my yellowtail cuda and spottedsilver dollar have ick but i have a uv steralizer and the water temp is in the 80s i have two payaras in my tank wat should i do?
ick help
- Thread starter cudamaster13
- Start date
I suggest treating with salt.
If you can find some though, quinine sulfate works much better and is super safe. I treated my tat, Nandus, and various catfish with this without any problems.
If you can find some though, quinine sulfate works much better and is super safe. I treated my tat, Nandus, and various catfish with this without any problems.
Industrial;4627808; said:
thank u how much do i put in per gallon?ick only seems seriouse on silver dollar but i dont want to take any chances
this is the salt/heat treatment from a sticky posted by Lupin. I used it, it worked great.
White Spot Disease
Synonyms:
Ich, Ick
Symptoms:
Early signs of white spot begin when fish flick themselves against rocks. They may also swimming in an odd behaviour as if they were trying to use the water to wash away an irritation. Some of the more common causes are stress, bad water conditions, live food that have been infected by the pathogens or already infected fish without quarantining it.
Description:
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and manifests as tiny white spots all over the fish. The spots are no larger than grains of salt. The wide host range of this parasite is its life cycle, and speed of multiplication especially in a tropical aquarium. When you see the white spot on your fish, it is already too late for those ich particles to be avoided.
The organisms, trophonts goes through a life cycle of a small white spot feeding on your fish which drops off to the floor of your tank and encases itself in a cyst called tomont. While encased in a cyst, it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms called theronts. The cyst then ruptures, thus releasing the theronts which seek out a host to feed into. They must locate a host within 24 hours otherwise they will die. Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatments.
Ich will appear if the fish is stressed. Note that it acts more as a 'contaminant' and is not part of the tank's ecosystem. Any new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks. Failing that will increase the risk of introducing diseases which wil affect other occupants. New fish are always possible carriers of diseases.
Treatment:
Salt
Instructions
Increase the temperature to at least 84-86 degrees as much as the fish can tolerate. Add aquarium or table salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 1-3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank equivalent to 0.1-0.3% depending on the tolerance level of your fish.
For basic procedures, here are the steps.
1. Dose one teaspoon per gallon of salt or equivalent to 0.1%.
2. After 12 hours and assuming the fish has tolerated it very wellso far, repeat step 1.
3. After another 12 hours, repeat step 1 again.
While waiting, it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the oxygen level. Over the first couple days, your fish will appear worse and will eventually recover as the treatment progresses. In most cases, ich will disappear on the sixth day. However, there is still a probability that some cysts have not yet ruptured so it is advisable to keep the treatment up for full ten days.
If you are not able to raise the temperature at all especially if you are dealing with fish that lack tolerance for temperature above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to extend the treatment although a good general guideline is to continue 7-10 more days of treatment right after the ich had seemingly disappeared.. At 85 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle of ich is quicker. The colder the temperature, the slower the life cycle thus the treatment will extend even longer than required.
Level of Tolerance
For bottom dwellers such as plecos and loaches, you may need to maintain the saline solution at 0.1-0.2% so it will not be detrimental to them although there have been few instances where some catfishes can tolerate as much as 0.3%.
Do make sure your fish can tolerate the elevated saline solution. If in doubt, be prepared to do a water change to relieve the fish of the osmotic stress caused by the salt. Try not to lose focus on the actual saline solution you already administered or you might end up overdosing the salt more than it was necessary.
Clown loaches and young oscars are notorious for getting ich after they are transferred to your tank. These and many others can tolerate salt. If you are unsure about your fish’s tolerance for salt, be sure to look for answers in a reference book or ask an expert.
A salt test kit available at your local fish store will help you get the exact dosage. Something in the range of .2%, is where you want to be.
Water Changes vs. Salt
Should a water change be necessary, make sure you redose the salt solution per the water volume replaced.
