Ich in my aquarium

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MUDSHARK23

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Aug 9, 2013
15
0
0
Canada
Hey just had a question in regards to clearing ich in my aquarium. So I've had my tank set up for about 4 months now and just recently noticed ich on one of my peacock bass so I went to the lfs and picked up this ich guard stuff I was told to use one full dose and let it run through for a week and it should be gone well it's not. Fish are still scratching on gravel and rocks but no visible signs on the fish. Does anyone no a better way to treat this? Please reply back with all the info/ steps on how to clear these fish up


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"No visible signs on the fish" but you said "noticed ich on one of my peacock bass"

How did you determine that it was ich? Flashing is not conclusive of ich, so what was your evidence it's ich?
 
The bass and oscar had salt looking stuff all over them and were scratching on the bottom and rocks. I treated one dose of the ich guard an the salt stuff went away but the scratching did not and some of my fish sit on the bottom I read those were signs of ich


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If you added any fish or plants to your tank in the last few weeks, it's possible you added ich. If however you have been clean for 4 months and nothing was added, then you can't have ich. It's life cycle in a tropical tank is far to rapid to have been there for more than a few weeks. (in cold water, it can indeed take a long time to manifest.)

If you have ich, depending on how well your fish handle heat and salt, a common method is heat and salt. I've used this method without fail. Heat and salt will disrupt and kill the parasite over time (although not in the stage where it is visible on the fish.)

See link below.

Basic summary:

1) raise heat slowly to 86, although I prefer 88 as a target to eliminate temperature fluctuations and errors in the thermostat.
2) add salt slowly to raise salinity (see calculations in the link below). Not all fish can handle this, so be sure.
3) add aeration to ensure fish have enough oxygen
4) give the tank 10 days at 88 degrees, but 14 is a more sure time frame
5) be sure to dry out anything that comes out of the tank before putting it back into that or any other tank
6) reduce feeding slightly to reduce stress from ammonia
7) if you see unusual stress or respiration at any point stop adding salt, do add more aeration
8) do not stop the treatment just because you don't see the ich. It will survive past the point you actually can see it.
9) Do NOT use heat and salt with medicines.

A good siphon of the bottom is a good idea before you start as the ich will often be there in "eggs" waiting to divide and hatch


http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?20681-One-proven-way-to-treat-ich-ick-%282-Viewing%29



 
Thanks Idk if you can answer this but that page says treat for 10 days so once a day I would add the salt ? And would I do a water change at the end of the 10 days also would I do anything with the filter before and after treatment ?


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Flashing isn't a sign of ich my tin barbs flash all the the and they have never had ich

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If u don't have the patience to do the warm water treatment, u can get a small bottle of quick cure and I bet the ich is gone within 2 days. Had an ich outbreak a few years ago after starting up a cichlid tank and it was almost clear after the 1st day and completely gone after 2, with no deaths or negative side effects. Cichlids are very tough fish, I'd just go that route

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Whenever my fish get ick, I found that 90% of the time what I do works. Quarantine the fish and make sure you have plenty of oxygen in the water. Bring the heat up to about 85 degrees. Add 1 tablespoon of salt for every 5 gallons and use Super Ick Cure in the powder packets. Follow the instructions for the Super Ick Cure and try to keep the tank dark to calm the fish. The fish will be better in about 3-4 days. I usually keep doing it for 5-6 days just to make sure all of the ick is gone. I used Rid-Ick in a bottle before but didn't have any good results. Then a friend recommended the Super Ick Cure in the powder form because he said that the powder form is stronger than the liquid. Mainly, keep the water clean, bump up the heat, add salt and treat with the powder.
 
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