So, Just how aggressive are these guys? I really like the patterning and would like to talk with others that have them. Are they fairly aggressive and what would be good tankmates for them? Thanks
How aggressive are Lepidiolamprologus kendalli
- Thread starter driftwood
- Start date
I'm guessing no one has these. That makes it harder to determine what they are like in a community tank set up.
I don't have these, but I did find this for you on google.
L. kendalli is a relatively large, monomorphic substrate spawner. Males are generally slightly larger than female broodmates and similar in color and pattern. This species is best housed in at least a four-foot aquarium of 70 gallons or larger. Absolutely essential to this setup is a tight fitting cover. L. kendalli, at a relatively small size (~2"), become highly aggressive towards intraspecific competitors such that an individual may attempt to exclude all other kendalli from its territory by literally driving them out of the aquarium. Even the smallest openings must be covered or plugged; plastic fish bags can accomplish this nicely. This aggressive behavior is fitting with the observations of wild fish only occurring as individuals or pairs. In captivity adults of this species are probably most successfully maintained as lone individuals or in pairs. Raising a group of six or more juveniles will likely ensure both sexes are represented and will allow a pair to form at which point all others may be removed from the aquaria or potentially be eliminated by the dominant pair. Sometimes additional females can be housed with a dominant pair however the behavior of a pair, particularly during spawning, can be unpredictable. Aquarists have reported success with removing a bonded pair to a smaller species only tank however in my experience this inevitably results with loss of the female due to male aggression. A pair may also be maintained in larger community aquaria where spawning and raising offspring can be successful. As a carnivore, this species does well maintained on a high protein, high lipid flake/pellet diet. I have found supplementation of this diet with frozen artemia or mysis essential in conditioning for spawning. L. kendalli seem to prefer a dark enclosed cave for spawning. Clay pots are inexpensive and handy for constructing a spawning cave. This cave may be easily removed for rearing fry, particularly if the pair is housed in a community tank. A spawning cave can be constructed from short (3-4" tall), wide (6" diameter) cylindrical pots. A hole just large enough to accommodate the parent can formed using a drill with masonry bit in the side of the pot near its top (which will become the bottom of the cave). Care should be taken to excavate an opening just large enough to accommodate the largest parent. The small opening size may give the parents a better sense of security and seems preferred over spawning caves with larger openings. On the top of the cave (bottom of the clay pot), another hole may be located (if not already existing on the pot) with a diameter large enough to permit the female, but not the male, to exit. This opening allows the female to escape the male if cornered in the pot. Constructing two nearly identical caves will allow one, along with any brood, to be removed and replaced without greatly disrupting the pair. The eggs of L. kendalli are similar to other Tanganyika substrate spawners and are characteristically small, compared to mouthbrooders, and olive in color. An adult pair may produce 70-150 in a single spawning. Hatching occurs in approximately five days at 78 F and fry are free swimming by 14-16 days. Free swimming fry may be fed a variety of ground flake or pellet feeds. Supplementation with hatched live or frozen baby artemia or any of a variety of dried artemia or artemia replacement products, all of which are high protein, high lipid, seems to greatly enhance survival and support increased growth rates.
A variety of suitable tankmates exist for this species, provided a few considerations are made. A four-foot tank is likely the minimum for tank raised specimens whereas wild caught specimens should probably be housed in no less than a six-foot aquarium. Most carnivorous/omnivorous Tanganyika cichlids, large enough not to be consumed, may be considered including: Altolamprologus, Chalinochromis, Julidochromis, Cyprichromis sp. “jumbo” types, and Cyphotilapia, depending upon tank size. Lake Malawi and Lake Victoria haplochromine cichlids also mix well. In my experience, even paired L. kendalli in community aquaria do not defend territory or broods as aggressively as many Neolamprologus species, however wild caught specimens may require more space or fewer tankmates relative to tank raised fish. L. kendalli is available to hobbyists as tank raised juveniles or wild adult fishes. Wild caught fish and tank raised juveniles usually demand a relatively high price despite the fact that adults may produce broods numbering in the 100's. This may reflect the observation of L. kendalli being found at greater depths as lone individuals or pairs, never in great abundance (Konings 1998), and the difficulty of pairing in captivity of both wild and tank raised fish. Whether in pairs or as lone individuals this species makes an interesting, undoubtedly challenging addition to any large cichlid aquarium.
