I'm thinking about building a canopy for my 120 however I want to do something a little different. So the more elaborate the better, I guess my question is if anybody owns or has seen anything along those lines I'd love to see some pictures or even just hear some of your ideas.
Input on a canopy design
- Thread starter Stang1
- Start date
One thing I learned when building my canopy is that try to use the lighter fly wood in stead of something heavy like masonite board or solid wood panes as they are heavy. I'd use solid wood only for the frame. I like having a lighter hood, easier to move about in case you need to take it off - you are talking about moving a 6' box here. Also, having a lighter hood gives me added assurance that I don't add that much more weight/pressure to my water filled tank.
I think your question is too vague. Can you specify the tank size, location (built-in, tall, low etc), FW or SW, planted (lots of candle power?), big fish or small (big fish need big openings), material (stainless, wood, glass etc), access requirements (twice daily feedings or automatic feeders?). Is heat a concern? How important is appearances?
On one built-in tank I fixed twin flourescents to the wall, and another two to the canopy. It has 3 access stages. First stage is for weekly access (small hinged front, small glass section to open, autofeeders the rest of the week). The 2nd stage for heavier maintenance has the canopy and front bulbs angle upwards 45 degrees. The 3rd stage, the canopy slides off and leaves a shell frame holding the back lights in place.
The tank I'm working on now will probably have a 5' stainless steel custom canopy, lined with programmable banks of Luxeon LEDs to simulate dusk, daylight and spot/accent lighting (if I can afford them ;~). Lots of light-power means lots of heat and the canopy must be designed with ventilation requirements in mind.
Another tank had a wooden box built, with a small compartment on one end
which hinged open for daily feeding. This was a heavy canopy, so feeding access just made more sense from the end and maintenance from the back (from another room).
Sometimes the canopy is just part of the stand, which comes up the tank sides to cabinets above. Glass tank covers and a piano-hinged wood panel which locks open at the front is all you need (lights are installed to the underside of the cabinets above).
Just a few ideas to ponder as applicable
cheers
On one built-in tank I fixed twin flourescents to the wall, and another two to the canopy. It has 3 access stages. First stage is for weekly access (small hinged front, small glass section to open, autofeeders the rest of the week). The 2nd stage for heavier maintenance has the canopy and front bulbs angle upwards 45 degrees. The 3rd stage, the canopy slides off and leaves a shell frame holding the back lights in place.
The tank I'm working on now will probably have a 5' stainless steel custom canopy, lined with programmable banks of Luxeon LEDs to simulate dusk, daylight and spot/accent lighting (if I can afford them ;~). Lots of light-power means lots of heat and the canopy must be designed with ventilation requirements in mind.
Another tank had a wooden box built, with a small compartment on one end
which hinged open for daily feeding. This was a heavy canopy, so feeding access just made more sense from the end and maintenance from the back (from another room).Sometimes the canopy is just part of the stand, which comes up the tank sides to cabinets above. Glass tank covers and a piano-hinged wood panel which locks open at the front is all you need (lights are installed to the underside of the cabinets above).
Just a few ideas to ponder as applicable
cheers
Well I'm mainly going for something visually pleasing has well as functional and my dimensions are 48x24x25. It is a FW tank so the lighting set-up is dual 48" 96 watt lamps. As for tank access I plan on having to large doors on the front of the canopy and space on the rear to provide clearance for my dual AC110s.
here is my design. I did it this way so i had access to the tank and so i could use regular flourecent lighting.
there is plexiglass siliconed in here so the lights stay dry and away from humidity
there is plexiglass siliconed in here so the lights stay dry and away from humidity
