How Much Bio Filter is really needed?

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batang_mcdo

Polypterus
MFK Member
Apr 24, 2006
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How do you determine how much Bio Filtration is actually needed by your tank?
I currently have 3 22 inc Arowanas in my 350 Gallon tank,
filter is a 6x2x18 inch sump. Media inside
1st t chamber - Japanese mats with some crushed corals
2nd chamber - Mata mats and some ceramic rings
3rd chamber - Lots of scrubbies.

I'm planning to move 3 more 20 inch arowanas into this tank.
but I'm still not sure if the filter can handle the additional bio load?
I'll add maybe a kilo only of sintered glass.

Any suggestions?
At current Bio Load i Dont have ammonia and nitrite in my tank.
 
There are formula to do it, which helps if you want to get it all up front.

However, the easiest approach is to get more than you think you need, then as the fish grow, they'll use more of it, watch your parameters, then add more if needed.
 
Best approach would be to add one fish at a time, watch parameters over a week or two to see if they change. If they do, add more media. If they dont add another fish.
 
Drstrangelove said:
There are formula to do it, which helps if you want to get it all up front.

However, the easiest approach is to get more than you think you need, then as the fish grow, they'll use more of it, watch your parameters, then add more if needed.
Click to expand...

This is good, sound advice.
 
thanks :) problem with arowanas is they fight with less number , so i have to add them all to diffuse the fighting :)
 
In your case, it comfortably handles 3 large aro. Let's say that you add 3 more, basically the same size, per your plan.

Reduce the feeding to 1/2 of what you normally feed** (which is exactly what your bio currently handles), then start gradually increasing the amount of food. Gradually is needed anyway to allow for bacteria to grow in response to the new food, but bacteria should grow as fast as your feeding increase unless you go too steep (as in feed twice as much on day 1!) or unless you run out of bio surface.

Take readings about 3-4 hours after feeding and metrics should be close to nil on ammonia, nil on nitrites. Preferably both. (3-4 hours is roughly when ammonia peaks after feeding assuming no filtration. In most mature tanks with adequate bio, readings stay close to nil before and after feeding.)

1) If readings are nil on ammonia and nitrites, your current feeding amount is fine. You can try increasing food amounts.

2) If you see readings go up on ammonia, you may be seeing a limit of physical bio media. Add more media. and reduce feeding back to the level that was fine, and allow new media to be colonized.

3) If you see readings on ammonia stay flat, but nitrites are present, you need to reduce feeding slightly and let the bacteria catch up.

Rinse/repeat.

**Remember that the driving factor for ammonia and nitrites is quantity of protein, so, for example, changing from 35% protein to 56% is a 60% increase in 'food' as far as bacteria are concerned.
 
Drstrangelove said:
In your case, it comfortably handles 3 large aro. Let's say that you add 3 more, basically the same size, per your plan.

Reduce the feeding to 1/2 of what you normally feed** (which is exactly what your bio currently handles), then start gradually increasing the amount of food. Gradually is needed anyway to allow for bacteria to grow in response to the new food, but bacteria should grow as fast as your feeding increase unless you go too steep (as in feed twice as much on day 1!) or unless you run out of bio surface.

Take readings about 3-4 hours after feeding and metrics should be close to nil on ammonia, nil on nitrites. Preferably both. (3-4 hours is roughly when ammonia peaks after feeding assuming no filtration. In most mature tanks with adequate bio, readings stay close to nil before and after feeding.)

1) If readings are nil on ammonia and nitrites, your current feeding amount is fine. You can try increasing food amounts.

2) If you see readings go up on ammonia, you may be seeing a limit of physical bio media. Add more media. and reduce feeding back to the level that was fine, and allow new media to be colonized.

3) If you see readings on ammonia stay flat, but nitrites are present, you need to reduce feeding slightly and let the bacteria catch up.

Rinse/repeat.

**Remember that the driving factor for ammonia and nitrites is quantity of protein, so, for example, changing from 35% protein to 56% is a 60% increase in 'food' as far as bacteria are concerned.
Click to expand...



thanks :) Really appreciate the help. Hope i can push thru with the transfer this weekend :D
 
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