L. kendalli is a relatively large, monomorphic substrate spawner. Males are generally slightly larger than female broodmates and similar in color and pattern. This species is best housed in at least a four-foot aquarium of 70 gallons or larger. Absolutely essential to this setup is a tight fitting cover. L. kendalli, at a relatively small size (~2"), become highly aggressive towards intraspecific competitors such that an individual may attempt to exclude all other kendalli from its territory by literally driving them out of the aquarium. Even the smallest openings must be covered or plugged; plastic fish bags can accomplish this nicely. This aggressive behavior is fitting with the observations of wild fish only occurring as individuals or pairs. In captivity adults of this species are probably most successfully maintained as lone individuals or in pairs. Raising a group of six or more juveniles will likely ensure both sexes are represented and will allow a pair to form at which point all others may be removed from the aquaria or potentially be eliminated by the dominant pair. Sometimes additional females can be housed with a dominant pair however the behavior of a pair, particularly during spawning, can be unpredictable. Aquarists have reported success with removing a bonded pair to a smaller species only tank however in my experience this inevitably results with loss of the female due to male aggression. A pair may also be maintained in larger community aquaria where spawning and raising offspring can be successful. As a carnivore, this species does well maintained on a high protein, high lipid flake/pellet diet. I have found supplementation of this diet with frozen artemia or mysis essential in conditioning for spawning. L. kendalli seem to prefer a dark enclosed cave for spawning. Clay pots are inexpensive and handy for constructing a spawning cave. This cave may be easily removed for rearing fry, particularly if the pair is housed in a community tank. A spawning cave can be constructed from short (3-4" tall), wide (6" diameter) cylindrical pots. A hole just large enough to accommodate the parent can formed using a drill with masonry bit in the side of the pot near its top (which will become the bottom of the cave). Care should be taken to excavate an opening just large enough to accommodate the largest parent. The small opening size may give the parents a better sense of security and seems preferred over spawning caves with larger openings. On the top of the cave (bottom of the clay pot), another hole may be located (if not already existing on the pot) with a diameter large enough to permit the female, but not the male, to exit. This opening allows the female to escape the male if cornered in the pot. Constructing two nearly identical caves will allow one, along with any brood, to be removed and replaced without greatly disrupting the pair. The eggs of L. kendalli are similar to other Tanganyika substrate spawners and are characteristically small, compared to mouthbrooders, and olive in color. An adult pair may produce 70-150 in a single spawning. Hatching occurs in approximately five days at 78 F and fry are free swimming by 14-16 days. Free swimming fry may be fed a variety of ground flake or pellet feeds. Supplementation with hatched live or frozen baby artemia or any of a variety of dried artemia or artemia replacement products, all of which are high protein, high lipid, seems to greatly enhance survival and support increased growth rates.
A variety of suitable tankmates exist for this species, provided a few considerations are made. A four-foot tank is likely the minimum for tank raised specimens whereas wild caught specimens should probably be housed in no less than a six-foot aquarium. Most carnivorous/omnivorous Tanganyika cichlids, large enough not to be consumed, may be considered including: Altolamprologus, Chalinochromis, Julidochromis, Cyprichromis sp. “jumbo” types, and Cyphotilapia, depending upon tank size. Lake Malawi and Lake Victoria haplochromine cichlids also mix well. In my experience, even paired L. kendalli in community aquaria do not defend territory or broods as aggressively as many Neolamprologus species, however wild caught specimens may require more space or fewer tankmates relative to tank raised fish. L. kendalli is available to hobbyists as tank raised juveniles or wild adult fishes. Wild caught fish and tank raised juveniles usually demand a relatively high price despite the fact that adults may produce broods numbering in the 100's. This may reflect the observation of L. kendalli being found at greater depths as lone individuals or pairs, never in great abundance (Konings 1998), and the difficulty of pairing in captivity of both wild and tank raised fish. Whether in pairs or as lone individuals this species makes an interesting, undoubtedly challenging addition to any large cichlid aquarium.
I have them Kendeli and Nakambe they are not that agressive teritorail though and they are in a 125 with Compresseps and Calvus Spiny Eels and Bichirs cool fish they like krill clam and fish hide some time but they like to swim also I have 2 of each they were introduced all at the same time at 2 inches and then now 4 inches over a year.
They're moderately aggressive...until they jump out (which is what they do)...
I kept mine in a 125g with a bunch of Barombi-Mbo fish. They staked out a cave or two and kept everyone out. Other than that, no big deal...
Keep a tight lid!
I kept mine in a 125g with a bunch of Barombi-Mbo fish. They staked out a cave or two and kept everyone out. Other than that, no big deal...
Keep a tight lid!
dogofwar;3074446; said:
Cool, I'm getting a couple on Tuesday along with some N. Marunquensis Blue fin. I'm not sure i'm going to house them in the same tank yet though. They are roughly the same size.