I will try to give some general guidance, but the main idea behind what I will say is that you will have to see what workds for you. It also depends on the amount of "water flow buffers" you have (ie., rocks, caves, decor). A basic overview of the brackish setup and potential problems. Water at SG 1.000 is relatively easy to oxygenate. The denser the water, the more difficult it is to keep aerated. Thus turning water, aerating and water changes augment this for aquarists. I believe that in an earlier post, you said that your water measured SG 1.012, which is a mid range salinity brackish setup. Thus , I would turn my water at a rate of 1.5 to 2 times more than required for freshwater, imo. So, general commercial recommendations, a freshwater tank should be turned full volume 4 times an hour. But in a brackish, it is generally recommended to turn your full volume 6 to 8 times an hour. Your canister and HOB filter meet this. I believe your archers will appreciate the current by the powerhead. It will help push water over their gills for oxygen exchange and it will help prevent salinity columns from forming. Imo, I would put the canister filter spray bar and power head on the same side of the tank. Inversly, I would put the canister filter intake on the other side of the tank. Finally, I would put the HOB filter in the area of a poor flow area to keep it all moving. The mollies are pretty tough, cockroaches of saline water world. You will have to adjust your powerhead mostly to get the desired flow, but I would keep it higher in the tank to help keep the stronger currents at the archers' level. Give your gobies caves and some slate surfaces to how they react with flows. Let us know how you set up your currents & caves. Likewise, report on the gobies actions one situated.