How much air does you overflow pull down?

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JK47

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Aug 4, 2008
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My overflow line to my wet/dry is only 1" and it seems like it pulls an excessive amount of air into the line. :irked:

Does a durso style overflow do this as well? I am upgrading my pump later this week because I am loosing allot of turnover because of the head height/check valve. I would like to find a way to reduce the amount of air being pulled down before I change out the pump. Any suggestions or is this normal/nothing I can do?
 
You can stick a bio ball on it, this may or may not help. I just put a "T" fitting on top my 1 1/2" helped alot but didn't completely stop air from entering.
 
Bderick67;3394221; said:
You can stick a bio ball on it, this may or may not help. I just put a "T" fitting on top my 1 1/2" helped alot but didn't completely stop air from entering.

Currently it is just a 1" pipe with a bunch of holes drilled in it. I hate it. I want to be able to take advantage of maximum flow through the small pipe. Does the "T" fitting on yours keep the return line constantly full of water?
 
ward1066;3394486; said:
mine has a coarse sponge on it, you can also put a rolled up towel on the box to dampen the noise

Wouldn't that slow the flow rate? My goal is not to reduce noise (tanks in the garage) it's to maximize the flow rate of the 1" pipe. I am thinking all of the additional air flowing through the pipe is slowing the flow rate.
 
JK47;3394591; said:
Wouldn't that slow the flow rate? My goal is not to reduce noise (tanks in the garage) it's to maximize the flow rate of the 1" pipe. I am thinking all of the additional air flowing through the pipe is slowing the flow rate.


Take a plastic cup... hold it upside down over the intake but don't let it down far enough to plug the hole... It will get louder for a minute... all the air will drain... then it will flow very fast with the bottom of the cub being the level it attempts to drain to...


Now get dreative and make a practical design to create that (keep in mind to make it so air doesn't get trapped in the "cup" when the pump is stopped and restarted)...
 
nc_nutcase;3394659; said:
Take a plastic cup... hold it upside down over the intake but don't let it down far enough to plug the hole... It will get louder for a minute... all the air will drain... then it will flow very fast with the bottom of the cub being the level it attempts to drain to...


Now get dreative and make a practical design to create that (keep in mind to make it so air doesn't get trapped in the "cup" when the pump is stopped and restarted)...

NC- I was hoping you would jump in here! So I am right then that the line should be completely full of water with no to minimal air correct? All the air moving through the line is reducing my flow rate? How much do you think? So if I used a solid pipe with a "T" fitting and a couple pieces angled down to replicate the cup, that would increase my flow rate and reduce the air going through the line.

Sorry to be redundant and a pain, I just want to do this right the first (second) time.
 
JK47;3394768; said:
NC- I was hoping you would jump in here! So I am right then that the line should be completely full of water with no to minimal air correct? All the air moving through the line is reducing my flow rate? How much do you think? So if I used a solid pipe with a "T" fitting and a couple pieces angled down to replicate the cup, that would increase my flow rate and reduce the air going through the line.

Sorry to be redundant and a pain, I just want to do this right the first (second) time.


In my experience it's using the 17th time that you really get what you want... ;-)


Yes you are completely correct that the water in the down spout / drain pipe / whatever you choose to call it is both taking up space that is not water as well as creating restriction because it is trying to flow (upward force) in the water that is falling down (downward force)... It makes a massive difference...

The trick is if your pump does not push water up into the tank fast enough to fully utilize the drain at max capacity, your water level will likely rise and fall as air gets trapped (slowing it down allowing the water level to rise) then air is removed(causing the level to drop which allows air to get trapped)...

My solution to this is to use a pump slightly larger than needed and valve it back with a ball valve... This way you find the equilibrium and your happy... If you are putting just a tiny bit more water up than equilibrium, then when the water level rises a tiny bit the water pressure pushing water down the pipe increases a tiny bit and equilibrium is established a tiny bit higher than you meant for it to... Therefore do not set the overflow to be right at the top lip, set it to be right at the bottom of the plastic rim (this way the extra space is available, but unseem)... if it's an acrypical tank with no rim, well just leave an inch or so for safe keeping...

You can use a T with arms going down... but keep in mind once there is no air in the drain pipe it is a siphon... therefore when you turn the sump pump off the water in the main tank will drain to the bottom of the downward facing arms...

Instead I suggest chopping the top off of a T fitting... siliconing an upside down bowl like piece to the top of it in a way that restricts water flow into the T as little as possible (you should be able to do that in a way that allows more water flow than the original T did)... Just make sure the edges of the upsdie down 'bowl' are as close to even with the top opening of the drain pipe as possible. By "top Opening" of the drain pipe I mean the point the water crests the edge to begin it's downward journey into the sump...

Darn... a picture is worth a thousand words and I simply do not have a picture of a photographable example of this :P Let me know what parts of that didn't make sense and I'll give it another shot...
 
Thanks NC! It made perfect sense. I am not worried about my water level since my overflow box stops the water level from dropping below the "cutouts" at the top of the overflow tower. The lowest hole drilled in this pipe is about 3" from the bottom of the tank so trust me, that should not matter. This is how the set up was when I bought the tank but now I have to redo it. For the record my current water level in the tank and the sump never change.

The pump I am going to be replacing the current one will be a restricted GenX 1,500 GHP model, should be about 900 GHP with the head height I have (tall stand and 30" tall tank. I will get the parts tonight and get to work. Thanks for the help guys. I was really worried about the 1" not being able to flow enough water to keep up with the new pump unless I removed the wasted air space.
 
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