For example, a 10g needs 30 teaspoons at 3 teaspoons per gallon of water measurement. If you wish to change at least 50% of the water, then another 15 teaspoons of salt should be redosed to keep the saline solution effective against the parasites.
Teaspoon vs. Tablespoon Measurement
For those not familiar with the teaspoon = tablespoon conversion, a round heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons.
In Australian standard, a tablespoon is equivalent to four teaspoons so please adjust the necessary dosage as much as possible.
Plants Goners Or Not?
Unfortunately many plants do not do well with this salt treatment and may appear to wither but will usually come back in time once the salt treatment is over. Removing them to a salt free environment after a thorough rinsing may save them, however they must be kept at a high temperature or for an extended period of time. When the cyst breaks up in the plant holding tank, the small parasites will be unable to find a host and will die within 24-72 hours depending on the environmental conditions. Ich is easily transferred to other fish tanks so do not share nets, heaters and wet hands between infected and non infected tanks.
Mutual Relationship of Bacteria vs. Ich
Abstract explaining the presence of endosymbiotic bacteria within ich and bacteria with mutual relationship towards ich developing its infective capability can be found here.
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20210
Other Treatments:
Malachite Green, Formalin
Do NOT combine formalin and salt.
Check this list for contraindications of the above treatments.
http://monsterfishkeepers.com/forums...d.php?t=295289
Authors:
Lupin
Anythingfish
ChileRelleno
guppy
SkepticalAquarist.com
Tokis-Phoenix
Discussion Thread:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=20681
White Spot Disease
Synonyms:
Ich, Ick
Symptoms:
Early signs of white spot begin when fish flick themselves against rocks. They may also swimming in an odd behaviour as if they were trying to use the water to wash away an irritation. Some of the more common causes are stress, bad water conditions, live food that have been infected by the pathogens or already infected fish without quarantining it.
Description:
Ich is a protozoal infection that afflicts fish and can rapidly kill them, most often by damaging gill tissue. It is highly infectious and potentially lethal and manifests as tiny white spots all over the fish. The spots are no larger than grains of salt. The wide host range of this parasite is its life cycle, and speed of multiplication especially in a tropical aquarium. When you see the white spot on your fish, it is already too late for those ich particles to be avoided.
The organisms, trophonts goes through a life cycle of a small white spot feeding on your fish which drops off to the floor of your tank and encases itself in a cyst called tomont. While encased in a cyst, it divides into up to 2000 new mobile organisms called theronts. The cyst then ruptures, thus releasing the theronts which seek out a host to feed into. They must locate a host within 24 hours otherwise they will die. Only the mobile stage is vulnerable to treatments.
Ich will appear if the fish is stressed. Note that it acts more as a 'contaminant' and is not part of the tank's ecosystem. Any new fish should be quarantined for 2-4 weeks. Failing that will increase the risk of introducing diseases which wil affect other occupants. New fish are always possible carriers of diseases.
Treatment:
Salt
Instructions
Increase the temperature to at least 84-86 degrees as much as the fish can tolerate. Add aquarium or table salt (dissolved in water) at a ratio of 1-3 teaspoons of salt per gallon of water in your tank equivalent to 0.1-0.3% depending on the tolerance level of your fish.
For basic procedures, here are the steps.
1. Dose one teaspoon per gallon of salt or equivalent to 0.1%.
2. After 12 hours and assuming the fish has tolerated it very wellso far, repeat step 1.
3. After another 12 hours, repeat step 1 again.
While waiting, it does not hurt to add a powerhead or airstone to increase the oxygen level. Over the first couple days, your fish will appear worse and will eventually recover as the treatment progresses. In most cases, ich will disappear on the sixth day. However, there is still a probability that some cysts have not yet ruptured so it is advisable to keep the treatment up for full ten days.
If you are not able to raise the temperature at all especially if you are dealing with fish that lack tolerance for temperature above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to extend the treatment although a good general guideline is to continue 7-10 more days of treatment right after the ich had seemingly disappeared.. At 85 degrees Fahrenheit, the life cycle of ich is quicker. The colder the temperature, the slower the life cycle thus the treatment will extend even longer than required.
