Ich

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Candiru
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Jun 21, 2021
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Don’t forget to bring the water temp up gradually towards 86 to reduce the amount of stress on the fish.
You will really start to see progress once the water temp is 86. You may even need to increase the temp slightly if ich is still present. When I ran into this problem I had to bring the water temp to 87-88 to get rid of it
 
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duanes

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If one fish in the tank has Ick, the entire tank has it, so separating the one fish is useless, the entire tank must be treated.
Beside being on the fish, larval Ick is in the substrate, on plants, and is floating around (planktonic) and will continue to infect until all are dead.
This could easily take up to 3 weeks to a month, because the larval stages are only vulnerable to treatment, other stages are not.
Up to 100 new Ick hatch out from each spot on the fish
I use a salinity of 3 lbs salt per 100 gallons, a salinity of 3ppt (parts per thousand) must be reached to kill all Ick., if even 1 Ick is left alive, the infection can gradually start all over .
I do not use the tsp (volumetric) method, because different size salt grains produce different salinities. And if a salinity of 2.5 ppt is used, some Ick may survive.
Mollies can easily handle a much higher salinity, they are often found in nature, in brackish, even straight sea water, which is 35 lbs per 100 gallons.
But other fish in the tank may not be able to handle it if yo.ve randomly mix fish from different water types..
 
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Ashtons Fishroom

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I would do a water change 1st maybe 50% then rise the temp to 28 degrees Celsius, then add Marine salt. that works every time :) but GL with that ich of yours
 
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duanes

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One practical way, ...if your salt water tank needs a water change, se that salted tank water to ad to the fresh water tank.
An example.
When my wild fish arrived from a river in Panama, I noticed 2 had an Ick cyst or two.
Because 6+ lbs of salt is difficult to get here on the island.
I pored 18 gallons of sea water into my 180 gal tank (+ sump) to bring salinity above 3 ppt, and continued adding the proper amount with each water change for about 3 weeks.
One other help, when doing a water change, vacuum the substrate because inert Ick cysts fall into the substrate to soon hatch to.
Vacuuming helps remove them.....but....don't se that vacuum siphon (or nets) on non-infected tanks.
There is always a chance of transferring Ick, one tank to another.
 
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Deadeye

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I do have to take out 3 gallons when I do a water change on my reef, putting that right in would definitely work.
Is there a specific s.g am shooting for with the added salt? I forgot to check the salinity and temp this morning…
I’m not too worried about the mollies, tetras, and puffers in the salinity, as they are either super hardy or found in brackish. Though plecos and loaches aren’t as salt hardy if I’m correct.
 

Rocksor

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Increase 1ppt of salt everyday until you get between 4ppt-5ppt. Heat between 78f-85F won't make the ich reproduce any faster, so 78f is fine. Common plecos are fine with salt. Clown loaches are as well, as long as the salinity is brought up slowly like I recommended. Total treatment time at least 10 days of no visible ich on the fish (turns out to be around 3 weeks). I would just take all the plants out, and get that tote for the plants and keep the plants isolated for a month. If you don't want to take the plants out, then Seachem Paraguard will work for scaleless fish, but it has to be dosed everyday and after a few hours of adding water conditioner.
 
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Deadeye

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Looks like the salinity is at 3 ppt (maybe a bit more, instant ocean hydrometer isn’t the most accurate). Now we wait!
 
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