Importance of pH for SA cichlids?

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Empyreal

Empyreal

Fire Eel
MFK Member
Sep 2, 2013
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Las Vegas, NV
So I decided to test my pH with my API test kit for the first time and was surprised to see that my tank water (as well as tap water) has a pH of 8. Now the fish I am currently keeping in my 120gal have done nothing but prospered - Oscar, redhook silver dollar, and endli bichir. Now the previous mentioned fish are most likely far removed from their native ancestors (at least in the case of the oscar and SD) which are used to more acidic water. But I was recently thinking of adding some SA fish like true parrots, etc. Would a pH of 8 have some detrimental long term health affections. I have been told the pH doesn't matter as long as it stays stable - but have you guys had a different experience? Thanks in advance!
 
Matching water chemistry is more important when dealing with wild fish. If I were you I would look into adding captive bred fish that will adapt to your water more readily and are less likely to suffer any long term negative effects due to pH. As for the true parrots you mention I would say most of the ones available are wild. If you can find some F1's I would say go for it. Although keeping a true parrot in that size tank with the current stock is another topic in and of itself. If you want more information on that aspect look up the thread I started on breeding true parrots awhile ago. Lots of good advice.



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I agree with the above, and know 2 people that have been successful breeding psittacus in water that originates from Lake Michigan, which is very close to your tap waters chemical makeup.
Many I know have had trouble breeding wild angels here though, and although I have always wanted Uaru fernandezyepezi, their survival in my water would be too much of a risk since they are only occasionally available, relatively expensive, and wild at that.
Here's a link to your tap water
http://www.lvvwd.com/assets/pdf/wqreport.pdf
 
TheBeardedFish07 said:
Matching water chemistry is more important when dealing with wild fish. If I were you I would look into adding captive bred fish that will adapt to your water more readily and are less likely to suffer any long term negative effects due to pH. As for the true parrots you mention I would say most of the ones available are wild. If you can find some F1's I would say go for it. Although keeping a true parrot in that size tank with the current stock is another topic in and of itself. If you want more information on that aspect look up the thread I started on breeding true parrots awhile ago. Lots of good advice.



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Click to expand...

Thanks I am going to look up that thread now. Are you saying adding a parrot would be too much for that size tank? If so please let me know your opinion - I am not one of those people who get defensive, I love to hear from those with more experience.
 
duanes said:
I agree with the above, and know 2 people that have been successful breeding psittacus in water that originates from Lake Michigan, which is very close to your tap waters chemical makeup.
Many I know have had trouble breeding wild angels here though, and although I have always wanted Uaru fernandezyepezi, their survival in my water would be too much of a risk since they are only occasionally available, relatively expensive, and wild at that.
Here's a link to your tap water
http://www.lvvwd.com/assets/pdf/wqreport.pdf
Click to expand...

I have read through that report and can't seem to get too much information from the chart - definitely can't find pH to make sure my reading was correct and it says nothing about nitrates. Either way - I know Vegas water is basic and very hard, which is a big downer since I particularly enjoy SA fish. Any suggestions on how I can get around this, or should I just try to keep fish that match my water?
 
I probably don't have too much more experience than you really so hopefully someone else offers their opinion too. I would start out with adding a single parrot and see how he does with the Oscar. The problem with keeping multiple parrots, especially in that size tank, is that when they reach a certain age and size they turn on each other until there is only usually one left. I currently have four parrots together in a 125 and I'm just now starting to see this. I have been constantly separating and reintroducing the fish with one another over the past couple of weeks. I'm still hoping I can get a pair out of this madness though....


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TheBeardedFish07 said:
I probably don't have too much more experience than you really so hopefully someone else offers their opinion too. I would start out with adding a single parrot and see how he does with the Oscar. The problem with keeping multiple parrots, especially in that size tank, is that when they reach a certain age and size they turn on each other until there is only usually one left. I currently have four parrots together in a 125 and I'm just now starting to see this. I have been constantly separating and reintroducing the fish with one another over the past couple of weeks. I'm still hoping I can get a pair out of this madness though....


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Click to expand...

I am only thinking of adding one
 
I found a link to a more readable report.
All municipal water depts. produce a similar yearly report, I believe all fish keepers should be aware of.
The report helps you understand what your personal tap water is all about.
To me the most important parameters are alkalinity, pH, nitrate, and conductivity.
alkalinity helps you determine the buffering capacity, at 130m/L you have fairly robust buffering capacity
pH can let you know if fish urine is overwhelming your biological filtration, your average is 7.8
if for example pH has dropped to 7.0 by your next water change, you may need to be more frequent
The average nitrate level of 0.5ppm tells you much the same info as pH, if nitrates rise exponencially there could be a problem
conductivity in the 900+/- range lets you know that fish you choose should be able to handle higher osmotic levels
http://www.lvvwd.com/assets/pdf/wq_summary_lvvwd.pdf
 
duanes said:
I found a link to a more readable report.
All municipal water depts. produce a similar yearly report, I believe all fish keepers should be aware of.
The report helps you understand what your personal tap water is all about.
To me the most important parameters are alkalinity, pH, nitrate, and conductivity.
alkalinity helps you determine the buffering capacity, at 130m/L you have fairly robust buffering capacity
pH can let you know if fish urine is overwhelming your biological filtration, your average is 7.8
if for example pH has dropped to 7.0 by your next water change, you may need to be more frequent
The average nitrate level of 0.5ppm tells you much the same info as pH, if nitrates rise exponencially there could be a problem
conductivity in the 900+/- range lets you know that fish you choose should be able to handle higher osmotic levels
http://www.lvvwd.com/assets/pdf/wq_summary_lvvwd.pdf
Click to expand...

Duane thanks for the awesome info! Can you please explain buffering capacity in more detail - I dont understand this at all?
 
Calcium (and other buffers) have the capacity to neutralize fish urine, alkalinity shows how much calcium and other buffers are available in your make up water to do that.
Because fresh water fish are constantly drinking and urinating, this is one of the major causes of deteriorating water quality, a high alkalinity helps prevent that, ie acidification.
Most people believe fish feces are the worst case scenario for aquariums, but I believe its the stuff you can't see, that's the biggest concern.
 
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