Just wondering what every one thinks of my wet/dry filter witch is on my fresh water tank and the maximum size tank you think it could handle.
Ideas on my wet/dry setup
- Thread starter TEL
- Start date
It looks like it could handle alot. What is the estimated surface area of the bio media? That coupled with the flow rate will help determine the maximum tank size.
I can see potential clogging and ponding on your top coarse filter pad and/or wool resulting in overflow, a potential bottleneck with the 3 bulkheads between the sump tanks and lack of oxygen with your tall bio-tower. of course this is just a diagram so you may have accountd for these things.
Some suggestions;
Its poor use of bio cubes to use them sumberged since their open structure is designed for air flow.
If your bio-tower doesnt have air holes, run some airstones in the base to provide counter current aeration. Air rising and water falling means more gaseous contact time than if they are both falling.
Why dont you return the UV back into your bio filter to optmize pump usage? This will allow you to keep the sump running seperately if you ever ned to medicate the tank seperate.
I use bio-load rather than a tank size estimates so I am not going to suggest max tank size possible.
Some suggestions;
Its poor use of bio cubes to use them sumberged since their open structure is designed for air flow.
If your bio-tower doesnt have air holes, run some airstones in the base to provide counter current aeration. Air rising and water falling means more gaseous contact time than if they are both falling.
Why dont you return the UV back into your bio filter to optmize pump usage? This will allow you to keep the sump running seperately if you ever ned to medicate the tank seperate.
I use bio-load rather than a tank size estimates so I am not going to suggest max tank size possible.
You could use the return to the sump from the UV to power a FB filter or put it through a filter sock for more mechanical.
This is the sump http://www.aquaone.co.uk/marine_sump_filters.php. the top lid has a 50mm(2") hole for the water witch is bigger than the pipe going into it witch is (1") dia but maybe it could do with more holes or remove it all together. The corse pads are 380mm x 280mm x 20mm thick (15"x11"x1" ) and would take alot to clog up and I also try to clean the corse pad and change the wool every 2 or 3 weeks. and mabey the bio-cubes could do a better job under the bottom corse pad in the top box I only put them on the bottom so I don't loose all the good batteria if the power goes out for an extended amount of time.The uv is setup this way to utilize the excess pressure the tank dosent need. The lid on the 3rd box has a 2" hole in it where I medicate and refill the tank after water changes.When medicating the tank I turn off the uv.Hope this explains it a bit better and thanks for the suggestions.