Ich just wont go away!

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Matt724

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Jan 19, 2009
1,418
0
66
Los Angeles, CA
It's been over 2 weeks since my ich outbreak has begun and my fish are becoming restless in my quarantine tank. I've raised the temperature to 89 degrees on my heater, which since it's a little old, keeps the temperature between 82 and 86 degrees F. At the beginning of the treatment I treated the tank with the recommended dosage of aquarium salt and whenever I do a waterchange I make sure to replenish the salt (even maybe a little over the recommended dosage) and make sure to equilibrate the temperature before adding it back to the tank. The fish seem normal now, almost no more jerking behavior, most of the fish have colored up beautifully, and all of them eat like pigs (seriously, they eat everything!). So it seems like I've been doing everything right, but the ich just keeps on going. And my mom is hosting a party next week and I really wanted to get them in the show tank by then so I can hear people say "oh, nice fish" :) but I can't if they're covered in white spots. Basically all of them have white spots except for the biggest and most colorful herotiliapia, the ebjd, 3 ottocinclus, and the bolivian ram. All the other have whitespots ranging from only a few spots to quite a few spots.

What should I do? I saw this article: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226328 in which it says "THE USE OF SALT AS A PARASITICIDE

Used in proper amounts, salt effectively controls protozoans on the gills and skin of fish. In many instances, however, too little salt is used, rendering the treatment ineffective. The duration of treatment is used to determine the appropriate salt concentration.

A 3 percent salt dip effectively removes protozoa from the skin, gills, and fins of freshwater fish; it also enhances mucus production. Depending on the species, fish can remain in a 3 percent salt solution from 30 seconds to 10 minutes. In general, fish should be left in the salt solution until they lose equilibrium and roll over. When this happens, the fish should be quickly removed from the salt solution and placed in clean, untreated water. Because some species (notably, some tetras) do not tolerate salt well, a bioassay (a test to determine safe concentration) should be conducted before large numbers of these fish are treated. A similar benefit may be obtained by dipping marine fish in fresh water. Marine protozoa burst when placed in fresh water, effectively removing them from the external surfaces of fish. Marine fish should be left in fresh water for no more than 10 minutes, then returned to a clean seawater environment.

If dipping is not feasible, freshwater fish may be placed in a brackish water (i.e., 1 percent salt) solution for 30 minutes up to several hours. This procedure produces the same effects as a saltwater dip; that is, it removes external parasites (protozoa) and enhances mucus production. It also benefits fish recovering from skin wounds.

Finally, a light solution of 0.01 to 0.2 percent salt may be used as a permanent treatment in recirculating systems. Such levels are quite effective in eliminating single-cell protozoans. Most fish can tolerate prolonged exposure to salt at these concentrations; however, tetras and fish that navigate by electrical field (e.g., elephant nose) should not be maintained in salt."

I was wondering if this quick "salt-dip" would solve my problem. AND, it is a given, but I really don't want to kill my fish because if I do, I'm not buying anymore. What really scares me is the "In general, fish should be left in the salt solution until they lose equilibrium and roll over" :eek: So basically, I want to know if anyone has ever tried this method and it's effectiveness. Thanks.

All feedback appreciated.

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I'm just finishing up treatment on a few CA cichlids, and the salt/heat treatment seemed to work fine. I dosed 2 tsp/gal. and kept the temp. at about 88. Maybe your heater is fluctuating too much to be effective, as 82 isn't really warm enough to treat ich. Just ensure you have adequate aeration when you keep the temp. that high.

If all else fails, you can try Rid-Ich. I bought some to use in case the salt/heat didn't work, but I didn't use it, so I can't speak from personal experience, but it seemed to be the most popular med from what I saw.
 
Ich is such a pain in the butt, be sure to add extra bubblers, and such, and syphon the gravel the best you can. You can only kill the ich that is not on the fish. I think the best and method is bumping the tank temp and using salt, with the lights off for a few days. Did you add any fish recently? If that is not working try the blue ich med, but use half the doseage and intoduce it very slowly. If you have multiple tanks don't use the same syphon as you will put those other tanks at risk of infection too.

One time I had an extremely strong varient of ich, nothing would work and my fish were dieing like flies did a 100% water change. I took my gravel out back and power washed it, the tank, the filters, the decor. I went to the lfs and got some instant seed bacteria and because I opened a new door of problems. The remaining fish recovered in about 2 days. I kept getting ich on and off for months and it just wouldnt stop. Hopefully you never have to do something drastic, but it was no use and I was so sick of seeing my fish suffer. Try the other methods first, and make sure you syphon under all the decor to get all the ich that isn't on the fish, so that you can at least hold off the reproduction rate.
 
Yea, I'm tempted to do a 80% water change tonight. I don't want to use any meds because i forgot to mention that when i first noticed the outbreak, i used pimafix or something and that killed a total of 7 cardinals, 2 ottocinclus, and 1 herotiliapia multispinosa after 1 dose. I'm going to try and kick the heat up to 88 like Bob suggested and use 2 tsp/gal. Sound good? Relatively, these are expensive fish (for a 16 yr old student whose parents don't like him "wasting time on fish") so keeping them alive is still the number 1 priority.
 
did this outbreak happen on its own or did you add something new to the tank

if the outbreak happened on its own then well.. keep at it and hopefully will clear up sooner than later... you may want to add a UV to help kill off anything free floating..

if you recently added something infected to the tank then good luck.. you may verywell have gotten some "superich" which salt/heat have no effect on.. you can throw some meds at it (ridich+ had moderate results for me) but if its not getting better in 2-4 weeks just throw yer fish on the lawn and dry out the tank because its just never going to end..
 
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