I have a 44 gallon pentagon tank with a floor space of 20" Length X 20" Depth X 24" Height. I plan on making it a beautiful reef tank during the next several months. For filtration I'm going to have 60 pounds of live rock, hopefully the select lalo Live Rock from drsfostersmith, and live sand, with a protein skimmer ( not sure on model yet). I would like to have several inverts, they are: An arrow crab, 2 halloween hermit crabs, 6 dwarf blue leg hermit crabs, 1 banded coral shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, cleaner shirmp ( AKA scarlet skunk), blue tuxedo pincushion urchin, A fighting conch or two, 6-12 bumble bee snails, 5 super tongan nassarius snails, a Feather duster, 1 or 2 super colored corcea clams, a brittle or serpent sea star ( any reccomendations?), and 1 or 2 other species of star maybe blue linckia and thats it for inverts. Then for the fish species I was looking at: 1 Royal Gramma Basselet, 3 Catalina Gobies, 3 Purple Firefish, 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish, (Could I do a Yellow Tang, Powder Blue Tang, or Achilles Tang in the tank?), 1 Yellow tail Damselfish, 1 Fridmani Pseudochromis, and a species of filefish that I saw in a TFH magazine I think that could be kept in a reef tank no problem. I don't want anyone to think that I'm just selecting random fish and inverts, but I have spent quite a bit of time looking for fish and inverts that I think are pretty peacefull and can coexist, but if you see any problems please let me know. Now the parts where I REALLY need help is lighting and coral selection. I would like to get several really beautiful corals, but I have no idea how far apart you are supposed to space each one, and whether or not they can coexist. Some corals I really like are: the short tentacle plate coral, white bubble coral, favites brain coral, Green fluorescent mushroom coral, Ricordea mushroom blue/green caribbean, tree corals, super colored polyp colony, German Acropora, Blastomussa merletti, Green Birds Nest Coral, Red Candy Cap Coral, Purple Passion Tree Coral. I have never understood all of the different types of lighting and really anything about them, but they're a nessecary evil for the reef tank, so does anyone have any advice? If you need the Scientific names for any of these don't reasearch it you have done enough work reading this so just let me know and I'll get it.
Help with compatibilty in new saltwater tank
- Thread starter Kobi9019
- Start date
Also let me know if I'm way overstocked, I also have a penguin 200 I can use as a filter, and in what order I should add each invert/fish. Sorry for the long post and thanks for the help.
As for the serpent stars- no, they will eat any invert that they can get at, even the brittle stars arent ideal, i would stick to the stars in Linkia genus
You might want to check on the shrimp with you LFS, i would say that the CBS is going to get big and out compete the other shrimp
Catelina gobies are temperate water fish, so if you plan on doing them get a chiller (65 F max)
The tangs will get to big (8" + gaurenteed)
The Royal Garama and the Fridmani might fight, so i would say be safe and choose your favorite and stick to that
As far as corals go: you look good in terms of requirements of light and current, the minor details can get fixed by placing some lower in the tanks or behind rocks as cover from current.
That brings up your next issue...light. This is gonna be confusing
. The general idea is to get as many Watts as possible, this is easiest with Metal halides, but can also be done with power compacts. The power compacts are less expensive, but not as powerfull (your clams wont be happy, same as your other corals). The metal halides go for hundreds more, but will provide enough light for your clams and stony corals. A base wattage for your tank should be in theory 150 Watts. If you can find a power compact that can get that much wattage in a 20" fixture awsome, but probobly not so your going to need halides.
Filtration - Do you plan on having your tank on a stand? If so then use a sump (Marineland has some good ones, or CPR USA, or cheap and easy a plastic container from Target). The sump will increase the volume of the tank making it more stable and winter evaporation will be less painfull. Also sumps are the best place to add any chemicals or new water as there are no corals that can get stressed. Also a sump is a great place for a protein skimmer (if it leaks or overflows, the water doesnt get everywhere). Speaking of protein skimmers, dont skimp here, you really do get what you pay for. Try and get one that has a solid base, not circular, a tall viewing tower, and a collection cup that you can easily remove for cleaning.
Rock and sand - DONT ORDER LIVE ROCK ONLINE!!!! this is the one thing i dont really understand, while prices are great online you dont get to see what pieces you are getting and how they are going to fit together in the tank. I suggest that you go to your LFS and get live rock piece by piece, this will allow you to build a good structure and not have any left over rock, or any rock that had to be chipped away. Also, online you pay for the curing, whereas your LFS cures it in their holding tanks/display tanks. The amount of sand you should have is about 35-40 lbs. This will give you a 1 1/2" layer of sand, however, because you want nassarius snails, consider going more, say around 45-50 lbs.