Level of Tolerance
For bottom dwellers such as plecos and loaches, you may need to maintain the saline solution at 0.1-0.2% so it will not be detrimental to them although there have been few instances where some catfishes can tolerate as much as 0.3%.
Do make sure your fish can tolerate the elevated saline solution. If in doubt, be prepared to do a water change to relieve the fish of the osmotic stress caused by the salt. Try not to lose focus on the actual saline solution you already administered or you might end up overdosing the salt more than it was necessary.
Clown loaches and young oscars are notorious for getting ich after they are transferred to your tank. These and many others can tolerate salt. If you are unsure about your fish’s tolerance for salt, be sure to look for answers in a reference book or ask an expert.
A salt test kit available at your local fish store will help you get the exact dosage. Something in the range of .2%, is where you want to be.
Water Changes vs. Salt
Should a water change be necessary, make sure you redose the salt solution per the water volume replaced.
For example, a 10g needs 30 teaspoons at 3 teaspoons per gallon of water measurement. If you wish to change at least 50% of the water, then another 15 teaspoons of salt should be redosed to keep the saline solution effective against the parasites.
Teaspoon vs. Tablespoon Measurement
For those not familiar with the teaspoon = tablespoon conversion, a round heap of tablespoon is equivalent to 3 teaspoons.
In Australian standard, a tablespoon is equivalent to four teaspoons so please adjust the necessary dosage as much as possible.
Plants Goners Or Not?
Unfortunately many plants do not do well with this salt treatment and may appear to wither but will usually come back in time once the salt treatment is over. Removing them to a salt free environment after a thorough rinsing may save them, however they must be kept at a high temperature or for an extended period of time. When the cyst breaks up in the plant holding tank, the small parasites will be unable to find a host and will die within 24-72 hours depending on the environmental conditions. Ich is easily transferred to other fish tanks so do not share nets, heaters and wet hands between infected and non infected tanks.
Mutual Relationship of Bacteria vs. Ich
Abstract explaining the presence of endosymbiotic bacteria within ich and bacteria with mutual relationship towards ich developing its infective capability can be found here.
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20210
Other Treatments:
Malachite Green, Formalin
Do NOT combine formalin and salt.
Check this list for contraindications of the above treatments.
http://monsterfishkeepers.com/forums...d.php?t=295289
Authors:
Lupin
Anythingfish
ChileRelleno
guppy
SkepticalAquarist.com
Tokis-Phoenix
Discussion Thread:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=20681
salt and water temp at 84 didnt do anything ick is getting worse othorone said to use mardel cletted cooper will i have to remove the salt with this or no?
Lupin;4635616; said:
1 tbs per ten gallons for the tank i will be going away this weekand and gone till wensday i would like to see some inprovement before i go will it be okay to mix mardel cletted cooper with the salt just a little he said it will take care of adult ick i dont want to lose my barracuda and silverdollar the ick is covering almost the entire barracuda s back and sides can this work i also bumped up water temp a tad
So add another teaspoon per gallon set and then the last set by the next 12 hours if your fish are able to tolerate it so far and keep the surface movements of your water vigorous. This will keep the oxygen level consistently high and switch lights off until treatment is complete (which won't be after 10 days prior to ich seemingly gone).
Lupin;4635679; said:
wont tolerate any more salt have to keep light on friday so i can feed them before i go i also have a uv steralizer but its not doing anything i know salt kills hatchlings but i need to kill the adult parasite my only ? is will it be okay to mix the above meds with the salt i will do a big water change to get rid of the salt if i have to i think i had this medication before for my barracuda and silver dollars and it had a specific dosage for tetra and tetra like fishes and it killed the ick within 3-4 days but the meds are gone now but will the cooper be fine with the low amount of salt in the tank?