How to clean between overflow layers? Please help, Thank You

TheWolfman

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Sep 5, 2010
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You can't use the canister as a return pump. It needs equal length and hight hoses for them to work properly. I'm not sure where you saw this idea, but I wouldn't try and emulate that. A return pump will be required to run the sump. As far as your pluming goes the two holes drilled in your overflow will be used as one for a full syphon tuned with a gate valve. The second one as a trickle. This is known as a herbie overflow. Your return will be plumed over the top of the tank. You will need to drill a small hole in the return line just above the water line to brake the syphon on power loss so it does not flood your sump.
 

DKAudio

Exodon
MFK Member
Feb 4, 2020
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This is how utilized the MegaFlow overflows...I have a 100 gallon stock tank in my basement. In the 4 drilled holes, I have two Herbies, 1 return, and 1 EM. This can be slightly risky since there is not 2 EM's but I do not think both herbies would ever clog at the same time, I'm doing FW, no creatures or snails are going to go crawling in the overflows. A submersible return pump sits in the sump and pumps back up through the return.



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NCHornet

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 27, 2012
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Thanks for the replies and the pics. Getting my materials list together. I notice your not using gate valves on the emergency lines. I had planned on using one on each one. Might not be needed but can't hurt. I will plumb the FX6 separate, and I have a second one that could be used if needed but I don't think it will be. The tank is going to be a planted Discus with a few other community fish. Stocking will be on the lighter side more then heavy.
When I bought the tank it came with 2 new pumps. A Jebao DCT 8000 and a DCT 12000 which would y'all recommend using?
Thanks Again
Kevin
 

TheWolfman

Goliath Tigerfish
MFK Member
Sep 5, 2010
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Just want to clarify something here. I keep seeing people refer to a single stand pipe as a herbie. A herbie is style drain configuration that consist of a full syphon and a secondary drain. It isn't a single stand pipe. There's no need for any valves on the secondary drain. You want that to be a open channel that will become noisy in the event that the full syphon gets blocked. That way you will know something is wrong. As far as the return pump goes I would use the 12000 and run it on low. That way if you ever need more turnover you can turn it up.
 

NCHornet

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 27, 2012
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Understand, thank you to everyone. Now I'm waiting for a time when I can get 4 of my friends here to get this beast on the stand so I can clean that crap out and get the sump plumbed. Have a great weekend.
Kevin
 

Oscar Mike

Piranha
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Oct 9, 2010
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Use a product called Bar Keepers Friend. It's a mildly abrasive powder that is 10k times stronger than vinegar according to Joey. In your situation I would mix it with water in a spray bottle and let it run down the slots. Worked a lot better than vinegar at getting the deposits off but if the glass is etched nothing will get rid of it.
 

NCHornet

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 27, 2012
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NC
I have used it before and still have some of the paste version. The glass on the tank is clear and scratch free. I never knew that it works for breaking down deposits like this where you can't physically scrub the surface. I also have a gal of Muraic acid that I've used before. I've kept fish for decades and brought a lot of tanks back to life, but this is the biggest and first with a sump. Thanks
 

NCHornet

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Apr 27, 2012
81
53
36
NC
UPDATE:
Been on forums of all kinds for years and I always hated when people would post a thread with a problem, get different types of advice but they never reply back to let others know what the resolution was. I didn't want to be one of those, lol!!!!! After months of waiting I finally got the tank up on the stand and I was able to install the bulkheads. I followed the advice given about sealing the weir slots and then filling the space between the inner and outer with a vinegar water solution. I used the Gorilla waterproof patch and seal tape, very impressed with this stuff. Probably a good thing to have on hand if a seam ever started to leak. After the tape was applied I filled the area with about a 70/30 vinegar/water solution and let it sit over night. Right away it began foaming at the top and puking out all sorts of crap. This morning not a drop of the solution was anywhere except where I put it. It literally dissolved all those hard deposits in a 12 hour period. What was left was thousands of small brown paper like pieces. I took a flat piece of sheet metal and 1 1/2 wide and taped a shop towel on the end and ran it up and down between the two walls just to make sure it was really ready to flush. I then rigged up a 3/8 hose attached to my homemade Python system and flushed this area out with very hot water. This forced out all the residue that was left and after doing this 6 to 8 times I am very happy to say the overflows look brand new.

Thank you all for your help and advice, it is much appreciated and I hope to be able to return the favor. Tomorrow I will get the other overflow done and I can start installing the Universal Rocks background. Thanks again and God Bless.
NCH
 
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