You might want to check on the shrimp with you LFS, i would say that the CBS is going to get big and out compete the other shrimp
Catelina gobies are temperate water fish, so if you plan on doing them get a chiller (65 F max)
The tangs will get to big (8" + gaurenteed)
The Royal Garama and the Fridmani might fight, so i would say be safe and choose your favorite and stick to that
As far as corals go: you look good in terms of requirements of light and current, the minor details can get fixed by placing some lower in the tanks or behind rocks as cover from current.
That brings up your next issue...light. This is gonna be confusing
. The general idea is to get as many Watts as possible, this is easiest with Metal halides, but can also be done with power compacts. The power compacts are less expensive, but not as powerfull (your clams wont be happy, same as your other corals). The metal halides go for hundreds more, but will provide enough light for your clams and stony corals. A base wattage for your tank should be in theory 150 Watts. If you can find a power compact that can get that much wattage in a 20" fixture awsome, but probobly not so your going to need halides. Filtration - Do you plan on having your tank on a stand? If so then use a sump (Marineland has some good ones, or CPR USA, or cheap and easy a plastic container from Target). The sump will increase the volume of the tank making it more stable and winter evaporation will be less painfull. Also sumps are the best place to add any chemicals or new water as there are no corals that can get stressed. Also a sump is a great place for a protein skimmer (if it leaks or overflows, the water doesnt get everywhere). Speaking of protein skimmers, dont skimp here, you really do get what you pay for. Try and get one that has a solid base, not circular, a tall viewing tower, and a collection cup that you can easily remove for cleaning.
Rock and sand - DONT ORDER LIVE ROCK ONLINE!!!! this is the one thing i dont really understand, while prices are great online you dont get to see what pieces you are getting and how they are going to fit together in the tank. I suggest that you go to your LFS and get live rock piece by piece, this will allow you to build a good structure and not have any left over rock, or any rock that had to be chipped away. Also, online you pay for the curing, whereas your LFS cures it in their holding tanks/display tanks. The amount of sand you should have is about 35-40 lbs. This will give you a 1 1/2" layer of sand, however, because you want nassarius snails, consider going more, say around 45-50 lbs.
I would stay away from the bumblebee snails as they will eat other sesile inverts. I would also skip the arrow crap for the same reason and because it will go after you other crabs etc. You might also consider getting two cleaners as they are much more interesting as a pair. I would also consider redlegged or red reef crabs as the blue legs are rather more aggresive and often times will harras other crabs and inverts. You should also make shure that have a lot of empty shells lying about for them or they will murder your snails and other hermits.
You'll also want to make sure that your corals and soft corals sweeper tenticals can't reach any other of your corals. The only exception will be for frags or clones from the same colony. You also should think long and hard about mixing too many softies with too many sps species. They have a little bio-chemical warfare and can cause quite the crash in your tank. I would probably start out with the softies on your list or lps they are much easier to handle . It will also give you some practice with additives and keeping your system stable. FWIW, you might also consider a larger set up if you are really interested in s.w. most of your cost will be in your lights not the tank or pumps .
I do hope this helps you and if you have any more questions post away. This is one of the few posts on mfk that I'm qualified to reply to
You'll also want to make sure that your corals and soft corals sweeper tenticals can't reach any other of your corals. The only exception will be for frags or clones from the same colony. You also should think long and hard about mixing too many softies with too many sps species. They have a little bio-chemical warfare and can cause quite the crash in your tank. I would probably start out with the softies on your list or lps they are much easier to handle . It will also give you some practice with additives and keeping your system stable. FWIW, you might also consider a larger set up if you are really interested in s.w. most of your cost will be in your lights not the tank or pumps .
I do hope this helps you and if you have any more questions post away. This is one of the few posts on mfk that I'm qualified to reply to
the shrimps are also likely to fight if thy don't out compete eachother. the CBS's over sized claws will probably mean that he will be the victor.
the fish you suggested are all fine in their own rights but no tangs are fin with a 44 gallon, even regular shapped ones, much less pentagons. the coral beuty may have the same problems. they like to be constantly on the swim, looking for food and such. the would need a bigger tank as well. the smaller fish you listed should be fine. the psuedo and gramma may fight but adding the psuedo last should help agression.
if you are looking for a nice, reef safe star try fromias. they stay smaller and don't bother corals or other inverts.
and other from what has already been said that about covers it.
the fish you suggested are all fine in their own rights but no tangs are fin with a 44 gallon, even regular shapped ones, much less pentagons. the coral beuty may have the same problems. they like to be constantly on the swim, looking for food and such. the would need a bigger tank as well. the smaller fish you listed should be fine. the psuedo and gramma may fight but adding the psuedo last should help agression.
if you are looking for a nice, reef safe star try fromias. they stay smaller and don't bother corals or other inverts.
and other from what has already been said that about covers it.