Ich in my 110g

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305phins

Candiru
MFK Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Hey guys, I have did a water change last week now all my fish have the beginning stage of ich with little white spots on fins and body. I treated the tank with quick cure today. Ive read many different strategies including water changes in between treatments, one treatmeant a day while doing normal weekly water changes... Can sombody tell me the best strategy to treat the tank with this quick cure, I have a breeding pair of jds and convicts, a wolf, and a AB tiger oscar. They all have it and i really dont want any of them to die :(

Thanks MFK
 
Oh i forgot some people say add reef aqurium salt. This would very possible I have a 40g reef and i make my own water should i add some of that salt, its instant ocean sea salt
 
Btw i read the salt sticky and em still very confused, what type of salt should i dose and how much should i put in my 110g, would i do it and then do a water change a little bit after. Im very intersted in this because salt seems to be a very effective means of treating a varity of problems. If someone could educate me about this i would really apriciate it
Thanks again MFK this community is great.
 
I use aquarium salt... use that bump up the temerature to 86 to stop the ick from spreading and a water change a few days after....
 
Ich is real easy to get rid of and can be handled in this forum for CA/SA stock.

Normally -change 50% of the water, increase the Temp to 84-85, add 1 tablespoon of non-iodized or aquarium salt per 5 gal of water (that's 22 tblspn's for you) and increase the oxygen intake via powerheads or airstones. The higher temp speeds up the ichs life cycle, the fluxuation in salinity kills of the newborn parasites, the water change and air increase the dissolved oxygen levels within' the tank that are lost to the higher temps.
You can still do this with meds however the meds need to be removed via water changes at the least, carbon does a good job of getting them out.

The big question that needs to be addressed is how did ich infect the fish - (a few common causes) - stress, new additions, poor water quality, feeder fish, and un-cycled tanks. This needs to be solved to aviod re-infection of the tank.
 
Otherone;4854360; said:
Ich is real easy to get rid of and can be handled in this forum for CA/SA stock.

Normally -change 50% of the water, increase the Temp to 84-85, add 1 tablespoon of non-iodized or aquarium salt per 5 gal of water (that's 22 tblspn's for you) and increase the oxygen intake via powerheads or airstones. The higher temp speeds up the ichs life cycle, the fluxuation in salinity kills of the newborn parasites, the water change and air increase the dissolved oxygen levels within' the tank that are lost to the higher temps.
You can still do this with meds however the meds need to be removed via water changes at the least, carbon does a good job of getting them out.

The big question that needs to be addressed is how did ich infect the fish - (a few common causes) - stress, new additions, poor water quality, feeder fish, and un-cycled tanks. This needs to be solved to aviod re-infection of the tank.
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Simple. Ich is parasitic. They don't appear out of nowhere. They have to be introduced via a carrier, and will appear more noticeably only if they sense their host is weakening as a result of any stress-related factors.

To avoid reinfection, the treatment course must be completed. Continue another 10 days after ich disappears with temperature consistently high to be sure the parasites are completely eliminated.

305phins, did you read this?
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371335

If you want to use salt, use aquarium salt, rock salt or pickling salt. Sodium chloride only. Iodine and calcium silicate shouldn't be a problem. The only additive I have issues with would be yellow prussiate of soda. So far, there's one report of salt containing YPS that made her goldfish go berserk so I think it's better not to use salt with YPS included.

You already used Quick Cure so continue that treatment and refrain from adding salt. You cannot combine any formalin-based meds with salt as the combination is lethal. Be sure to keep water well aerated as the formalin in QC can reduce oxygen levels.

Keep temp consistently at 80-84 degrees Fahrenheit. 86 max if your fish can tolerate it well. Don't forget that high temperature can also reduce oxygen levels and ich attacks primarily the gill tissues so proper respiration is your top priority.
 
Thanks for all the info guys and yea I read it after the post lupin. I know i cant treat with salt this time because i already used QC. But now whats the best way to use the QC once a day with or with water changes between dosage. There are many startageys to use QC which would be best.
 
Do daily or every other day water changes (depends how your water parameters play it out) so you can take advantage of vacuuming out the ich cysts on the ground thoroughly. This will require you to redose the med per water volume changed, preferably 50%. Can't do full dose at the risk of overdosing your fish.
 
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