resistant to standard antibiotics. There are several products that work well, anything that includes metronidazole does, two prepared medicated foods are Jungle Antiparasite Medicated Food and Thera-A antiparasite food. They can come in with frozen tubifex worms but I don't know about blackworms and they sometimes hitchhike on plants. The disease can go on for months if untreated and secondary bacterial infections often kill the fish. Several sources suggest feeding antiparasite food for 10 days followed by a nitrosulfamide antibiotic like Furan2 as that will get all the types and take care of opportunistic bacteria as well.