Hydor ETH200 questions

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brich999

Jack Dempsey
MFK Member
Jul 3, 2010
4,312
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38
New Hampshire
Ok so I have a pair of eheim 2217 and I ordered a pair of hydor ETH 200 inline heaters. Much to my surprise the 200w model comes in a 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch models. I got 2 200w because I figured one wouldn't be enough and I didn't want to have to mount the 300w on the intake side. Well looks like I'm going to have to mount these upside down on the intake but I think this will be ok for 2 reasons.
1. 5/8 is a hare bigger than the intake hose and doesn't look like there is anything to restrict anyways
2. Eheim pull water through the filters with the pump at the top, versus most push water through. I figure a dirty filter will cause more strain on the intake side than this will

Am I in trouble and trying to convince myself otherwise? I've read a few people say you can but not heard from anyone who has and if it worked longterm. Also some said to clean it more often? How do you clean it? Just looks like a tube.
 
Why didnt you order the 200 watt with the 1/2" connection? You would have been able to put it directly on the output line.

I have been running the 300 watt models for years now. I have two custom plumbed on an FX5. Very happy with the heaters. Im not sure as to the mounting upside-down but I would not put them on the intake lines. The intakes get pretty dirty. You can always get a 1/2" to 5/8" in line adapter to add them.
 
Ya I looked up sizes and saw 200w were always 1/2" and 300w were 5/8, just ordered 200w and didn't say what hose size so I assumed... Wrong. I know I could do adapters and stuff but with quick disconnects and this heater the filter would be too tall to fit in my stand and id have to plumb in many more turns which would decrease flow. Do you really think it will make a difference?
 
I'm not sure about the new ones, but the ones I bought 5 or so years ago would burn up, if they went dry while plugged in. Because of this I put a check valve below the heater, so it would stop water from draining out of the heater if the pump shut off for some reason, and the heater was on.
I would consider this possibility before mounting it upside down.
 
thats good because the eheim has a double ball valve quick disconnect, which added a lot of vertical height to both intake and output side but should help. reason i got 2 i know its overkill but i wanted to be able to shut it off for maintence and not drop temp. in my mind i think should be fine. hope i dont ruin a hundred bucks in heaters.
 
Bryan, you should be able to pick up a couple 5/8" to 1/2" barb adapters to be able to run the Hydor's on the output lines. They will fit the Eheim 2217 output hose and then use a short length of 5/8" hose to connect to the heater. Then do the same on the other side of the heater.

BTW, I hang my Hydor ETH behind the tank, a couple inches below the rim with a plastic hook or a bent wire. This maintains the heater in a vertical position and still leaves enough room for the Eheim valves.
 
I'm not sure about the new ones, but the ones I bought 5 or so years ago would burn up, if they went dry while plugged in. Because of this I put a check valve below the heater, so it would stop water from draining out of the heater if the pump shut off for some reason, and the heater was on.
I would consider this possibility before mounting it upside down.

According to http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11369 "There's no danger of damage to equipment if unit is left running without water flow for a short period of time. Heater switches "Off" to avoid overheating"

However, I have two of the 200w 1/2" NIB that are new and I just fumbled through the English portion of the User's Guide which says no such thing. The box itself says "The self-limiting PTC heating element guarantees maximum safety against risk of overheating (whatever that means)

IMO it is always better to have two 200w heaters vs one 300w heater in case of a failure.

If you just got them, can't you just have them swap you out for the 5/8"? You'll have to cover shipping but, the cost shouldn't be that far off from adapters.


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Ya I could ship em back and get the right ones, but I was really thinking they would be fine on the intake side. Other than running upside down so the thermostat is still after the element, I cant imagine it would be much different. O well I'm pretty sure I'm going to mount on the intake and hope for the best. It won't require any adapters and will keep it all inside my cabinet where I will have easy access. Still scratching my head as to why they make 2 sizes of the 200w and I cant find a store that offers both. Wonder if thats why these were much cheaper than anywhere I've seen
 
You're probably good.

I have two 200W MarineLand submersibles (rated at 50 gallons each) in a sump of 30g of water for a 125g main tank. The sump only turns over about 250-300 gph, is in the basement in Michigan, and the heaters have no problem keeping 76 degrees.

The 1/2 will reduce your canister flow, but not enough to really matter. Two things you should consider: 1. Magnetic drive pumps, like the one in your canister, can get louder when flow is restricted; and 2. If you're running more than one canister, hook the heaters to the slower one and use the one with the slower, or restricted, flow rate for bio media. Use the faster flowing canister for mechanical.

FYI, Drsfostersmith has both 200W models.


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