High nitrates from tap

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Should I buy a new test kit? Mayb from a different brand? I did not rinse the tubes at all before the first test. I just got it in the mail and immediately tested it. I was using strips for a short time but wanted to be more accurate with my aquarium testing. The second time I tested, I rinsed all tubes with bottled water and then tested the tap water against bottled water and brita filtered water. The tap results were the same, the bottled registered zero, and the brita water registered lower than the tap but higher than the bottled. I followed the directions to the letter and even used a timer to make sure I was shaking for the right amount of time.
 
Should I buy a new test kit? Mayb from a different brand? I did not rinse the tubes at all before the first test. I just got it in the mail and immediately tested it. I was using strips for a short time but wanted to be more accurate with my aquarium testing. The second time I tested, I rinsed all tubes with bottled water and then tested the tap water against bottled water and brita filtered water. The tap results were the same, the bottled registered zero, and the brita water registered lower than the tap but higher than the bottled. I followed the directions to the letter and even used a timer to make sure I was shaking for the right amount of time.
 
I think it is your tap water that has the problem, considering you are getting 0 from bottled water. The best water to test from is at first split which may be a garden faucet, but I would guess that it would be frozen at the moment.

The best way to rinse your test tubes is to use distilled water for rinsing, and a paper towel to dry the inside.
 
Ok. As soon as I get a chance I’ll check from the hose. I may ask for a cup of tap water from a neighbor’s house as well to see if my plumbing is the problem.
 
I agree with rinsing with DI water, because as a chemist, I would rinse my tubes 3 Xs between each sample tested to get accurate results.
When dealing with tiny amounts of water, and parts per million, one drop carry over can skew results
I can't tell what your problem is, but according to the Philadelphia water dept site, there are very minimal nitrates in the water coming out of the plant.
 
I thought there was a difference for total nitrate versus nitrate measured as nitrogen or are they the same? Or do you mean that tap water nitrates can be above 10ppm even if the residence gets its water from the city water treatment plants?

https://www.epa.gov/ground-water-and-drinking-water/national-primary-drinking-water-regulations

If I understand your question properly, then I think it's basically that some people use the atomic mass for nitrates (as a molecule) to measure ppm, while others use just the atomic mass (nitrate-nitrogen) of just the nitrogen component of nitrate.

10 ppm of nitrate-nitrogen is basically the same as 45 ppm of nitrates since nitrogen is 22.6% of the mass of nitrates.
 
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If you are feeding your fish and they are creating waste and you are using untreated tap water ( non RO/DI ) you will always have nitrates in your aquarium .. keeping them to a minimum is ideal .. this is a hobby enjoy , throw the nitrate test kits away most of these hobby kits are a waste of time. .. I know Ill get some flak from the nitrate nazi's on this forum if your under a 100 dont sweat the small stuff..
 
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I have the same issue with my water. for those of you who use R.O. how do you re-mineralize your water again with out with useing seachem trace/replenish, keeping the cost down. would crushed corral do the trick if it sits in the water for a week between water changes?
 
I have the same issue with my water. for those of you who use R.O. how do you re-mineralize your water again with out with useing seachem trace/replenish, keeping the cost down. would crushed corral do the trick if it sits in the water for a week between water changes?

I just used Epsom salt , baking soda , calcium chloride.... do a google search for amounts depending upon your target TDS and PH
 
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