how to re-seal?

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SpJc11

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jan 7, 2009
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I found a great deal on cr for a 150 gallon tank. the catch is it is leaking. one of the seams near the top let go, about 4" down. how hard would this be to fix I mean it is a really good deal and comes with a stand. it really cant be that hard and if it is where can I get it re-sealed for a fairly cheap price?
1- how much would it cost to seal it myself or to have someone else do it?
2- is it really worth it
3- I have never sealed a tank befor so I need ALOT of healp from what to use (silicone) and how to do it
4- the tank is glass
 
1- how much would it cost to seal it myself or to have someone else do it? The only thing this willcost you is time, the price of the silicone and razor blades. I have never priced out having someone else do this.

2- is it really worth it? I am not going to lie, it's a lot of work. Odds are, you will need to reseal the entire tank to do it right. New silicone does not stick well to old silicone. It would have to be a pretty good price for me to do it.

3- I have never sealed a tank befor so I need ALOT of healp from what to use (silicone) and how to do it. GE1 Silicone is what you want to use. Just under $4 a tube.
4- the tank is glass
 
Why stop at a 150? I searched for the ad but didn't find it, but found this one- http://newhaven.craigslist.org/for/1642797649.html

Resealing is easy. For me it's worth it if the tank is cheap enough. I've even bought busted tanks and fixed them.
If all this :WHOA: doesn't sound like too much work then it could be worth it for you.

Things you need:
Razor blades, a box of them
Scraper/blade holder long handle for reaching the bottom easy
Box cutter
Acetone for cleaning before resealing
Masking tape 3/4" for sharp lines on your visible corners
Caulking gun
GE silicone #1 3-4 tubes may only need two but you don't want to run out
available from Home Depot or similar places
Spoon or your finger to smooth silicone
Paper towels

Here's how I do it:
Clean the tank!!
Then you need to cut out all of the old silicone. You want to cut it not pull it out. You don't want to remove it from between the glass unless you have a really loose pane. Go over every joint several times with a new sharp blade after you get the bulk of the old sealant out. You will still scrape fine sealant up even after it looks clean. You must do the entire tank, including around the bottom or it may not seal.

After all the silicone is removed use the Acetone to clean clean the corners to be sealed.

Using the masking tape, tape up your corners the width of the original sealant. This will give you clean lines when you seal it. You don't need to tape around the bottom, unless you plan on doing a bare bottom. The media will hide the bottom seal.

After its all taped up wipe the corners with Acetone again.

Now your ready to start with the silicone. You need to have a sufficient amount of time to finish sealing once you start. Once you start sealing you have to finish all the joints.
I seal the side corners first. Do one at a time seal it and wipe it smooth with your finger or spoon. After smoothing the corner pull the tape off, and do the next corner. Do not over wipe the sealant, you want to leave some behind. Make the sealant look like original. When all four corners are done, seal around the bottom and wipe smooth as you go around. Be quick, you don't want the silicone skinning over before you wipe it. Cooler temps will help slow the cure while your sealing it. Once your done sealing crank up the heat so it dries. I use my wood stove, 85* is easily attainable.

On a tank this size I would allow a minimum of 48 hrs or longer if your doing this in a cold garage, of curing time before water testing.

The smell of uncured silicone may bother some of the more sensitive members of your family.
 
The post above is the quicka nd dirty way to reseal a tank. BUT, if the tank "let go" as stated in your previous post, you should really disassemble the entire tank and reseal it. Otherwise, you could be cleaning up a lot of water.
 
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